Seeking advice on best storage and drying technique

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Farenheit 451

New Member
Jan 26, 2019
49
Pittsburgh
hi all, I’ve explored some other threads on here which have been helpful. I’ve got 8 wooded acres so I’ll be buzzing all my own wood. I’ve got tons of variety and not a pro yet at identifying what I have. I’ve got some cherry and oak for sure but beyond that no idea (other than pine which I know is not for furnace burning).

1) any resources you can suggest on tree identification?

2) resources where I can educate myself on storage and stacking methods? I’ve seen things here I’d have not considered previously, like storing soft wood and hard wood separate and leaving gaps between the stacks. I’ve already cut so much that needs to be stacked I’m confident I’ve got at least 3 cords and probably more. So far I’ve been doing a semi temporary method of using cinder blocks and two 2x4 across and then stacking my split wood chest height so that it’s off the ground. I’ve covered these stacks with tarps but can see that water/snow still get on some of the wood despite my best efforts. How much does it matter that wood gets some rain on it?

I could probably ask more but will seem like rambling so I’ll wait to hear from you all. Thanks in advance!
 
Top cover your stacks.

Learn to listen to your wood.

It will keep you warm, if you do.
 
If I ever heat with wood again, I will get enough IBC cages to do the job right. Much less monkey motion moving wood around. Need a tractor with a 3 point hitch to put forks on.
 
Sounds like you're off to a good start. Whenever I'm driving around and spot a house with firewood I always take note on how they stack or store. Most of the time if there isn't a woodshed they're using pallets in some fashion. Just like your 2×4 method, pallets allow air to come up from below as well as through.
 
Tree ID, grab a branch in all seasons and get it identified. There are probably only 6 or so prominent species in your woodlot. At some point you'll be able to identify by some small clue and nothing else. Pennsylvania - after this year most will say get it covered. You'll probably go through a bunch of methods to get to where you feel its right. The final stage is often some type of leanto, shed or garage. All work. All have drawbacks or plusses.

Attached is my inside garage setup. 1-1/2 conduit secured at the top and bottom with 2x4s, drilled to match the conduit. Cement anchor to the floor. Drill the ceiling so the conduit can be raised then pulled out for summer. Wire run between to keep from bowing out. 3cord storage, then free to use for the lawn tractors etc, then back to wood again in Sept. Check my avatar, a similar setup outside but with fence posts on the ends.
 

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If wood is your primary heat or your going to be burning alot. You should put up a wood shed. Wood sheds are great to dry wood in as long as it is facing south, is up off the ground and is vented so the summer winds will pass through. Putting your wood in a shed is a one and done deal meaning that once its in there your not babysitting it for the next 2 or 3 years. You can divide your wood shed into any size bin that you want for example if you do a 30ft shed you can do 2.. 10ft sections and 2.. 5ft sections. You can do a bin for all oak somthing for cherry a bin for maple.. ect..
Putting your wood in a shed will guarantee that it stays dry and will remain dry untill you need it.. tarps blow, rip, age when the sun beats down in them.. its not raining so today you need to take the tarp off.. 3 days from now its going to rai so you have to retarp it again and if you forget.. you end up with wet wood .. lots of people that just have stacks out side struggled with wet damp wood.. heres a.pic of wood that never needs a tarp and is always dry. Notice there is snow on the roof, ground and none on the wood
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You can totally burn pine as long as it's dry. My primary firewood is spruce and Balsam fir, but theat's basically pine. So far I have tarped stacks on pallets and a few DIY racks. I do have a wood shed, but it's small and full of my tools currently. I plan on building something better this coming summer, probably a pole shed.
 
