Summers Heat 50-SHSSW01 ?

Lowe's had this thing as their display model. It has a broken hinge, a few broken bricks, not sure if anything else is wrong or missing yet. I offered 200 and they said 225...

Anyone familiar with it? Have any advice other than seasoned wood? I registered for the warranty so will call them on Monday and ask what is covered.

I am wanting to save up for either a BK or Woodstock but that has to wait till 2020 or 2021... So for now I might be able to get rid of my 1980's stove...

ColdNorCal said:

If youre a vet they will discount another 10%. I have done it on returned/used items and clearance.

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Not a vet. I do have a Lowe's card that gave me 5% off.

ED 3000 said:

I'd snatch that up and put it in storage in the barn.

Did you research how much the replacement cost is for the broken hinge?

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It was 9:25pm (closing time of 10). Guy said I had to pick it up before closing as part of the deal. Said ok and ran home to get the truck...

I can buy from Englander and get 1 hinge for about 40ish shipped. Not sure about the bricks but those are not that much. I'm just curious on how it broke. I looked at this same unit a few months ago and it wasn't broken. Door looked good at quick glance.

Now I just need to find a way to unload it from my truck to look at the rest of it.

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Registered the product and that was easy. sent an email to customer service asking about the broken parts and haven't received a response yet. Tried calling the number and it goes to recording saying all customer service representatives are busy call back later and ends the call. Does anybody have a different contact for them?

1-800-245-6489
[email protected]

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I was finally able to get through but was on hold for a long time so had to hang up. I submitted a warranty claim (wanted to ask questions first) and they responded within a few hours saying they are sending a new brick and door hinge. Would have been nice for them to talk with me since I think there are other issues but it was nice to get such a speedy response and no hassle claim.

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Update:

They sent me two new door hinges earlier this year for the warranty. Finally got around to putting them on to do the break in fires in the driveway. Put the hinges on (no directions mind you) thought I had it lined up well. Closed fine but as soon as I closed the latch one hinge snapped... ok. They sent two and I only needed one so I Used the last one. Got it lined up best I could. Dollar bill test shows I can pull (though not easily) on one side. Good enough for test fires. 90* out and only 3ft of pipe but it worked with door open. Burned off lots of paint smell.

fast forward to this weekend. Outside temps 32-45. Inside temp 70-72. Underground Concrete house so I haven’t used heat yet but wanted to test unit out. I have not ran an OAK yet but did unhook pvc intake for furnace in the room over to allow fresh air to dump into furnace closet. Used propane torch to start top down burn. Smoke instantly started to go around the baffle and up the pipe! Left door cracked for a min or two to establish. No problems starting unit. Let started fire burn down to large coals andreloaded with large wedges of oak.

Once fire started to establish I started turning down air. After about 10 min found fire still going strong so I turned down some more. Had lots of fire and secondaries. About 10 minutes go by and I noticed fire is still running hot so I turned air all the way down. Fire continued to run hot (at this point I noticed that I was able to close handle more but it was already snug. This did help bring fire down some). By the time I went to bed the fire was winding down some and the room was up to 77.
I need to adjust the hinges some more but afraid of breaking them. I was surprised the air control didn’t work well. Otherwise it seems like a good unit.

anyone have suggestions on the hinges?

begreen said:

If the dollar bill pulls out with some resistance, then the gasket seal could be ok. The air control is probably ok too. Once the wood is heated up and outgassing readily, secondary combustion will be robust. The secondary air is not regulated by the air control. Next time try turning down the air sooner.

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I get that the secondary action will be robust. The problem was the firebox was full of fire, the stove top, and flue thermometer were running hot. The fire also burned down more quickly than expected for dry hardwood. It sat around 800 for most of the burn on the probe even with air down.

Edit: Just tested the seal again. All sides are snug except for the side with the hinge. Little resistance when pulling out dollar.

Just adjusted the door again and seems to seal better. Just afraid of the silly hinge breaking from stress. I wonder if I should have a metal shop make some out of steel? I’ll relight tonight and see how she does. It is double wall. Then 12’ of ICC Excell up to top. I was trying to keep stove pipe around 600 last night but it didn’t want to listen.

Finally got around to starting another fire after adjusting the door. Much better controlling the fire but still a bit hot. I can tell It will take me some time to adjust to this stove. I also need to get my infrared thermometer fixed so I can see which ST thermometer works. One says 650, the other says 550, and the probe says 675ish.

K-Mac said:

isnt that just comforting haha. been meaning to buy a second one for this very reason!

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problem is if you buy a second one and it is different than the first you dont know which one is correct...

I let a coworker use My infrared thermometer. Got it back and didn’t realize for a few days that the darn thing was out of calibration by a wide margin. No idea what he did to it but I can’t even use that thing to test.

Update on stove temp:

this stove has a nifty feature (AAC) that lets you, from a cold stove, set the air to medium or low but turn the air control CC to keep the air open till a pre-set temp. I had not tried using this but got to thinking why I had trouble controlling the flames. I found that if I have it in the low position and turn it CC to open it the thing gets stuck in that position. I have to push knob all the way back in (open) to be able to turn it. I paid attention to how I was closing it and I do slightly turn the knob as I pull it out.

This current burn I was careful in pulling out the knob and I have great secondary action with a darker firebox. Much different than the firebox full of fire I had.

Just to test I had the firebox ST at 450 and pipe at 450.Damper in low position. Turned knob CC all the way and it got stuck. Can’t turn it back at all till you push it to the open position then you can turn it.

I will contact The manufacturer to see if there is a fix.