They make wussy trucks nowadays
- Thread starter WiscWoody
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
My complaint too.
My truck had running boards too. Still, I had to stand on the rear tire in order to reach into rear bed from the side. That gets old quickly.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
I don’t think I ever had a truck much different in height than what is made today. Back when trucks were made lower, I was in my teens and 20’s, and I was the one lifting them. [emoji3]
I do have to admit that climbing in and out of the bed, especially when unloading saws and other gear after a long hot day of summer cutting, isn’t getting easier with age. Can’t imagine what I’ll do when I’m as old as begreen and bholler. [emoji14]
I do have to admit that climbing in and out of the bed, especially when unloading saws and other gear after a long hot day of summer cutting, isn’t getting easier with age. Can’t imagine what I’ll do when I’m as old as begreen and bholler. [emoji14]
Go back a couple decades and the tires were 16" IIRC, not the 19&20" tires standard today. My previous truck was 2WD and had lower ground clearance too.
You'll probably be asking your kids for help getting on the vr wifi-com.Can’t imagine what I’ll do when I’m as old as begreen and bholler.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
If that were true, you’d be younger than me... but I don’t believe it!
Seasoned Oak
Minister of Fire
My 2015 is designated as a work truck but has a lot of options,plus its 4WD. So many options,a new one prices out at $39,600, and thats for a Single Cab.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
A guy I know at work drives a 50-year old Ford F100. It’s got a certain panache, and I think it’d be fun to drive on occasion. But then we get those semi-frequent weeks of zero-degree mornings in January, and I remember my heated seats, remote start, coil-assisted defroster and heated steering wheel, and I’m thankful it’s not 1970 anymore.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
I noticed this trend starting 15-20 yrs ago. Now may urban truckees call their trucks their cars and expect them to have all the cushy comforts of them too. I like power windows because it's a long reach to the passenger side window, but that and a good radio will usually suffice. What I don't like is when they add a computer and so much crap on the truck that the battery wears down if the truck is not driven for 3-4 weeks.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
When I ordered my last work truck I screwed up and didn't get power windows...because I can reach the passenger side window just fine...or used to. The Ford Superdutys are a bit wider than the 150 I had before, and after I got the new 250 I realized it was almost too far to reach...fingertips only, a real PITA. I would be happy with just a power passenger side window only like some semi tractors have.
Looking back on it I should have just ordered an XLT package with carpet delete (rubber mat)
Seasoned Oak
Minister of Fire
Last actual car i had i can hardly remember. Was probably a Corvette. Had a lot of cars in the last 45yrs but, been mostly in trucks since the 80s. My truck IS my car, so i want all the bells and whistles.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
We get at least a week or three of single-digit temps, often a week below zero degF, and we need to scrape windows almost every morning in winter. So I’d gladly give up your power windows or nice radio for remote start, any day. I’m sure this sounds wussy to those from Alaska it Minnesota, but 0F is just stupid cold, with the sort of wind we always get with it.
My truck is my truck, dedicated to pulling trailers and bad weather... but I still want heated seats and remote start. [emoji41] Ironically, my car is better equipped for cold, but that lives in a heated garage when the weather gets ugly.
I like driving my 78 F-150. It’s the Custom model meaning it was the base with the 300/6 engine and a Borg Warner T-18 granny gear 4 speed that you usually start out in 2nd gear with. And it’s only driven in the summer months but I don’t have heated anything in my other trucks other than a heater. It’d be nice to have AC in the old truck on some humid days but it has all kinds of the old time vents in it including vent windows and vents on the floor with the levers to shut them when it gets cold. Wisconsin is very lenient with their collector plates with the only stipulation being not to drive the vehicle in January and your not supposed to carry more than 500lbs in the bed of a truck but here in the sticks I doubt anyone has been ticketed for too much weight.
Last edited:
Yeah I have never heard of anyone getting ticketed for carrying cargo in a classic truck. Which yes with classic or antique plates in PA no cargo at all in the bed. But if you get in an accident with classic plates and cargo in the bed good luck getting insurance to cover anything.
Highbeam
Minister of Fire
I lowered my 2000 f350 to f250 height by swapping the lift blocks in the rear end. That 2” of bed height really makes a difference for loading the bed.
As trucks have gotten taller so have the hitches. My newer rv trailer hitch is so tall that I need one of those crazy tall drop hitches flipped over to get the ball high enough to tow level.
As trucks have gotten taller so have the hitches. My newer rv trailer hitch is so tall that I need one of those crazy tall drop hitches flipped over to get the ball high enough to tow level.
I wish I could just pull the blocks. That would be fine for the back but can't do it for the front
Ashful
Minister of Fire
I used to drive a buddy’s F150 Custom frequently in high school, I think it was a very early 1980’s model, maybe 1980. Same 4 on the floor with Granny low, but I think his had a 302 V8. Very classy looking stepside bed with steel battens over wood floor. Cool little truck, we had a lot of fun with it.
There is definitely a trade off on lift height when an vehicle is set up for 2 tons and plenty of ground clearance. Unloaded the lift height is 4 foot 6". Then again its rated for 3.6' feet fording depth so they set it up to keep the cargo dry 
.
I do like the steps on the tailgate, still a bit of climb up I am going to rig fold down stair on the tailgate one of these days that attaches inside.
Its a 1990 and zero electronics or computers. Folks get extra points for noticing the wheel centers versus the differential height.
.I do like the steps on the tailgate, still a bit of climb up I am going to rig fold down stair on the tailgate one of these days that attaches inside.
Its a 1990 and zero electronics or computers. Folks get extra points for noticing the wheel centers versus the differential height.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
Isn’t all of that height figured into the suspension travel and axle geometry, when figuring the GVWR? Not to oversimplify it, I am sure there are many other factors, but wouldn’t lowering an F350 to F250 height reduce it’s GVWR toward that of the F250?
Ashful
Minister of Fire
Highbeam
Minister of Fire
At least on my f350, the factory put a big "rake" in the trucks (butt high like a grasshoper) so that when loaded down heavy it looks level. You often see folks adding "leveling kits" to their trucks to fix this rake which raises the front to match the high butt. I did the oppositeand lowered the rear to match the front. I think it looks really nice and helps make it more useful. I also added torklift overload bumpers to the rear suspension that engage the overload springs earlier so that it doesn't sag as deep when loaded heavy.
Highbeam
Minister of Fire
I'm going to say no. The only difference between this part of the F250 and the F350 in these years is the door sticker giving my 1000 more lbs of cargo and these lift blocks. Even the shocks are the same part number even though they ride more compressed now. The Ford F250 blocks are shorter and have the wedge shape to correct the pinoin angle. Effectively, all I've done is raise the axle 2" closer to the leaf pack. The suspension still compresses the same amount with the same load and the max travel snubbers are built into the block. And yes, I even bought brand new u-bolts since they are supposedly torque to yield. This block swap dropped the ball about 2.5". Had to aim the headlights lower.
