Was there ever a convection only wood stove?

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Woody Stover said:
In the brochure, looks like there are a couple different options for the side shields? Does the one with the vertical slits tie in to the blower? https://www.lopistoves.com/TravisDocs/98800729.pdf
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Can't seem to find that in the brochure and not sure what you mean. But looks like the sides are shielded, double walled and the verticle slits just for convection. Two horizontal slits in the plate just below the top of the step top too.
 
Woodstock stoves don't have blowers or a blower option, but they are radiant as well as naturally convective. Some cabinet circulator stoves are fully convective.
 
Ancient_Warrior said:
Can't seem to find that in the brochure and not sure what you mean. But looks like the sides are shielded, double walled and the verticle slits just for convection. Two horizontal slits in the plate just below the top of the step top too.
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Oops, that was the 1750, sorry.

Screenshot_2019-01-30 98800729 pdf(1).png Screenshot_2019-01-30 98800729 pdf.png
 
Ancient_Warrior said:
So, my question is did anyone build pretty much convection only stoves 20 to 25 years ago?
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We installed our SeeFire wood stove in 1990. No blower and never needed one. It has side and rear shields with about a 1" air gap, firebox lined with brick, The stove is rated at 55,000 btuh, heats our 1500 sq ft house, and so long as the outside temp is -20F or above, keeps the house very comfortable at about 70F. Below -20F outside temp it becomes more difficult to maintain 70F, and temps start to fall into the 60's. At outside temp of -5 and higher the house gets too warm, and we need to damp the stove down and burn intermittently.

The last several days night lows have been in the mid -30F range, and this morning the temp was -40F at 5:00 am. We used supplemental electric heat during the night so that we could let the stove burn out accumulated coals and empty the ash, and the house was maintained at 62-63F. As soon as the stove heats up again, as I just restarted it, we will turn the electric off. By the way, the high today is forecast at -7F, yesterday high was -19F.
 
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The last several days night lows have been in the mid -30F range said:
I'm just very happy we don't have to deal with those kind of temps lol High yesterday was prob around 20F and it has been especially cold lately for this part of the country. We're supposed to be in the 60's this weekend!

I'll tell ya.. I like this new stove a lot and once I get it hot it tends to stay that way for awhile even just with coals. But.. Compared to my old stove it seems like it's taking me way too long to get it heated up and I'm not sure I understand why.. I tested a few pieces of wood and I'm getting from 16 to 24 readings on it with the meter that came with the new stove. I think it's dry enough. I never really had a problem with the old stove with same wood source. I've only been burning for 5 seasons and all that with the old (1996) stove in the picture in this thread. I know the first thing everyone says is wet wood and sure I've tried to burn it before and it sucks but I just don't think that's what's going on here. Maybe I'm just not loading the box up with enough wood to start. It's only my second day with this stove so I expect to have a bit of a learning curve. Today I just made a lot of smaller splits, prob 2 to 3 inches. I've been looking online trying to figure out the best way to use the bypass damper and the primary air adjustment but if you look hard enough you can find conflicting info on anything lol The way I understand it bypass is for starting fires, etc and primary air should be reduced once the fuel is burning well which slows things enough to produce secondary burn. I'm getting secondary burn but mainly only after I have a lot of coals and additional wood in there which is taking me a couple hours or so. This morning took me from 5 AM till like 6:30 to get the house from 57 to about 63. Eventually got 75 but it's just taking too long. In my mind I should be starting to get the place warmed up after 30 minutes to an hour (headed in the right direction I mean) but it ain't happening yet..

Don't expect an answer or solution.. just talking to myself kinda lol
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Ancient_Warrior said:
I tested a few pieces of wood and I'm getting from 16 to 24 readings
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16% is great, 24 is bad and will noticeably impact ease of starting and heat output. 20 or less should be good.
Ancient_Warrior said:
I'm not getting it that hot yet.. See below..Or above or somewhere..
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As long as you are meeting 'clearance to combustibles' requirements laid out in the manual, you should be OK. Never hurts to exceed those, of course..
Ancient_Warrior said:
ALMOST got that 1750 but decided on the bypass damper mainly..
Click to expand...
Good move.
 
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