BK Ashford 30 Install

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Warm ambient temperatures are not as big a deal as you may think. We routinely burn in the 60s with a 12' chimney. Works the same way as when it's 10 degrees. It's way more of a problem when the clothes dryer is running.
A 20dF change in outside temp makes very little difference when your chimney is running 500dF, but it can play hell when you’re trying to start a cold stove.
 
Yes, even 15º can make a difference. I see a notable change when cold starting if it's 40º vs 55º with a straight up, interior 20' flue system.
 
Warm ambient temperatures are not as big a deal as you may think. We routinely burn in the 60s with a 12' chimney. Works the same way as when it's 10 degrees. It's way more of a problem when the clothes dryer is running.

Stop measuring stove top temperatures. The cat underneath the stove top can be 1500 degrees whether the stove is on high or on low.
I'm just trying to give you an idea of the stove heat output and temperature. What do you prefer to use? Blaze King catalyst probe measurement range, stove top temp, stove side temp, flue temp, tstat setting?

This flashback or whatever the term is was not during startup. It started up and drafted great with no smoke spillage. It was about 2 hours in after the stove had reached temp, tstat reduced air to no flame for about 30 min then puffing occurred when tstat increased air as the flames were re-igniting. Remember that I have a wall exit but about a 23ft chimney far over BKs recommended height and draft.
 
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Mine does those flashbacks or whatever too. Unlike most stoves, these cat stoves are designed to often run with no flames so it is likely that the swing in the thermostat setting will put the firebox in and out of active flame combustion. Every time the smoldering fuel regains flames there will be a flashback of some magnitude. At least that’s what I see through the stained glass!

To measure stove temps you can watch the room temperature climb. Flue temperatures are a pretty decent indicator of output level. You’ll end up using just the thermostat setting when you get used to the stove.
 
On my Jotuls, the backpuffs used to push smoke out the air inlets. It only occurred on my shorter chimney, ever the taller chimney, I was running two of the same stove.
 
Are the puffbacks strong enough that they push smoke out of the pipe joints?

No, my install is good. A tight door gasket, tight outside air connection. All vertical flue system with tight fitting components and remember, this may be important, there is no smoke in my flue but just clear “exhaust”. These flashes happen when everything is hot and clean.

We can often hear the wuff and then hear the tick tick tick of the flue heating up. But mostly it’s the flash that you notice.

Totally different than a noncat that by design has lots of flames during these early stages of the burn. First few hours.
 
Stop measuring stove top temperatures.
Whachoo talkin' 'bout, Willis? We're stove nerds, we're not gonna stop measuring anything! ;lol
 
Whachoo talkin' 'bout, Willis? We're stove nerds, we're not gonna stop measuring anything! ;lol

I tried measuring them too. Just don’t try to run your stove (cat bk) by the info.
 
I took away the STT from each one long time ago.
 
Ok, I think I just didn't warm up the stove enough and loaded the small load weird. I let it warm up a good 45min before touching the tstat tonight. It has gone to no flame...sort of. There are tons of secondaries burning right at the red hot cat. Pretty cool to watch. So no weird flashback going on at all.

I do not smell any creo smell exiting around the collar area, but there is a good amount of some kind of curing smell from the initial warm up. Lets see how it does on the 3rd burn. There should be a chance this weekend and next week. Please please have this smell go away soon and run clean for good!
 
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When I wish and hope for the gasket to be the cure of the problem, I still seeing an issue with the collar connection if it still puffing smoke thru there when flashback. Just saying.
 
Hey lsucet. No flashback at all last night within the 2hrs I was awake. The flame kept burning up in the cat so there was no gas buildup and much better draft. Last time I was worried about running the gasket too hot right away and set it down to 75% within 15min or so of startup. I also split the wood up into two piles and so it couldn't keep going as well. This time I bundled it all together on the handle side.

It ran great as well. I came down this morning and it had just gone inactive. It ran about 7hrs from cold with about 20lbs of ash. Still lots of smell of some kind. I think it smells like cement, maybe it's the new gasket material? Not really sure. No creo smell in the morning though and it is completely unrelated to the burn rate. Strangely at 75% or 4:30 tstat position it seems to be on a relatively low setting. Maybe the old gasket was sucking in a lot of extra air. Crossing my fingers and will light another one tonight or Saturday morning.
 
