A Hearthstone Heritage D.I.Y. Ceramic Baffle Modification Replacement

[relaxrn]

My heritage stove is 5 years old. Im tired of replacing baffles but Im nervous about the 500 degree rating.

 

[relaxrn]

My dealer told me that there is a problem with the handle on the front door and they gave me a new one for free-they charged labor to install it.

 

[WV Homestead]

guys how did the modification work out? did the bricks work ? any problems?

 

[relaxrn]

I have a hearthstone heritage stove, with porcelain and soap-stones on the exterior.

My concern is, will the soap-stones on the exterior of the stones handle the increased heat if I replace the baffle with either firebrick or more porous stone ? If you have tried this and have soap-stones, please let me know.

 

[webby3650]

I really don't think using anything but the factory baffle is a good idea. First of all, there isn't much room above the baffle, so the bricks will take up too much room reducing draft. The weight will also cause the tubes to sag over time.
And why are you going through baffles? They last for many many years. Is the chimney sweep damaging it?

 

[Handsonautotech]

I would like to hear an update on this, I just ordered the firebricks myself. I am thinking of cementing what is left of my ceramic baffle to the bottom of the bricks to keep the reflectiveness the same. Anyone who tried this still around? Baffle is $116 from hearthstone and we are way to reckless to not be breaking it every 30 days. Heck we positioned the pieces together to seal it up temporarily and we still hit it and knock it out of place, so being more careful is not an option for us clumsy folks. It breaks for us when we try to do a full-on load at night and one piece of wood is not in all the way and we close the side door and it shoves that wood into the baffle. Or when trying to fit that last piece of wood on the top of the load. Again, you can tell me not to do these things till you are blue in the face, I am going to continue to try to stuff that box before bed... Would I be better to try to glue the broken ceramic baffle pieces to a flat piece of thick steel? Looking for strengthening baffle solutions, not "be more careful" or "my stove did not break so your should not either" solutions.

 

[begreen]

There is no glue to that I know of for that application, but maybe Hearthstone's stove cement would work? I too think that the bricks will restrict airflow, and what supports them?

Sounds like a stove with a larger firebox and a near bulletproof baffle might be a better long term solution.

 

[Handsonautotech]

There is no glue to that I know of for that application, but maybe Hearthstone's stove cement would work? I too think that the bricks will restrict airflow, and what supports them?

Sounds like a stove with a larger firebox and a near bulletproof baffle might be a better long term solution.

I would think the stove cement would do the trick, it doesnt have to be structural, just hold the old baffle to the firebrick long enough to set the entire assembly in.

I think a larger stove would just encourage me to stuff even more wood in. So far it has been p[erfect for our house, I just like to shove as much in there as I can sometimes.

I did break down and order another factory baffle, But I also ordered the fire brick. If I break the new baffle I will see what I can mnake of the fire brick. Would still like to hear from someone who has made a baffle before, even if it was for a different model stove.

The new baffle is no longer $60, I paid 126 after shipping

 

[begreen]

The firebrick would be 1" thicker than the baffle board. That could be too restrictive. Also, what would support the firebrick?

 

[Handsonautotech]

The firebrick would be 1" thicker than the baffle board. That could be too restrictive. Also, what would support the firebrick?

I think it was mentioned before, but the brick weighs very little, and it rests on cast iron front and back, same as the baffle. It is misleading looking at the baffle you think it rests on the pipes, but it does not, it rests on lips front and rear.

I wish the OP would show up and let us know how it worked out.

Someone else in a different thread added a flue control to their heritage and said it helped to keep some of the lost heat. I am nervous to try this as I would screw it up and over do it not watching temps close enough, but I think the way the brick/baffle sits inside the stove it does not interfere with the air flow out.

 

[Smoked]

My 2005 model did not have pins but my 2011 model did. I got 10 seasons out of one baffle and am pretty sure I jacked it up moving the stove. I am sure the fire can't lift the baffle but I do think in high draft situations, it may lift when you crack the door if not secured by pins or wire.

If I break another one, I will likely look at the bricks though.

I have some soapstone I picked up at a granite shop scrap yard....hmmm wonder how much heavier that is than bricks? Never mind, I am sure that is way heavier.

I kind of like the SS sandwich idea.

 

[Handsonautotech]

My 2005 model did not have pins but my 2011 model did. I got 10 seasons out of one baffle and am pretty sure I jacked it up moving the stove. I am sure the fire can't lift the baffle but I do think in high draft situations, it may lift when you crack the door if not secured by pins or wire.

If I break another one, I will likely look at the bricks though.

I have some soapstone I picked up at a granite shop scrap yard....hmmm wonder how much heavier that is than bricks? Never mind, I am sure that is way heavier.

I kind of like the SS sandwich idea.

My wife thought of using soap stone but would it not crack? Can it withstand direct firebox top temps?

