Seeking advice on best storage and drying technique

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Farenheit 451 said:
I had no idea you could burn pine?! I thought I’ve seen everywhere folks condemning pine as too sappy to burn. Does it increase creosote build up or something? Great to know cuz I just dropped 4 120 foot spruces and was basically gonna store them for bonfires and that’s about it.
Click to expand...

Telling people that you burn pine is an excellent strategy for finding out who knows what they're talking about vs. ignorant idiots.

Don't listen to the ignorant idiots and you'll do fine.

https://www.chimneysweeponline.com/hosoftwood.htm

2nd: Listen to Woodsplitter and build yourself a good woodshed.

Good luck!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Lone_Gun
I have my chimney cleaned and inspected each fall and so far so good. In the past I've burned one of those creosote cleaning logs, but I don't know if I really needed to.

I think you and I are fairly close to one another (I'm right on the Maine border) and so there is a ton of pine all over the place. Nothing wrong with cutting, splitting and stacking the stuff.
 
Farenheit 451 said:
How often should one clean a chimney? Is it advised that only is done by a chimney sweep or are there ways the average Joe can do it well enough between professional cleanings?

Interesting about the full load of pine causing the glass to break, I’ve been reading a lot on here since it was recommended on this thread that “pine is fine” which is great. I wonder how the guys out west keep the firebox cool enough if they burn primarily or exclusively pine?
Click to expand...

Average Joe can do it fine just by buying the specific brush. I would not spend money on a chimney sweep unless you got some kind of crazy steep, tall roof. How often depends on how much you burn, how hot the fires are, etc. You could try once a year to start and see if it's good enough. Including removing the flue cage, getting a ladder out, mine takes maybe 15 minutes a year.
 
Tree ID. All of the basic books seem good to me. I use one called Michigan Trees by Burt Barnes and Warren Wagner. It is applicable to everything east of the Mississippi and north of the Ohio (Including PA and New England).

Besides your book, walk your area with a friend who knows a lot and keep pointing at trees until you can guess them without help.

The basics: Maple and ash have opposite branching. Everything else doesn't. Red maple has big red buds this time of year; sugar maple doesn't. The learning device is MAD -- maple, ash, and dogwood have opposite branching.

Oak is the best overall firewood. Within oak I think red oak is the best. It also makes great kindling. White oak is next best to me. Red oak bark has what we call ski trails running vertical. White oak bark is whitish and kind of flaky looking. White oak has rounded leaves; red oak pointed leaves.

Hickory is dense and burns hot. Doesn't kindle that quick. I use it after the first hour of a fire, combined with oak.

Maple and ash are good. Black locust can be good, when available.

Tulip poplar and black cherry season quickest. 6-7 months is doable with cherry. They're decent. Tulip poplar has a unique leaf, and you'll probably find them at the base in fall. Black cherry has what we call burnt potato chip bark -- black/dark grey, smallish leaves. Reddish wood when split.

Oak can take 24-36 months to season, even in a sunny, breezy place. To me, the key with wood is put it in a sunny, breezy place. If you wish, the top row of wood can be the cover. That is what I do, just because it's simpler.
 
I like pallets for stacking wood; you can pick often get them free from various stores, craigslist, etc. Then you don't have to mess with cinder blocks and 2x4, and you can use the 2x4's for other projects.

As other's have said, you can burn anything (if dry/seasoned), but I don't typically burn pine/soft wood or poplar. I have enough walnut, locust, maple, etc. available. In a lot of areas, pine is all there is and it does fine.

As far as chimney cleaning, that's personal preference. Is your chimney easily accessible or are you going to be on a 36 ft ladder? I clean the chimney in the shop, hire someone for the chimney on the house. I use the shop stove often, but only burn in the house when it's bitter cold; sometimes only once every couple of years. I'll clean the shop chimney once/twice a year, but only clean the house chimney in the spring after we use it the previous winter.