If wood is your primary heat or your going to be burning alot. You should put up a wood shed. Wood sheds are great to dry wood in as long as it is facing south, is up off the ground and is vented so the summer winds will pass through. Putting your wood in a shed is a one and done deal meaning that once its in there your not babysitting it for the next 2 or 3 years. You can divide your wood shed into any size bin that you want for example if you do a 30ft shed you can do 2.. 10ft sections and 2.. 5ft sections. You can do a bin for all oak somthing for cherry a bin for maple.. ect..
Putting your wood in a shed will guarantee that it stays dry and will remain dry untill you need it.. tarps blow, rip, age when the sun beats down in them.. its not raining so today you need to take the tarp off.. 3 days from now its going to rai so you have to retarp it again and if you forget.. you end up with wet wood .. lots of people that just have stacks out side struggled with wet damp wood.. heres a.pic of wood that never needs a tarp and is always dry. Notice there is snow on the roof, ground and none on the woodView attachment 241671
How do you prevent rain and snow from getting into that kind of setup you have pictured? Seems like it would be easy for it to get in there.
 
You can totally burn pine as long as it's dry. My primary firewood is spruce and Balsam fir, but theat's basically pine. So far I have tarped stacks on pallets and a few DIY racks. I do have a wood shed, but it's small and full of my tools currently. I plan on building something better this coming summer, probably a pole shed.
I had no idea you could burn pine?! I thought I’ve seen everywhere folks condemning pine as too sappy to burn. Does it increase creosote build up or something? Great to know cuz I just dropped 4 120 foot spruces and was basically gonna store them for bonfires and that’s about it.
 
Pine will burn ok if you season it correctly. Ask the guys in the west, they primarily burn pine. Its not worth it in the north east with all the hard woods around. Why work just as hard or harder for less BTU's and sap all over your hands.
 
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Certainly evergreen trees are less dense and won't burn as long, but they season twice as fast.
 
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How do you prevent rain and snow from getting into that kind of setup you have pictured? Seems like it would be easy for it to get in there.

The roof overhang in the front is like 18 inches and in the back is like 10 inches.. unless its totally raining sideways the wood stayes dry..you may get a little rain/ snow on the bottom if the wind is 30+mph
As far as stacking goes. Dont over think it just stack it as you normally would.
Regarding all of the different woods available. Theres a btu chart on the internet, look fot the wood with the most BTUs available. Separate your wood, keeping woods like oak together, maple together. Split all different sizes.. small, medium, large
 
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I had no idea you could burn pine?! I thought I’ve seen everywhere folks condemning pine as too sappy to burn. Does it increase creosote build up or something? Great to know cuz I just dropped 4 120 foot spruces and was basically gonna store them for bonfires and that’s about it.

The pine debate starts again!

I have been using quite a bit of pine the last few years. As long as it is dry (and it dries fast) it does well to heat up fast. Of course, because it burns so hot so fast contributed to its bad reputation. Conceivably it could ignite creosote build up in the chimney, but if you clean the flue frequently this shouldn't be a problem. I mix my pine in with hardwoods when loading the wood stove. I heard a horror story thus year about the stove glass shattering while a full load of only pine was in the stove. Too hot.
 
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20171129_161628.jpg
I build racks out of pallets
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Screwed together with torx head screws. I get the 4x4 beams free off craigslist, and use them to tie each rack together, and attach the roofing to.
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20190212_172704.jpg
scrap wood is attached to the beam and supports each seam in the roofing. Rain, snow and leaves just run right off, and only the very ends of the splits actually ever get wet.
Unless wood is in contact with the ground, it won't absorb water, which is why my base pallets are on blocks off the ground, which also encourages airflow all around the stacks.
Currently I'm ahead on my splitting, so I refill each rack as soon as it is emptied.
When I was filling them for the first time, I split right next to the rack I was filling
20171211_113100.jpg
you're fortunate to have your wood lot, I'm in a city, so I have to scrounge it all
20180402_151529.jpg
I've found it's easier to split at the tree
20180324_180721.jpg
and stack at home, instead of bringing rounds home and splitting at the rack
20190128_164303.jpg

I have about 15 cords racked, the rest goes on pallets between a couple racks until I can rack it.
I picked up the old tonneau cover for free, it keeps the rain and snow off the splitter
20190128_164247.jpg

The best part is that my only cost is for screws, and roofing. I cruise past the metal roofing whenever I visit the hardware store, I look for buckled cracked and split roofing, and get it at a discount
 
The pine debate starts again!

