Kioti DK4710SE HST

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Should be. At around the same cost. Generally speaking.
Yeah, I found out when I had the third function for the grapple and the second remote installed by the dealer. Their labor rates are less than palatable. Perhaps I will be learning how to do it myself.
 
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A quick Google search does not reveal anything about adding a third remote. The manufacturer literature only covered the single remote that comes standard with a second optional remote (which was added). Adding the second remote unfortunately required the removal of a wheel and fender. My house currently doesn't have any really solid surfaces (working on this) that I trust to hold up my tractor with a jack stand while I work on it. Our parking area and driveway haven't been maintained since 1975... Which leads me back to the hydraulic upper link.
 
It could be that your specific make/model can only do 2 remotes?

We just went thru a shopping/horse trading exercise with the Kubota dealer last month. Round numbers, he was talking $1k for 3rd. function out front and 'about the same' for a 3rd. remote out back (Canabucks). That was for an M6. Likely quite a variation in options & prices between makes & models.
 
It could be that your specific make/model can only do 2 remotes?

We just went thru a shopping/horse trading exercise with the Kubota dealer last month. Round numbers, he was talking $1k for 3rd. function out front and 'about the same' for a 3rd. remote out back (Canabucks). That was for an M6. Likely quite a variation in options & prices between makes & models.

I'm sure some kind of electro hydraulic third function type of setup could be added to one of my remotes to run a hydro top link. It's not like I'll need to use the remote and top link circuits at the same time. I was eyeballing a pto cement mixer and saw it used a hydraulic top link to make the drum empty. This got me thinking that a hydraulic top link could be really handy for ground engagement type tools.

I guess with the exchange rate I paid about the same for my setup with the third function and second remote. At some point the BH will arrive and I'll pay for that too....
 
I'm sure if you were to add additional rear remotes they would be after market. It is usually the bigger tractors that have more than two remotes, the ones our sizes that have three or more were done by the tractor owner. Do you know anyone who knows hydraulics?
 
I'm sure if you were to add additional rear remotes they would be after market. It is usually the bigger tractors that have more than two remotes, the ones our sizes that have three or more were done by the tractor owner. Do you know anyone who knows hydraulics?

No, unfortunately not. There is space on the left side of my seat for another lever at least. I'd like to avoid seeing the dealer, but I'm new to stuff like this. I'm trained in automotive, so I'm sure I could learn about tractors and heavy equipment hydraulics.
 
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I hear you SpaceBus I wanted to try installing my own rear spool kits but I'm new to hydraulics as well.
 
I hear you SpaceBus I wanted to try installing my own rear spool kits but I'm new to hydraulics as well.
I'd like to do a spool, but more likely it will be some kind of electro hydraulic third function since I don't need all three going at the same time.
 
You figure out what you are going to do to run your hydro top link?
 
You figure out what you are going to do to run your hydro top link?
I'm waiting until my land plane arrives (should be here any day) then I'm measuring all of my attachments to get the right one. I'm hoping the unit from ASC will work. For the short term I'll probably just run it from one of my two remotes. Eventually an electro hydraulic setup or a third valve body will happen.
 
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For multiple functions off a single lever (in my case the thumb switch on the joy stick) I'm using a Fasse valve. I was not willing to spend stupid money adding factory John Deere rear remotes to run my Normand snowblower. Only one function at a time is possible but I can live with that.

The factory rear remote is plumbed into the duel Fasse valve (I should have done a triple) with a pair of hydro lines from the rear remotes. The new valve then has the quick disconnects. The valve assembly is bolted onto a 1/4" aluminum plate that I machined and the plate is bolted into the rear of the tractor. It's a very slick set up and very professional looking.

Sloan Express had some very good pricing and free shipping. I think you can gang up to 5 of these in a row.
 
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For multiple functions off a single lever (in my case the thumb switch on the joy stick) I'm using a Fasse valve. I was not willing to spend stupid money adding factory John Deere rear remotes to run my Normand snowblower. Only one function at a time is possible but I can live with that.

The factory rear remote is plumbed into the duel Fasse valve (I should have done a triple) with a pair of hydro lines from the rear remotes. The new valve then has the quick disconnects. The valve assembly is bolted onto a 1/4" aluminum plate that I machined and the plate is bolted into the rear of the tractor. It's a very slick set up and very professional looking.

Sloan Express had some very good pricing and free shipping. I think you can gang up to 5 of these in a row.

Wow, that's actually pretty neat. I can't imagine ever needing more than one, but you never know. Could you post some photos? Sound sspendy, but less spendy than an aftermarket remote. Do you think this is something a car mechanic could accomplish? I've never dealt with hydraulics aside from brakes on a car.
 
Wow, that's actually pretty neat. I can't imagine ever needing more than one, but you never know. Could you post some photos? Sound sspendy, but less spendy than an aftermarket remote. Do you think this is something a car mechanic could accomplish? I've never dealt with hydraulics aside from brakes on a car.

It's very simple to do so yes, anybody with light mechanical abilities can do it. Wiring is straight forward and how it ends up looking is on the installer. I still haven't settled on the switch placement in the cab so it's wedged in the side console for now. It was a lot cheaper than installing 2 more rear remotes and valves. Kit was 400 and another few hundred in hose and fittings. I'm well under $1K.

My biggest hurdle was getting the proper disconnects. I have a very good hydro hose maker 45 mins away so dry fitting the layout and marking the hoses for length then bringing these back to the shop to install the ends took the longest amount of time. I missed one hose length by about 1/2 inch but I'm not anal enough to make another one. Truth is I was the only person who knew till now. LOL

I'll take some pictures when I get back up there as the blower is still on the machine waiting for mud season to dry up. I deleted the ones on my phone.
 