There are post here that talk about moisture meters. You may want to get one. Drying wood can be confusing sometimes. Different species dry differently, and the same species can dry differently from year to year. Here in SE Pa. we had an awfully wet year. I'm sure the weather slowed down the drying process. The only way to know for sure is to bring wood inside to warm to room temperature, the split it, then measure the moisture. It sounds like a pain, but it'll save a lot of aggravation. Good luck! (Sorry this is long winded!) Curt
 
For chimney cleaning: look at a sooteater. Rotary brush that fits on your electric drill.

For burning pine: adjust the air based on temperatures (stovetop, catalyst, and/or flue gas) to keep the fire from getting away from you. Same as with hardwoods
 
Farenheit 451 said:
hi all, I’ve explored some other threads on here which have been helpful. I’ve got 8 wooded acres so I’ll be buzzing all my own wood. I’ve got tons of variety and not a pro yet at identifying what I have. I’ve got some cherry and oak for sure but beyond that no idea (other than pine which I know is not for furnace burning).

1) any resources you can suggest on tree identification?

2) resources where I can educate myself on storage and stacking methods? I’ve seen things here I’d have not considered previously, like storing soft wood and hard wood separate and leaving gaps between the stacks. I’ve already cut so much that needs to be stacked I’m confident I’ve got at least 3 cords and probably more. So far I’ve been doing a semi temporary method of using cinder blocks and two 2x4 across and then stacking my split wood chest height so that it’s off the ground. I’ve covered these stacks with tarps but can see that water/snow still get on some of the wood despite my best efforts. How much does it matter that wood gets some rain on it?

I could probably ask more but will seem like rambling so I’ll wait to hear from you all. Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
1) If you have Ash trees they seem to season the fastest when considering hardwoods. IF stacked North/South with full sun you will likely only need 1 year to season or less if you top cover. All other hardwoods take a little longer some 2 years or more depending on conditions.

2) Don't burn wet wood and let it season to 20% or lower.

3) Build a solar kiln if you want to season quicker (tons of info here and on google)
 
Random thoughts . . .

Tree identification: I learned most of the local tree species when I took a shop class back in junior high in the early 1980s. My recommendation for someone learning today would be to see if there is a local cooperative extension that may have a booklet or brochure or the local library may have a book you can take out on loan. Hooking up with a friend who knows trees is also a possibility . . . or simply take some photos of the tree with its bark and leafs and post here and you will get a response.

Wood storage: I use pallets and stack my wood outside for the first year or two. After that the wood is moved into my woodshed where it seasons for another year or two (or six). If I didn't have a woodshed or if I was limited on space and seasoning time I would top cover my woodstacks outside using metal roofing, an old pool liner cut up in strips, etc.

Pine: Pine is fine. I burn it all of the time . . . mostly in the Spring and Fall . . . but it's a great wood to get a fire going or when you're just hanging around the house and don't need a long burning fire. In fact I pretty much burn any wood that I get my hands on . . . other than painted wood, pressure treated wood and petrified wood. I have my "favorites" . . . oak, beech, sugar maple, etc. . . . but I try not to discriminate when it comes to burning wood . . . it's all BTUs to me.

Chimney cleaning: Unless you have a strange set up it's rather easy to sweep your own chimney. I am fortunate as my set up allows me to sweep my chimney from the ground in literally 10 minutes. Most any hardware store will have the brush and rod sets you would need to sweep your chimney. I personally like the poly brush vs. steel brush for sweeping.
 
  • Like
Reactions: SpaceBus
firefighterjake said:
Random thoughts . . .

Tree identification: I learned most of the local tree species when I took a shop class back in junior high in the early 1980s. My recommendation for someone learning today would be to see if there is a local cooperative extension that may have a booklet or brochure or the local library may have a book you can take out on loan. Hooking up with a friend who knows trees is also a possibility . . . or simply take some photos of the tree with its bark and leafs and post here and you will get a response.

