pipe temps 2.

I had the very same result. Bought a different brand of magnetic. Will see if its any better hopefully soon.

My IR verified accurate. Hit my thermostat and it was identical.

Yea, shoot the thermostat in your house with the IR.

Trey1979 said:

hit it?

2018 drolet ht2000

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As ludlow suggested compare to Tstat and than set your cooking oven on 350- check to see number after preheat

Made me check my $12 IR!
2 degrees off from my home therm reading at 70F. Good with that.
25 degrees low compared to my Condar stove top gauge. At 550f according to Condar and 525F on the IR. I am satisfied with that as well.

Pick up a BBQ probe type of thermometer so you can measure the actual flue temp INSIDE of the stove pipe instead of on the surface of it. Stove pipe surface temps measure way low compared to actual flue gas temps.

https://www.thermoworks.com/Smoke

begreen said:

BBQ thermometers do not have a high enough range for the peaks that flue temps can reach particularly on startup. One needs something that can read to at least 1000º and preferably higher.

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wow. I guess I didn't realize stoves had that high of flue pipe temps. I've been using one for 2-3 years now, but I don't see flue temps anywhere near as high as that.

begreen said:

BBQ thermometers do not have a high enough range for the peaks that flue temps can reach particularly on startup. One needs something that can read to at least 1000º and preferably higher.

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Tel-Tru LT225R is sold as a BBQ thermometer, but certainly not retricted to that. They come in different temp ranges, including 200-1000degF.

Mine is 10yrs old, they are still sold, easy to calibrate, simple to use 6in probe, and has a clean looking design, $22.

JRHAWK9 said:

wow. I guess I didn't realize stoves had that high of flue pipe temps. I've been using one for 2-3 years now, but I don't see flue temps anywhere near as high as that.

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Internal pipe temps 18” above stove shoukd be kept well below 1000 degrees, but have a therm that tells you when you are at 1000 or above is important so you can address and make changes immediately.

Sawset said:

Tel-Tru LT225R is sold as a BBQ thermometer, but certainly not retricted to that. They come in different temp ranges, including 200-1000degF.

Mine is 10yrs old, they are still sold, easy to calibrate, simple to use 6in probe, and has a clean looking design, $22.

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I was referring to the electronic digital ones, like I linked to above.

JRHAWK9 said:

wow. I guess I didn't realize stoves had that high of flue pipe temps. I've been using one for 2-3 years now, but I don't see flue temps anywhere near as high as that.

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DuraPlus Class A:
Designed for normal, continuous operation at 1000 degrees F flue gas temperatures, DuraPlus (5"-8" diameters) is subjected to rigorous and stringent HT requirements of the UL standard, including on hour at 1400 degrees F, plus three ten-minute chimney fire tests at 2100 degrees

The Oslo here frequently reaches 5-800deg internal stack temps. Right now it is sitting at 450deg, but earlier at startup this morning it was at 850deg for 10-20min or so.

Sawset said:

DuraPlus Class A:
Designed for normal, continuous operation at 1000 degrees F flue gas temperatures, DuraPlus (5"-8" diameters) is subjected to rigorous and stringent HT requirements of the UL standard, including on hour at 1400 degrees F, plus three ten-minute chimney fire tests at 2100 degrees

The Oslo here frequently reaches 5-800deg internal stack temps. Right now it is sitting at 450deg, but earlier at startup this morning it was at 850deg for 10-20min or so.

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yeah, I realize that, as I'm using Canadian ULC S-629 spec stuff which requires the chimney to withstand three -30- minute chimney fires at 2100°F.

I'm using ICC/Excel chimney
http://icc-chimney.com/en/excel#mc


That's nuts. I guess us furnace guys have much lower flue temps. I'm monitoring mine about 15" from the collar and very seldom do I see flue temps over 400°, when the Kuuma's computer is set on low. It cruises around the 300° area and will go as low as high 270's or so. I also use a barometric damper to regulate draft in which I installed a 6" OAK to it so instead of sending heated basement air up the chimney I'm sending cold outside air up it. No issues with creosote, as if you don't send smoke up the chimney there will be no creosote. I clean my chimney once a year and only get flyash.

Anyway, carry on. I just happened to see this thread and thought I could add something useful to the conversation by mentioning those electronic BBQ thermometers I use. I guess I was wrong.

A while ago I was reading up on Kuuma furnaces - interesting how they can run low stack temps, maintain very high efficiency, yet have very low emmissions. Thanks for the feedback. It's all interesting.
Also it seems preference for information can be had several different ways - pictures text or numbers, and digital, colored ranges, and dial types would cover most of that. Luckily we all can choose.

The thing about wood furnaces is that almost all of them have a huge heat exchanger in the exhaust stream designed to strip heat from the flue gasses to the minimum safe level. It’s like a huge magic heat device.

Wood stoves release full strength waste.