1000 gallon tank piping pictures

[goosegunner]

Just thought I would add the pictures of my 1000 gallon tank. 1-1/2" copper for Boiler to tank piping and 1-1/4" copper to loads.

The ports in the middle I put standpipes one with a air vent, one for shop supply, one for shop return in the dip tube. Also have a bushing in one with a well for sensor.

gg

 

[jebatty]

Looks really good. Is it in operation? What's your experience so far?

 

[Gasifier]

Looks nice GG. How do you plan to insulate the tank? How do you like your Econoburn 200? That thing must throw some serious BTUs at that size. How long have you been heating with it?

 

[goosegunner]

Looks really good. Is it in operation? What's your experience so far?

Thanks, It is not being used yet just test burns for the tank. It was used all last winter without storage. I have learned my problems with boiler going to low fan during charging are due to my pump being too small. Once I figure out my exact head loss with piping additions I will be upgrading.

gg

 

[goosegunner]

Looks nice GG. How do you plan to insulate the tank? How do you like your Econoburn 200? That thing must throw some serious BTUs at that size. How long have you been heating with it?

I am going to use fiberglass batts. I started insulating the piping last night. I like the boiler a lot but I would like it more if it had low temp shut down for the fan.

gg

 

[Gasifier]

I am going to use fiberglass batts. I started insulating the piping last night. I like the boiler a lot but I would like it more if it had low temp shut down for the fan.

Same thing with my Wood Gun. Why do they sell them like that? Could they really be saving money by doing it that way? You would think they would want that controlled so that it was more operator friendly. (Happy customer.) Now I have to figure out a way, or pay someone, to get it to shut the fan off at whatever temperature I want it to. Why would they want it to keep running and become a dam air conditioner for the boiler? I just can't understand that. But apparently a lot of them are like that?

 

[goosegunner]

I am going to use fiberglass batts. I started insulating the piping last night. I like the boiler a lot but I would like it more if it had low temp shut down for the fan.

Same thing with my Wood Gun. Why do they sell them like that? Could they really be saving money by doing it that way? You would think they would want that controlled so that it was more operator friendly. (Happy customer.) Now I have to figure out a way, or pay someone, to get it to shut the fan off at whatever temperature I want it to. Why would they want it to keep running and become a dam air conditioner for the boiler? I just can't understand that. But apparently a lot of them are like that?

Econoburn told me that they are required by code to set them up that way when they leave the factory. Maybe the European boilers don't have that requirement.

They said most people use a timer. Some people here use flue gas sensor with a timer. I will probably just use a simple timer the other method is a little over my head. There are very few if any people in my area that have even seen a gasification boiler so I have pretty much been on my own with the help of the board.

gg

 

[henfruit]

The vigas has a smoke gas temp gauge,That you can set to the temp you want the fan to sut down off at so you will have coals left when you add wood.

 

[Eric Johnson]

The problem I had with the newer controller on the EKO was that if you forgot to reset the controller when you re-filled the boiler, sometimes it would shut down the fan shortly thereafter, leaving you with a load of smoldering wood and no hope of the blower kicking back on. Believe me, it's not much fun to wake up in the morning to a cold house and a boiler full of unburned wood. For some reason that doesn't happen (very often) with the older controller model, though both do shut down the blower when the firebox is out of wood or it's not producing heat.

The obvious solution would be to set it up so that the controller automatically resets when you open the firebox door.

 

[jebatty]

Although my Tarm does have low temp shut-down for the draft fan, I re-wired it to also shut down the circulator. I now am looking for a control to do this for a Wood Gun and a Garn. I think what's needed is a manual reset limit controller.

I don't think a sensor in the flue is the best thing to do, because if the unit goes into a long idle mode, flue temp may drop to a point that shuts the unit down while there still is wood to burn. My thought is, like the Tarm, to place the sensor at a location that stays hot enough above the limit until the wood really has burned out. The Tarm location is in the smoke box, the area above the hx tubes where the flue gases collect before entering the flue. I have the Tarm sensor set to 100C (212F), and this works very well. The heat from the hot boiler water plus a little extra heat from the burn or remaining coals assures a shut down only after the wood has in fact burned out.

I did have the sensor set at 90C for awhile, but that seemed to keep the draft fan and circulator on quite a bit longer than actually needed. The 100C setting sometimes may leave just a few unburned coals, but I think it more efficiently shuts the boiler down than did the 90C setting.

I have seen electronic manual reset limit controllers in about the $50 range. It is possible that a relay may be needed, depending on the particular situation.

 

[McKraut]

Hi GG,

How is your setup working? I appreciate the pictures. I was looking for someone's setup to look at.

 

[goosegunner]

Hi GG,

How is your setup working? I appreciate the pictures. I was looking for someone's setup to look at.

I am in the process of insulating the tank. The additions to my piping also will require me to upgrade my pump if I want it to run the at peak efficiency. I used the boiler last season without storage and it worked very well. I hope this makes it much better. It is oversized for my home so i will now have somewhere to put all the extra btus.