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I just lit a 3rd load this morning. The big question: should the gasket or Rutland cement produce much curing smell? And for how long?

This newer smell is still here. I'm pretty sure it is some type of smoke. Not like campfire smoke but some type of more pungent smell. Perhaps burnt creosote? Maybe a little plasticy smell? There was a little bit of this before with the old gasket. I let it warm up nicely for about 1hr and then slowly lowered the tstat to about 75%/4:30 and later 65%/3:30. No flashback, good smooth relight. During the flameless cycle there was a very faint hint of creo smell (that nasty "char" smell again!) and less of the smoke smell. Certainly not enough to build up. I'm wondering if it will start picking up as the gasket breaks in more.

I wouldn't say this smoke fills the house but it is noticeable with the windows cracked and would be pretty obvious with the windows closed. It also is emitting around the collar as normal, presumably riding up the stove top. I can smell it if I waft around the gasket.

I can see the latch side gasket is a little loose now. It might be failing the dollar test. So I just tightened the tensioner once to see if that reduces this smoke, otherwise BK better do something major to help us out.
 
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I cranked the tensioner until the door barely closes. Still lots of plastic/burning smell this morning during startup. Even right now with a few logs just thrown on I'm smelling it. Anytime there is a strong flame and draft.
I'm also still getting creo/char smell when the flame goes out. It is much less than before but plenty of it. Luckily when there was a light flame that creo vapor seems to go away, so the last 4 hours were somewhat clean from this half load. I closed the windows and there was a very faint plasticy burning smell upstairs the last 4 hours.

What do you think this plastic burning smell is??
 
Did you use silicone? Possibly is it and will go away.
 
Are you guys sensitive to smells in general?
My wife is. The smallest wisp of smoke could drift out of the door on a cold start and she can smell it within five minutes up stairs.
 
No sillicone, I used Rutland black cement specifically because I thought it would not burn or emit curing chemicals. Are we sensitive to "smells"? Maybe slightly more than average. Pet smells, dirty shoes, rotting food, etc. we'll get over it. Are we sensitive to constant smoke and chemicals in the house all winter long that will give us cancer in 10 years? F**k yes. We don't want that in our house. We have a 1 and 3 yr old. Our windows have been cracked almost all winter because of this damn stove.
 
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I'm pretty sure several folks on here suggested the silicone or RTV rather than the cement. Perhaps this is the cause of the new plastic smell.
 
Yes, you guys had all started heavily commented on the RTV after I had already installed it with Rutland Black cement. It could be making a smell but I can't imagine this is worse than RTV. The cement is moisture curing not chemical curing. Anyone use Rutland black cement and know if it is supposed to stink like this?

Regardless though, I did get what I need and found creo smell is still there, not fixed with a thick, extra dense gasket.

Woodstock Progress and the side loading door is looking really good right about now.
 
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It would be interesting to test this stove on a different chimney. Any chance dealer could test on a chimney and see if it’s the stove or your chimney configuration? Just thinking if you tried it on a chimney configuration that was recommended by the manufacturer and it still gave off an odor you could then conclude it really is just this stove.
 
Yes, you guys had all started heavily commented on the RTV after I had already installed it with Rutland Black cement. It could be making a smell but I can't imagine this is worse than RTV. The cement is moisture curing not chemical curing. Anyone use Rutland black cement and know if it is supposed to stink like this?

Regardless though, I did get what I need and found creo smell is still there, not fixed with a thick, extra dense gasket.

Woodstock Progress and the side loading door is looking really good right about now.

My wife would have heaved it out of the door herself by this point, so I commend your family. Perhaps it's time for angry calls to BK?
 
Yes. I am calling BK tomorrow. They are plenty tired of hearing from me.

@Mnpellet there are at least 10 other people on Hearth.com with the AF30.2 that have this exact creo vapor issue. Just msging with one guy who is in process of extraditing his 2018 AF30.2 as we speak.

What a huge disappointment. This stove has so much going for it. Not sure what my options and actions will be next. I might try to burn a few last fires with the windows open and see if this plastic smell goes away while the kids are out of the house. Even with the stove cool it still reeks of that smell if you get close.