Summers Heat 2400-sq ft 50-SHSSW02 Door Problems.

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I run the built in fan although its very noisy on high, and i also run a box fan blowing across the top of the stove trying to keep the top from overheating. Im concerned all this excess air causing overheating that its causing the door and stove body to warp further making the problem worse with each fire. The stove works ok with the first burn out of the box but get worse with each burn after that due to the gasket flattening and possibly the bow in the door and stove body getting worse with the high temps.
 
dj99 said:
I left my mark at Lowes in the form of a review that suggests you use a 1" gasket (not even 7/8" will work, trust me).
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I read that review.
 
Man, I'm glad I didn't buy one of these. Instead, I bought a Drolet Baltic a while back. The fit and finish is top notch and the door mating surface is perfect. When the fire is going the door will actually suck closed so you almost don't need a latch. The only thing I don't like is that it's a little sluggish on start up. I hope you get something figured out with Lowes.
 
ckr74 said:
Man, I'm glad I didn't buy one of these. Instead, I bought a Drolet Baltic a while back. The fit and finish is top notch and the door mating surface is perfect. When the fire is going the door will actually suck closed so you almost don't need a latch. The only thing I don't like is that it's a little sluggish on start up. I hope you get something figured out with Lowes.
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The Baltic is a good heater. It usually if fine for starting. The slow starting could be sluggish draft. This can happen for a number of reasons, like negative pressure in the room, 90's in the flue path, too short chimney, etc.. Lots of dry kindling for starting can help. Cabinet and trim shop scraps are a good source.
 
Any update on this?

I'm running our 50-shssw02 pretty hard already in it's second season now. Been keeping an eye on the door and frame without any issue so far. I've been able to maintain temperatures pretty well between 475-550 degrees.

Maybe I just lucked out.

Getting a solid 9 hours of good heat with a pine/oak mix.
 
kyguylal said:
Any update on this?

I'm running our 50-shssw02 pretty hard already in it's second season now. Been keeping an eye on the door and frame without any issue so far. I've been able to maintain temperatures pretty well between 475-550 degrees.

Maybe I just lucked out.

Getting a solid 9 hours of good heat with a pine/oak mix.
Click to expand...
I put a 7/8" high density gasket in there any haven't had any issues. I did have mine replaced but the new one has ran flawless for the last 2 years. I'm really impressed with the heat this thing kicks out just wish the blower dryer style fan was quieter. I need to look at my window gasket the other day it seemed a little loose it might just need a washer or 2 on the back side of the foot.
 
kyguylal said:
Any update on this?

I'm running our 50-shssw02 pretty hard already in it's second season now. Been keeping an eye on the door and frame without any issue so far. I've been able to maintain temperatures pretty well between 475-550 degrees.
Click to expand...
Englander has all but abandoned me on this stove after sending me one that is worse than the original. Im going to have to fix i t myself as the stove has so many other redeeming features. I cant keep it under 650- 700 degrees with all the air leakage,and that with only a few pieces of wood in it. Yes its a heat monster ,but i cant control it at this point other than only burning a few sticks at a time. Not going to be getting any overnight burns that way. First up is getting the window gasket back in place thats been falling out since i got this replacement stove. Thats probably a third or more of the air leakage right there. Ill update after i do that.
 
Chas0218 said:
I put a 7/8" high density gasket in there any haven't had any issues. I did have mine replaced but the new one has ran flawless for the last 2 years. I'm really impressed with the heat this thing kicks out just wish the blower dryer style fan was quieter. I need to look at my window gasket the other day it seemed a little loose it might just need a washer or 2 on the back side of the foot.
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Try a rubber washer under the fan bolts. my fan is ok on low but noisy on high. I use it all the time trying to keep the stovetop temp from running away,along with a box fan blowing across the whole stove.
 
Seasoned Oak said:
Try a rubber washer under the fan bolts. my fan is ok on low but noisy on high. I use it all the time trying to keep the stovetop temp from running away,along with a box fan blowing across the whole stove.
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I don't have a rattle just the fan motor itself is loud.
 
If not for the rattle i could barely hear my fan even on high. Perhaps there is something wrong with it, or look for an oil port. Usually on one or both sides of the center shaft.
 
I have begun the task of trying to fix the defective replacement stove i got from englander since they have completely abandoned me as far a them taking responsibility for known defects on this particular model.
First up i fixed the window gasket that has been falling out since i got the stove. Took about an hour. Good thing the screws have wrench heads so you can use a socket instead of just a screwdriver. A very delicate procedure as the gasket must be placed perfectly half inside and half outside the glass. Ill ck the stove temps with test burn to see if it still overheats. And if so next will be trying to take the one eighth inch inverted bow out of the stove at the door bottom. The door is bowed out slightly (about 1/8 in)so the inverted bow in the stove makes the gap twice as wide. Even the giant one inch thick door gaslket cannot make up this gap .Im thinking possibly a hyd jack placed inside the stove to jack the steel back out straight or even bowed out slightly to match the door. But ill make it straight first to see if that fixes it.
 