I have been using quite a bit of pine the last few years. As long as it is dry (and it dries fast) it does well to heat up fast. Of course, because it burns so hot so fast contributed to its bad reputation. Conceivably it could ignite creosote build up in the chimney, but if you clean the flue frequently this shouldn't be a problem. I mix my pine in with hardwoods when loading the wood stove. I heard a horror story thus year about the stove glass shattering while a full load of only pine was in the stove. Too hot.
How often should one clean a chimney? Is it advised that only is done by a chimney sweep or are there ways the average Joe can do it well enough between professional cleanings?

Interesting about the full load of pine causing the glass to break, I’ve been reading a lot on here since it was recommended on this thread that “pine is fine” which is great. I wonder how the guys out west keep the firebox cool enough if they burn primarily or exclusively pine?
 
How often should one clean a chimney? Is it advised that only is done by a chimney sweep or are there ways the average Joe can do it well enough between professional cleanings?

Interesting about the full load of pine causing the glass to break, I’ve been reading a lot on here since it was recommended on this thread that “pine is fine” which is great. I wonder how the guys out west keep the firebox cool enough if they burn primarily or exclusively pine?
Pine is mostly a problem if you burn it unseasoned, creating lots of creosote in the first place. Usually these are the same people who burn everything unseasoned, so they have lots of creosote.
I have some mixed in with the rest of my wood, and I only sweep once a year. Never had a chimney fire.
The burners out west just have to burn more wood per season, especially at higher altitudes
 
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View attachment 241703 I build racks out of palletsView attachment 241704
Screwed together with torx head screws. I get the 4x4 beams free off craigslist, and use them to tie each rack together, and attach the roofing to. View attachment 241705 View attachment 241706 scrap wood is attached to the beam and supports each seam in the roofing. Rain, snow and leaves just run right off, and only the very ends of the splits actually ever get wet.
Unless wood is in contact with the ground, it won't absorb water, which is why my base pallets are on blocks off the ground, which also encourages airflow all around the stacks.
Currently I'm ahead on my splitting, so I refill each rack as soon as it is emptied.
When I was filling them for the first time, I split right next to the rack I was filling View attachment 241707you're fortunate to have your wood lot, I'm in a city, so I have to scrounge it all
View attachment 241708 I've found it's easier to split at the tree
View attachment 241709 and stack at home, instead of bringing rounds home and splitting at the rackView attachment 241710
I have about 15 cords racked, the rest goes on pallets between a couple racks until I can rack it.
I picked up the old tonneau cover for free, it keeps the rain and snow off the splitter View attachment 241711
The best part is that my only cost is for screws, and roofing. I cruise past the metal roofing whenever I visit the hardware store, I look for buckled cracked and split roofing, and get it at a discount
Wow thanks that’s helpful especially with the pics!

You have a nice setup there, shame you have to live in the city, unless of course that’s where you want to be ;) I recently moved to my cabin in the woods and learning all this stuff as I go. Hoping to greatly reduce my reliance on anyone and get as much “off grid” as I reasonably can. If I weren’t in the north east I’d be looking into solar but my location just isn’t worth it.

Pallets were what I had considered to put up on cinder blocks at least for starters as I’m not a skilled handyman yet but hope to pick up some of those skills. Thanks again :)
 
