Damper installation in liner?

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Its nice you were able to run straight. The ones I have done were not straight. I tried 1/4" drive socket u joints but that didn't work well so I found an all steel 1/4" drive flex joint that works well. Then I drilled and put cotter pins in any couplings welded a socket to the end of the damper rod and it worked well
 
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John B said:
The liner for this chimney is 8". I installed the damper on the side of the elbow which connects to the stove, but there were no clearance issues with the liner itself as I tested that as well prior to install. The damper was installed just above the connection to the stove.

I installed the damper so the control handle faced the front of the stove. To extend the linkage, I welded some 1/4" threaded rod to the damper handle just long enough to extend about 1" past the surround. I drilled a 1/4" hole in the surround for the linkage to pass through. I used threaded rod so I can easily remove the handle to take off the surround. I welded it together so that I wouldnt have any issue with it falling apart (pardon my welding skills, they are not very good)

View attachment 240179 View attachment 240180

I had an extra 6" damper from some old pipe I removed from another stove, so I cut the end of the handle off and welded it to a threaded rod joining nut.

View attachment 240181

Now I had a removable handle. I threaded a regular 1/4" nut on the rod first then installed the handle. I had marked the rod with nail polish so I could get the orientation of the external handle the same as the internal handle so we could be confident in the damper position. I used the smaller nut as a jam nut to hold it tight. With this setup the handle should not be able to slip out of position.

Here is the final look, I think it came out great.

View attachment 240182 View attachment 240183

Overall this was pretty easy and really it didnt take long. With this setup I couldnt be more satisfied with this stove!
Click to expand...
Fantastic, well done John, and thanks for the pictures.

Was the damper you used 8"?

Do you have plans for what you will do with it when cleaning the chimney? Can you just pop it out and pop it back in?

Again, really well done.
 
bholler said:
Its nice you were able to run straight. The ones I have done were not straight. I tried 1/4" drive socket u joints but that didn't work well so I found an all steel 1/4" drive flex joint that works well. Then I drilled and put cotter pins in any couplings welded a socket to the end of the damper rod and it worked well
Click to expand...
A universal joint. Good thinking, until you go to your set and can't find the 1/4" jointed socket.

Just kidding, I know you'd just buy that one piece.

You should start building these and selling them online, for inserts. Probably not a ton of dough to be made, but definitely an untapped market. And I'd say 99% of folks wouldn't be bothered with a home brew solution like you and John did.
 
Ed thanks for the comments. Im not concerned about cleaning, there is almost no buildup of creosote in the liner so I will do a once yearly cleaning top down. Shouldnt be an issue.
 
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ED 3000 said:
Fantastic, well done John, and thanks for the pictures.

Was the damper you used 8"?

Do you have plans for what you will do with it when cleaning the chimney? Can you just pop it out and pop it back in?

Again, really well done.
Click to expand...
You can clean right past a damper with a rotary cleaner
 
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John B, thanks for the pics and the details about your set up. I think I am going to try to do exactly what you did for my insert.
 
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