After a test burn i think i have fixed about a third of the excess air coming in by redoing the glass gasket. There is still air coming in top and bottom of the door . The stove is now slightly controllable using the air adjustment rod. I was able to keep the stovetop under 700 with the stove about 30% full of wood ,but thats still higher than the 600 max operating temp stovetop the manual for this model recommends. I took some pics of it on high air and low for comparison ill post later.
 
This $1000 Stove now selling for $479. Must be dumping the model . Rather the fixing the problems.
 
Chas0218 said:
I can't speak for the company but I know I bought mine for that price or darn close to it 3 years ago.
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Any problems with it ? I know for a fact some of those selling today have the same problems i do. Warped bowed out door and bowed in stove body with giant door gasket bandaid.
 
Seasoned Oak said:
Any problems with it ? I know for a fact some of those selling today have the same problems i do. Warped bowed out door and bowed in stove body with giant door gasket bandaid.
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When I first got it the stove face was warped pretty bad but they replaced it and haven't had an issue yet. I did replace the door gasket with a 7/8" and haven't had any problems sealing it up. I got a replacement from them after the 1st year more for a preventative measure but opted for the thicker one.
 
Chas0218 said:
When I first got it the stove face was warped pretty bad but they replaced it and haven't had an issue yet. I did replace the door gasket with a 7/8" and haven't had any problems sealing it up. I got a replacement from them after the 1st year more for a preventative measure but opted for the thicker one.
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They replaced mine as well but the new one is worse than the one i sent back. You would think they would have checked it carefully for the same issue but apparently not. Just got the run around ever since until i gave up. Ill just have to fix it myself as it right on the edge of being unusable. Hard to keep it under 600 stovetop.
 
Seasoned Oak said:
They replaced mine as well but the new one is worse than the one i sent back. You would think they would have checked it carefully for the same issue but apparently not. Just got the run around ever since until i gave up. Ill just have to fix it myself as it right on the edge of being unusable. Hard to keep it under 600 stovetop.
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If I'm running dry wood mine won't stay under 600* with the air shut all the way down. I've never ran my stove hard but keeping it under 600* isn't in the norm for my stove. Usually it hovers right around 650* sometimes hotter. This is checked with an IR gun.
 
Chas0218 said:
If I'm running dry wood mine won't stay under 600* with the air shut all the way down. I've never ran my stove hard but keeping it under 600* isn't in the norm for my stove. Usually it hovers right around 650* sometimes hotter. This is checked with an IR gun.
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Their instructions warn against running the stove over 600 to avoid damage and voiding the warranty that they dont stand behind ,but is probably a little on the low as a buffer ,but any air leaks will make that almost impossible. I keep the top under 650 by limiting the amount of wood i put at one time. So no such thing as an overnight burn with 4 pcs of wood in the stove. I use an IR gun as well.
 
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I got mine cheap as well. Im guessing just a seasonal sale.

Are you able to keep the temps down with the blower on?

I haven't had a problem stuffing it full a s keeping it around 450 without the blower. If I open the air up a bit, I can cruise at 600. Usually load up at 8PM and have coals to relight with at 6am.
 
kyguylal said:
Are you able to keep the temps down with the blower on?
I haven't had a problem stuffing it full a s keeping it around 450 without the blower. If I open the air up a bit, I can cruise at 600. Usually load up at 8PM and have coals to relight with at 6am.
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The blower helps plus i have a box fan blowing across the top. If your door doesnt leak a lot of air the stove is very controllable.
 
Iv found a way to temporarily mitigate the overheating problem. Not ideal but it works. I add a few not exactly dry pieces of wood to the stove such as smaller logs that haven't been split and that tempers the tendency for the stove to get too hot due to the leaky door. I could possibly get some creosote from this, but with the stove top temps so high it should reburn most of the extra off gasses. So far the flue has been squeaky clean.
 
I bought this stove a a discounted price in the very early spring of 2020. I had just moved and didn't have a lot of money to sink into a nicer stove, so to Lowes I went. Like so many others I immediately noticed the door didn't close properly, almost seemed like the hinges were welded on crooked. Sent it back and Englander shipped out a replacement stove assuring me that it would be throughly checked over before shipping. It arrived and again a huge disappointment. This one at least had no door issues but the hardware was mismatched silver and gold and the plug into the ash bin would not fit into the hole. Either the wrong plug or they drilled the hole too small. They shipped out a replacement t plug they assured me would fit and didn't fit at all. My DH had to shave it down to fit and I feel like it let's in more air than it should. Gets the job done but its overall disappointing, Englander basically abandoned me as well. I'll probably try to make it last 2-3 winters and then go with a different stove. There are just too many people having problems with this model.
 
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I would try putting these problems on Lowes. They purchased the stoves from Englander in the first place and then resold it to you. They have much more leverage with Englander and may allow you to return the stove for a refund.
 
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Update: I just started using this stove again this year and so far its been working much better. Its possible that the installation of a Stainless Steel chimney cap made a difference in reducing the draft. After all its like adding a 90 degree elbow to the chimney top. Seems to counter act a tall chimney. Stove top Temp topped out about 550 on full air last 2 times i used it . Right in the sweet spot.
 
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