Woodstock progress hybrid stove temp vs pipe temp
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bfitz3
Feeling the Heat
Looks like there are two ways to adjust it. I adjusted the ‘shoulder bolts’ as described about a minute in, but did so with a different procedure.
fire_man
Minister of Fire
weatherguy
Minister of Fire
My ash pan door seems tight after the paper test I did On it. My anti-burp hole has a small amount of ash that comes out of it onto the heat shields which is a little concerning. Another concern I still have is the 150-175 degree separation in the stove top and stove vent temperature. Woodstock seems to think that is about average but I seem to think it should be a greater separation especially when running it hot. I don't think a stove top temperature of 650 should have a vent temperature of 500. I guess time will tell. I'm only a month into burning this new stove with no really cold days yet to judge the true performance of it.
bfitz3
Feeling the Heat
Get a laser thermometer and monitor your nearby combustible temperatures. If they are approaching (whatever pyrolysis temperature is) then worry. If they are at or over that amount, make changes immediately. Perhaps someone here can put numbers to ‘ain’t nothing but a thing’ ‘worry’ and ‘stop burning now!’
I’m wondering how often you’re hitting 650. Is it a regular thing? Full load of wood? Big/small splits? Species? MC? Vent closed to what level? I’ve only seen 650+ a few times and only when reloading in a hot stove with a full load of wood, something I have yet to do this year. I don’t think I’ve touched 700. I tend not to need hot reloads until we hit 10 or lower for extended times...not just overnight. As you’re in Virginia, I’m guessing you aren’t needing the heat as much as some of us that are more climatically abused. What do you have to do to get the stove to run at, say, 500? 400? If you do that, does your house stay warm? Are you using the Woodstock supplied magnetic thermometer (mine wasn’t terribly accurate) When at full temp and fully closed down are you seeing no flames, getting flames off the wood itself, or just secondaries from the ‘roof’ of the firebox? Have you seen 700? More?
I know, a lot of questions. Just trying to understand/get ideas.
Woody Stover
Minister of Fire
No, I don't think the separation will be greater in your stove when running with the air open further and secondaries lit, since you are flushing more heat up the chimney faster. Different stove here, but if I have the air 1/4 open, the cat is glowing plus there's flame in the box, and the flue is definitely hotter. I'd have to compare between a .5 cat-only burn and a 1.0 cat-plus-flame burn, and take note of exactly how much hotter the flue is, but it is hotter.
Yeah, hard to believe he's running the stove that hard in VA. But maybe he has a huge house, or likes the house very warm, or...??
Same here. Different stove though. 16' stack, rear-vented into a tee, then flex liner to the top.
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bfitz3
Feeling the Heat
I’m not in the habit of replying to m own posts, but when I typed out “...running at 460 with...” I thought it seemed low. So, I performed a vinegar clean on the catalyst. Now, I’m running about 100 degrees hotter. As physics/thermodynamics/heat-transfer-properties are irrefutable, I say to everyone: keep your catalyst clean!
Relating more to the OP’s questions... even with the increase in stove-top temperature, my stove-pipe is still running about 50% of stovetop. (568 top, 273 pipe)
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