It's very simple to do so yes, anybody with light mechanical abilities can do it. Wiring is straight forward and how it ends up looking is on the installer. I still haven't settled on the switch placement in the cab so it's wedged in the side console for now. It was a lot cheaper than installing 2 more rear remotes and valves. Kit was 400 and another few hundred in hose and fittings. I'm well under $1K.

My biggest hurdle was getting the proper disconnects. I have a very good hydro hose maker 45 mins away so dry fitting the layout and marking the hoses for length then bringing these back to the shop to install the ends took the longest amount of time. I missed one hose length by about 1/2 inch but I'm not anal enough to make another one. Truth is I was the only person who knew till now. LOL

I'll take some pictures when I get back up there as the blower is still on the machine waiting for mud season to dry up. I deleted the ones on my phone.

I'm horrible at taking photos and my phone does weird stuff in my pocket. The camera is also crap now that I cracked the lens cover. Tomorrow I'm getting a flip phone and a nice waterproof camera is on the way. Hopefully now I'll remember to get more photos. I need to get a chest mount for my go pro so I can do videos. Maybe I'll even get paid for it!
 
Here's the review I posted to Chippers Direct, since they offered me $5 to do so.



Many may balk at the high initial price, especially when compared to overseas units. This machine does not have any kind of assisted feeding mechanism like the less expensive overseas units, but none offer shredding capability. If you want to quickly reduce a wooded area into chips, this is NOT the tool of choice. Landowners who are looking to primarily chip and shred small organic material will be interested in this machine. So far I have chipped and shredded a few yards of material and the results are fantastic. Shredded material begins composting shortly after being processed, so great for garden beds, mulch, etc. The chipped material is about quarter to half dollar sized and packs down nicely. The material I processed, items were both chipped and shredded, is being used to cover a tractor path through the woods. The processed material is holding strong to over 5,000 lbs of tractor (with full loader and BXM42 attached) and has been great during Mud Season.

Now, there are a few downsides to the machine. The shredding attachment will absolutely rip material out of your hand as you feed it into the machine. I have mentioned in the "cons" section there is a learning curve, this is what I am talking about. In the video by the manufacturer (if you can keep your eyes open long enough because it's hilarious) the operator is very careful and handles the material quite gingerly when feeding it into the shredder, you will learn why. I have smacked my hand into the hopper a few times from the quickness at which the machine takes the material. It's not going to drag you in, I'm sure your wife imagines if you watch the video with her (mine did), but it's not pleasant all the same. There are "assists" (I think the manual calls them) that can be opened to let material fall into the shredder. This is only partially true, but you will get the hang of it. This technique is difficult to describe in text, I am no Edgar Allan Poe.

Another "con" is the so called "self feeding" chipper hopper. I find this to only be partially true. Sometimes you have to push larger stuff through. Not all the time, but it is worth noting.When items are short and pass beyond the flap, then it's up to the machine. When feeding something like a four foot branch, usually the chipper starts to pull the whole thing in. Sometimes when long branches or limbs have too many twigs or other branches, then you have to push the item through. Once the item has passed beyond the flap, generally the chipper will just take it from you and it feeds fine. Sometimes small pieces of debris bounce against the chipper wheel and the flaps until they are totally gone.

Ideally this machine would get 4.5 stars, but that's not an option. The addition of some kind of belted mechanical or hydraulic feed would make this product absolutely perfect, even with the violent shredder. The price is steep, but this is really the only option available if you want a PTO wood chipper with a shredder. Yeah, I'm sure you are saying "but there's another option out there", but you would be wrong. This one other option only dumps the material right on the ground, where it is useless. This machine has a 360 degree angle adjustable chute that will blast wood debris where ever you want it to go. Right now I am using a rudimentary box made of disassembled pallets to store and transport the wood material. You can't do this with the other so called "other choice" of PTO chipper shredder.
 
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I had to crop the photo so it would upload, but here's the EA Land Plane. I flipped the shanks so it would sit flat for measuring the third link. I should be able to use the off the shelf ASC hydro top link without any issues. It's kind of embarrassing, but I'm afraid to use this on my driveway, which is the whole reason I bought it. I want to just go for it, but I'd hate to mess up our only parking area...
 

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I had to crop the photo so it would upload, but here's the EA Land Plane. I flipped the shanks so it would sit flat for measuring the third link. I should be able to use the off the shelf ASC hydro top link without any issues. It's kind of embarrassing, but I'm afraid to use this on my driveway, which is the whole reason I bought it. I want to just go for it, but I'd hate to mess up our only parking area...
Looks like a well built unit. Even if you messed the driveway up some, you can fix it.
 
Looks like a well built unit. Even if you messed the driveway up some, you can fix it.
I mean, I can't make it much worse I figure. I guess worst case scenario I'll be really poor and pay someone to fix it for me. After watching some more videos, and rewatching others, I'll try it out tomorrow if it's decent.

After measuring the grader and some other stuff, I'll be at the end of the ASC hydraulic top link if I keep the Pete's quick attach stuff on, which I do really like. I guess I could find something that's four inches longer?
 
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Just before the storm is hitting we lost internet and the cable for the TV but it came back within five minutes, a sign of things to come.
It was beautiful here today. High of 70 with a breeze. The black flies overwhelmed us a few times, but we just kept moving.