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View attachment 241703 I build racks out of palletsView attachment 241704
Screwed together with torx head screws. I get the 4x4 beams free off craigslist, and use them to tie each rack together, and attach the roofing to. View attachment 241705 View attachment 241706 scrap wood is attached to the beam and supports each seam in the roofing. Rain, snow and leaves just run right off, and only the very ends of the splits actually ever get wet.
Unless wood is in contact with the ground, it won't absorb water, which is why my base pallets are on blocks off the ground, which also encourages airflow all around the stacks.
Currently I'm ahead on my splitting, so I refill each rack as soon as it is emptied.
When I was filling them for the first time, I split right next to the rack I was filling View attachment 241707you're fortunate to have your wood lot, I'm in a city, so I have to scrounge it all
View attachment 241708 I've found it's easier to split at the tree
View attachment 241709 and stack at home, instead of bringing rounds home and splitting at the rackView attachment 241710
I have about 15 cords racked, the rest goes on pallets between a couple racks until I can rack it.
I picked up the old tonneau cover for free, it keeps the rain and snow off the splitter View attachment 241711
The best part is that my only cost is for screws, and roofing. I cruise past the metal roofing whenever I visit the hardware store, I look for buckled cracked and split roofing, and get it at a discount

I like the ramp you put on the splitter. I was looking at a set of ramps my tractor dealer has, 2,000 lbs rated each. I can use them for a ton of stuff.
 
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I burn nothing but Pine in central Montana at 5,000 ft. elevation. It is all dead from Pine Bark Beetle, so no worries about seasoning. I control the heat in my old non-EPA stove by putting one split at a time in. I carry a small kitchen timer set at one hour to remind myself to throw another split in. I am retired and around the house most all the time.
100_2040.JPG
 
I burn nothing but Pine in central Montana at 5,000 ft. elevation. It is all dead from Pine Bark Beetle, so no worries about seasoning. I control the heat in my old non-EPA stove by putting one split at a time in. I carry a small kitchen timer set at one hour to remind myself to throw another split in. I am retired and around the house most all the time.View attachment 241725
So a full load of pine only gets you about an hour? How big is your firebox? I’ll probably mix with my other wood but so glad to know all that line I took down isn’t junk!
 
I can get usually 3-5 hrs depending on the size of the splits with spruce and fir with my tiny Mosro stove. My firebox is like 0.84 cuft.
 
I can get usually 3-5 hrs depending on the size of the splits with spruce and fir with my tiny Mosro stove. My firebox is like 0.84 cuft.
Oh that’s not bad at all for a small firebox. When my Progress Hybrid is finally installed I believe it’s 2.6 cubic ft. Based on what others said though I will probably not load the entire firebox full of pine only just to be mindful of the glass front. But who knows, these newer gen models are supposed to be pretty versatile with the cats and being able to control temps.
 
So a full load of pine only gets you about an hour? How big is your firebox? I’ll probably mix with my other wood but so glad to know all that line I took down isn’t junk!

No, one split gets me one hour. I get a bed of coals, then put only one split in. It takes about one hour to turn that into coals, and then I put one more split in, and so on. I have a very large firebox.
 
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Oh that’s not bad at all for a small firebox. When my Progress Hybrid is finally installed I believe it’s 2.6 cubic ft. Based on what others said though I will probably not load the entire firebox full of pine only just to be mindful of the glass front. But who knows, these newer gen models are supposed to be pretty versatile with the cats and being able to control temps.

I only have glass issues if I turn the draft down too quick and the load smolders without my notice. Sometimes I start fires with birch bark and it can leave some soot on the glass, but the black soot burns off later, and the dark spots only happens if the birch bark falls into the glass. Seasoned soft woods are just less dense than seasoned hard woods. My Balsam fir splits burn hot and fast, but if I pack the firebox well I'll have nice coals in the morning, especially if I use a couple of Bio bricks, but I don't like the way they coal up anyway. A friend gave me some seasoned birch, but it got soaked over the summer and then froze, so I'm drying it out by the stove. I just got a hydraulic splitter and that has improved my life.
 
No, one split gets me one hour. I get a bed of coals, then put only one split in. It takes about one hour to turn that into coals, and then I put one more split in, and so on. I have a very large firebox.

I do this with my tiny stove when it's cloudy but not super cold. When it's a sunny day I just run a load of fir in the morning and that carries me through the day regardless of outside temp.