2006 Rika Integra II (Austroflamm) Ignitor Tribulations

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Matthew Fisch

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Sep 7, 2012
8
My ignitor konked out a year or so ago. Last winter I manually started all year.

This year I'm determined to get the ignitor working again.

I started off the season with some help from a professional who had a battery powered lift truck and was able to move the very heavy unit outside for me so it could be cleaned out with compressed air. He showed me how to clean the room fan, which is something that needed to be done (and I didn't even know was necessary). Really, there's no way Id be able to move this thing myself, and no fscking way I'd want to clean it that well inside (so this was money well spent).

Thing is running beautifully, except the Ignitor he brought out doesn't work.

Don't mind solving this one myself, but would like to get it solved.

Old ignitor no longer started, looked physically burned, and likely was kaput (but maybe just partially worn).
New ignitor works on 120V AC, but the ignitor port on the Integra only puts out 55V.

I see some Integra II ignitors labelled "low power", maybe they're supposed to be 55V? Only specs I see on them are 250W. Where can I get the specs for this? There's a specsheet for sale on the net regarding the older integras, only thing I see on the newer ones is the user manual which has zero information on tech specs.

Ran a good voltage tester across things.

AC looks like a healthy 117V at the wall, similarly on various AC components inside the unit.
The ignitor circuit shows 55V and change between the two legs (with or without ignitor connected).
One leg shorted to ground shows 55V.
One leg shorted to ground shows a fraction of 1V.

Before I tear the board out and start testing relays and such......

Possible I need a low power 55V ignitor but only have a new 120V one?

The older and newer integras def. use different ignitors.

Thoughts? Bad board or ignitor?

-Matt
 
This may be a bit dated and you may already have a solution to the ignitor problem...I work for the importer of Rika stoves. The ignitor you want is part #RI-Z32882. If you want help locating one, contact our customer service department at 503-252-1249 option 7.

It's also important that you determine what type of burn pot you have because it could be a contributor to the ignitor failure. If your burn pot has a hole where the ignitor and bracket go through the side of the burn pot, you should consider changing it out for the version that has a slot for the ignitor, but the ignitor itself is behind the wall of the burn pot, not sticking through it. There are far fewer ignitor failures with the slotted burn pot vs the one with the hole.

It's possible when your ignitor failed, that it also blew out the ignitor circuit on the main control board (roman numeral IV on the board). That happens in roughly 50% of ignitor failures on the Integra II. It's easy to rule out by plugging the auger motor into the ignitor port. The auger port is roman numeral position V. Unplug your stove, move the auger motor from position V to position IV, then restart your stove. If you have auger feed, the ignitor port is working. If not, then it's blown out. The only recourse then is to continue starting it manually, or replace the control board as well as well as the ignitor.

Regarding cleaning, it's not really necessary to move it outside of your home to clean it thoroughly. If you have a good portable vacuum (a certified metal canister or ash vac is recommended), you can do a very comprehensive cleaning job without much mess inside your home. You may need a copy of the Annual Tech Cleaning Guide for a step by step of the procedures.

If you want or need help with any of this, please call us at 503-252-1249.
 
This may be a bit dated and you may already have a solution to the ignitor problem...I work for the importer of Rika stoves. The ignitor you want is part #RI-Z32882. If you want help locating one, contact our customer service department at 503-252-1249 option 7.

It's also important that you determine what type of burn pot you have because it could be a contributor to the ignitor failure. If your burn pot has a hole where the ignitor and bracket go through the side of the burn pot, you should consider changing it out for the version that has a slot for the ignitor, but the ignitor itself is behind the wall of the burn pot, not sticking through it. There are far fewer ignitor failures with the slotted burn pot vs the one with the hole.

It's possible when your ignitor failed, that it also blew out the ignitor circuit on the main control board (roman numeral IV on the board). That happens in roughly 50% of ignitor failures on the Integra II. It's easy to rule out by plugging the auger motor into the ignitor port. The auger port is roman numeral position V. Unplug your stove, move the auger motor from position V to position IV, then restart your stove. If you have auger feed, the ignitor port is working. If not, then it's blown out. The only recourse then is to continue starting it manually, or replace the control board as well as well as the ignitor.

Regarding cleaning, it's not really necessary to move it outside of your home to clean it thoroughly. If you have a good portable vacuum (a certified metal canister or ash vac is recommended), you can do a very comprehensive cleaning job without much mess inside your home. You may need a copy of the Annual Tech Cleaning Guide for a step by step of the procedures.

If you want or need help with any of this, please call us at 503-252-1249.

Hello Lucky!
My older Integra (1996 ver.) departed yesterday and I am in the process of ordering replacement. I would like to read the Annual Tech Cleaning Guide to see what, if any, difference there may be between the old Integra and the Integra II. How do I acquire?
 
Hello Lucky!
My older Integra (1996 ver.) departed yesterday and I am in the process of ordering replacement. I would like to read the Annual Tech Cleaning Guide to see what, if any, difference there may be between the old Integra and the Integra II. How do I acquire?

Tom, what happened to your old integra? I have one of that vintage also, did you actually get rid of it or do you want to,I might be interested. Let me know, thanks,
 
Tom, what happened to your old integra? I have one of that vintage also, did you actually get rid of it or do you want to,I might be interested. Let me know, thanks,
Hey Andy! I sold the Integra on Craigslist for $1500.00 this past Saturday. I am trying to source a 2012 model and may have to ask an Uncle in England to buy it and ship it to me.
 
I know this thread is ancient. I got tired of lighting my stove by hand and the Integra II replacement board situation is pretty scrappy.

Here's the deal for anyone who wants to fix their Integra II ignitor board:

The problem seems to be a burn-out on the triac used to dispense current to the ignitor. You can see I had to remove the heat exchangers to gain access. I suggest the heat gun setting of a butane soldering iron for the heat exchangers, as well as a chip puller while removing the triac (to save yourself some headaches).

20141025_212642-1.jpg 20141025_214524-1.jpg 20141025_215347-1.jpg

Ideally there's a fuse in-line (and you could add one on the ignitor supply leads, but I admit I didn't). Apparently when (sometimes) the ignitor shorts during burn-out the triac is toast.

It was easy to find, scorching all over and even a hole burned through the component packaging.

I couldn't even tell what chip it was except that there were several other identical chips used for other things on the board (e.g., the auger).

20141025_215308-1.jpg

I simply swapped the burned triac out with one of these from mouser electronics:

ST T425-600B

A $1 component and $5 shipping.

I don't have a photo of the "fixed" configuration. I pretty much suck at soldering, looks like a 5yo hot glue gun experiment -- but it works (been a couple weeks and it repeatedly starts fine now).

Of course I should have prefaced I _also_ swapped the ignitor. But as mentioned elsewhere that only helps if you didn't also burn out the board.

Cheers and good luck to any integra owners using alcohol to start.
 
Thanks for the update Matthew ... it don't have to be pretty as long as it works==c For those not willing, there are board repair services out there...
 
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