Wood storage: I use pallets and stack my wood outside for the first year or two. After that the wood is moved into my woodshed where it seasons for another year or two (or six). If I didn't have a woodshed or if I was limited on space and seasoning time I would top cover my woodstacks outside using metal roofing, an old pool liner cut up in strips, etc.

Pine: Pine is fine. I burn it all of the time . . . mostly in the Spring and Fall . . . but it's a great wood to get a fire going or when you're just hanging around the house and don't need a long burning fire. In fact I pretty much burn any wood that I get my hands on . . . other than painted wood, pressure treated wood and petrified wood. I have my "favorites" . . . oak, beech, sugar maple, etc. . . . but I try not to discriminate when it comes to burning wood . . . it's all BTUs to me.

Chimney cleaning: Unless you have a strange set up it's rather easy to sweep your own chimney. I am fortunate as my set up allows me to sweep my chimney from the ground in literally 10 minutes. Most any hardware store will have the brush and rod sets you would need to sweep your chimney. I personally like the poly brush vs. steel brush for sweeping.
Click to expand...

I just ordered a few canvas tarps after getting one at true value. What a great thing. Definitely more expensive, but much more durable and long lasting. I cover my tractor with the one I bought at TV. I ordered two canvas tarps on Amazon from a seller that offers 60 different size canvas tarps. For my outdoor wood stacks I plan on building covered racks with the canvas tarps and keeping the most seasoned wood in the two small sheds I have.
 
my chimney is three stories tall, but my roof is a hip roof, and there is an attic hatch way built in so the only ladder is a simple one from the attic floor to the hatch, no taller than an six foot step ladder. really nice, and something I will insist on in any home I might build.
Sweeping is interesting for the view, but not very challenging
 
I burn plenty of pine here in Southern NH, its of them come down in winter storms and people don't want them. If I see a "FREE WOOD" sign it's almost always for pine.
 
Get it way up off the ground. On pallets, that are up on cinder blocks. Pallets rot quick right on the ground, and I hate rotting pallets. Plus the wet of the ground goes up into your wood if there isn't a good space underneath. You can double stack on pallets, about the right width. Don't stack wider. I leave enough room in between rows to run the lawnmower down.

Do it in the open where wind can get at it. If possible orient so prevailing winds blow against the end of the stack. And not into the ends of the wood. (That is 90° to what a lot do).

Cover but just cover the top only.

That's it.

(Assuming you're not building woodsheds, that is....)
 
maple1 said:
Get it way up off the ground. On pallets, that are up on cinder blocks. Pallets rot quick right on the ground, and I hate rotting pallets. Plus the wet of the ground goes up into your wood if there isn't a good space underneath. You can double stack on pallets, about the right width. Don't stack wider. I leave enough room in between rows to run the lawnmower down.

Do it in the open where wind can get at it. If possible orient so prevailing winds blow against the end of the stack. And not into the ends of the wood. (That is 90° to what a lot do).

Cover but just cover the top only.

That's it.

(Assuming you're not building woodsheds, that is....)
Click to expand...
I wish I had gotten my stacks higher off the ground. I underestimated the snow. All of my racks are going to have to change significantly, but at least I know what to do now.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

E
To Cover or Not To Cover?
Replies
33
Views
5K
The Wood Shed
TheElementalCashew
TheElementalCashew
Ctwoodtick
Abbreviated sweeping of Jotul 550
Replies
0
Views
587
The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces
Ctwoodtick
Ctwoodtick
V
How to best stack wood in 8x12 shed
Replies
34
Views
4K
The Wood Shed
Ashful
Ashful
John E. Law
Hearthstone Manchester review first 30 days
Replies
14
Views
1K
HearthStone
velocity1
V
D
Helping me size my drolet stove(newbie) LONG;)
Replies
0
Views
491
SBI: Century,Drolet,Osburn,Valcourt,Englander
Dannyj
D
Top Bottom
Back