If you look at my other pictures you will see many T's with wells. If I did it over I would just use the panel meters. Much cheaper once you factor in fitting, street adapter, well, and temp gauge.

gg

 

[EricV]

Although my Tarm does have low temp shut-down for the draft fan, I re-wired it to also shut down the circulator. I now am looking for a control to do this for a Wood Gun and a Garn. I think what's needed is a manual reset limit controller.

I don't think a sensor in the flue is the best thing to do, because if the unit goes into a long idle mode, flue temp may drop to a point that shuts the unit down while there still is wood to burn. My thought is, like the Tarm, to place the sensor at a location that stays hot enough above the limit until the wood really has burned out. The Tarm location is in the smoke box, the area above the hx tubes where the flue gases collect before entering the flue. I have the Tarm sensor set to 100C (212F), and this works very well. The heat from the hot boiler water plus a little extra heat from the burn or remaining coals assures a shut down only after the wood has in fact burned out.

I did have the sensor set at 90C for awhile, but that seemed to keep the draft fan and circulator on quite a bit longer than actually needed. The 100C setting sometimes may leave just a few unburned coals, but I think it more efficiently shuts the boiler down than did the 90C setting.

I have seen electronic manual reset limit controllers in about the $50 range. It is possible that a relay may be needed, depending on the particular situation.

How did you wire that up? I'm going to do the same on my Tarm. Makes sense.
Thanks
Eric

 

[jebatty]

This isn't original with me. It came from a long ago post on the forum. Lug #11 on the Tarm terminal strip is the "hot" line tie in point. When the Tarm low limit cuts out, it cuts power to #11.

I wired the coil of a 110vac relay lug from #11 on the Tarm Strip with 12 being neutral. I used a relay because I didn't know the power capacity of the Tarm low limit
control and didn't want to wire the circulator directly into the control circuit. When the reset button is pushed, the Tarm circuit is active and the relay closes. When the low limit cuts out, the Tarm circuit is inactive and the relay opens.

I then wired the relay contacts on an independent circuit to the aquastat that controls the circulator. Now the circulator operates in sync with the Tarm draft blower. The low limit shuts off the circ as the fire dies out.

 

[EricV]

Sweet, thanks a ton. I had the concept but you laid it out perfect for me.

A new project for those RIBs I have and been wanting to use.

Thanks
Eric

 

[kabbott]

Although my Tarm does have low temp shut-down for the draft fan, I re-wired it to also shut down the circulator. I now am looking for a control to do this for a Wood Gun and a Garn. I think what's needed is a manual reset limit controller.

I don't think a sensor in the flue is the best thing to do, because if the unit goes into a long idle mode, flue temp may drop to a point that shuts the unit down while there still is wood to burn. My thought is, like the Tarm, to place the sensor at a location that stays hot enough above the limit until the wood really has burned out. The Tarm location is in the smoke box, the area above the hx tubes where the flue gases collect before entering the flue. I have the Tarm sensor set to 100C (212F), and this works very well. The heat from the hot boiler water plus a little extra heat from the burn or remaining coals assures a shut down only after the wood has in fact burned out.

I did have the sensor set at 90C for awhile, but that seemed to keep the draft fan and circulator on quite a bit longer than actually needed. The 100C setting sometimes may leave just a few unburned coals, but I think it more efficiently shuts the boiler down than did the 90C setting.

I have seen electronic manual reset limit controllers in about the $50 range. It is possible that a relay may be needed, depending on the particular situation.

How did you wire that up? I'm going to do the same on my Tarm. Makes sense.
Thanks
Eric

Check out the schematic for the varmeberonen, it uses a low limit stack temp(adjustable) and a timer.
Shuts down the circ as well I believe(I use the nofossil system to control my circ so not positive on this).

 

[Garth B]

I installed an adjustable snapdisc (18$) on the flue and wired it in paralel with a timer which are both in series with a lightswitch and the fan on my econoburn. Have been set up like this for 2 years and has been working great. I start a fire, turn the timer to 15-20min which gives the flue gas time to heat up and close the snapdisc, then when the flue gas drops below 150 it shuts the fan down. The lightswitch shuts the fan down while I load wood so I dont have to shut the boiler and circ pump off with the main switch. I will be posting pics soon

 

[infinitymike]

I am going to use fiberglass batts. I started insulating the piping last night. I like the boiler a lot but I would like it more if it had low temp shut down for the fan.

Same thing with my Wood Gun. Why do they sell them like that? Could they really be saving money by doing it that way? You would think they would want that controlled so that it was more operator friendly. (Happy customer.) Now I have to figure out a way, or pay someone, to get it to shut the fan off at whatever temperature I want it to. Why would they want it to keep running and become a dam air conditioner for the boiler? I just can't understand that. But apparently a lot of them are like that?

AHS actually sells one for the wood gun. When I was buying mine I asked them about it, they said if someone will be around to reload it I shouldn't worry about it.
They didnt push alot of options on me, which is good salesmanship, but they didn't really inform about alot of things either which is bad salesmanship.
I am going to call them and see if it is something they can sell me and I can install. Still don't have mine hooked up yet :-(