Why such a short burn?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Just to make sure @deborita3 understands, packing the stove tight like that is something that is generally only done when its really cold out and you need lots of BTU's to hold the house temp...doesn't need to be that way every time. And if you are going to load that way you will need to do so on some hot coals, its really hard to get a good fire going if you pack it tight on a cold start up fire.
But loading with 5 logs criss cross is great way to load when the weather is warmer and a short hot fire is all you need.
Lower BTU wood can be used in warmer weather too...pine, poplar, soft maple, etc...save the oak, locust, hickory, etc, for the cold weather.
The more wood weight you put in the stove at one time (dry wood) the more heat you should get from the load (and the longer it should last too...assuming everything is working right)
 
  • Like
Reactions: deborita3
Just to make sure @deborita3 understands, packing the stove tight like that is something that is generally only done when its really cold out and you need lots of BTU's to hold the house temp...doesn't need to be that way every time. And if you are going to load that way you will need to do so on some hot coals, its really hard to get a good fire going if you pack it tight on a cold start up fire.
But loading with 5 logs criss cross is great way to load when the weather is warmer and a short hot fire is all you need.
Lower BTU wood can be used in warmer weather too...pine, poplar, soft maple, etc...save the oak, locust, hickory, etc, for the cold weather.
The more wood weight you put in the stove at one time (dry wood) the more heat you should get from the load (and the longer it should last too...assuming everything is working right)

Thanks for the information! Very helpful.
 
  • Like
Reactions: brenndatomu
Yes if the current chimney has those clearances then insulation is not required but still very desirable. The problem is that most chimneys even many in new construction dont have the required clearances.

The clay liners mean nothing in the equation. Once a stainless liner is installed that clay liner just becomes part of the masonry structure.

Yep, agree.
 
Yes if the current chimney has those clearances then insulation is not required but still very desirable. The problem is that most chimneys even many in new construction dont have the required clearances.

The clay liners mean nothing in the equation. Once a stainless liner is installed that clay liner just becomes part of the masonry structure.
Can the clay liner be stacked within a chimney with a 1" gap between the clay and the cinder blocks, bricks, etc., to get to code? Perhaps with an occasional support tied in for support?
 
Can the clay liner be stacked within a chimney with a 1" gap between the clay and the cinder blocks, bricks, etc., to get to code? Perhaps with an occasional support tied in for support?
No
 
Do I need to get it up to code?
Yes it is required by code for a reason. And the installers without question had a responsibility to bring it up to code
 
Do you have an idea how much it would cost?
No. But honestly you paid someone for a professional and code compliant install. I would make them bring it up to code
 
  • Like
Reactions: deborita3
My stove temp is at 600 and I am hearing a ticking sound behind the insert. What could this be?
Stoves and liners make noises as they expand and contract with temperature changes.
 
I get the most noise when its flaming real good and then I turn down the air. Popp popp crackity creek bing bang.
 
I didn't see anything about insulating the liner. Maybe I missed it.
R1003.18 gives the clearances exception 1 says if you dont have the clearances a ul 1777 liner installed to the manufacturer's specs for chimney contact with combustibles is permitted. The only way to get that rating is with insulation.
 
  • Like
Reactions: deborita3