On our stove the front most tube has a support bracket, maybe something new? I do not see weight being an issue for us.

My concern is will the firebrick or soap stone not reflect enough heat? That is why I am thinking of attaching the old broken baffle onto the firebrick maybe with glue just to get it set in place.

We also chatted about being more carefull with it but I am sure someone will eventually say "Oops... oh sh!*" and I would rather that not be during negative temp days.

 

[Handsonautotech]

My wife did a good job at installing the new baffle.



I am disappointed in the new baffle, see the big gap on the left.



This is as bad as the gap we had from our damage, not great for something I spent $100 or more.

I used a broken piece of the old plate on top of the new plate to seal the gap.



Here is a picture of the bracket that the firebrick mod would rest on in the front.



Maybe this was not on earlier models?

I still hope to hear from someone who has done a baffle mod.

Anyone put a flue damper on this stove?

Has anyone done any mods to this stove at all I would love to hear your experience.

Smoked something else I though about, if you used soapstone as a baffle would you have to wait 30 minutes to heat the soapstone before the secondaries would light?

The firebrick would be 1" thicker than the baffle board. That could be too restrictive. Also, what would support the firebrick?

The bracket pictured above is almost an inch tall and there is a tone of space above it. I almost with the firebrick would be tall enough to restrict the flue a bit but it would do nothing to the Flue.

 

[Handsonautotech]

I am bumping this post in hopes that someone who has done a baffle mod will see it.

 

[Handsonautotech]

Well, I think I messed my stove up some more tonight. I got it pretty hot not watching it during start up. Ee were watching the election when I smelled something bad. I was running some big flames, do not have a temp gauge yet unfortunately so do not know how hot. It looks like the entire baffle and secondary tube system slid back. The flue whole in front of the baffle looks bigger then I remember. I will try to remember to get picks tomorrow. If I had known this yhing was so easy to break I would have looked at something more resilient.

 

[Handsonautotech]

Could someone else with a heritage give me some pictures of their air tube system please, I really think our entire air tube system is out of place but I am not sure now exaclty how it should be. I was able to actually pick up the entire tube assembly tonight with my ash shovel but it was way too hot for me to do anything meaningful. My wife has been burning before I get home so I do not get a chance to mess with it. I asked her to run the heatr tomorrow so I can play with it but I am not sure how much I need to do.

Specifically i am looking for pictures of the gap between the front most tube and the door. A measuring tape or some other object to give a relative size idea would be awesome.

I will get better pictures myself tomorrow.

 

[GTA MS]

My wife did a good job at installing the new baffle.

View attachment 186681

I am disappointed in the new baffle, see the big gap on the left.

View attachment 186682

This is as bad as the gap we had from our damage, not great for something I spent $100 or more.

I used a broken piece of the old plate on top of the new plate to seal the gap.

View attachment 186683

Here is a picture of the bracket that the firebrick mod would rest on in the front.

View attachment 186684

Maybe this was not on earlier models?

I still hope to hear from someone who has done a baffle mod.

Anyone put a flue damper on this stove?

Has anyone done any mods to this stove at all I would love to hear your experience.

Smoked something else I though about, if you used soapstone as a baffle would you have to wait 30 minutes to heat the soapstone before the secondaries would light?



The bracket pictured above is almost an inch tall and there is a tone of space above it. I almost with the firebrick would be tall enough to restrict the flue a bit but it would do nothing to the Flue.

============

You are not alone in having trouble with the very expensive, flimsy baffle, on an otherwise wonderful stove.

After digging around on various forums, I've concluded that Hearthstone used to make the baffles WAY thicker. They were just sturdier back then, as far as I can tell. Now, they're expensive garbage, in my opinion. Despite my best efforts, I broke 2 of them. And, as you surmised, quality control on the new baffles is poor (as evidenced by the gap in your picture).

The fire brick modification works perfectly. I measured the area (and checked the dimensions of the old baffle). I used several fire bricks and had to cut a bit off the last one with a wet saw. Put them in place (they rest on front & back ledges). Make sure there are no gaps at all. My first effort left a gap on the edge. My second was a perfect fit.

The bricks do sit a little higher than the baffle, but I've detected no drop in performance. In fact, my stove operates BETTER than before because the fire bricks actually fit snugly, and the poorly-cut baffles always left a small gap on the edge.

In theory, the slightly smaller airway would slow down airflow, but, practically speaking, the hot air slips right up the chimney, like it's supposed to.

If you have any questions, I'll answer them if I can.

 

[begreen]

I'm wondering if this change will make cleaning easier. Can you move a brick aside for cleaning and then replace without opening the stove top?

 

[GTA MS]

The bricks are very easy to remove without disassembly. They work so well I haven't tried anything else.

If it ain't broke. . . .

 

[Newburnerwisconsin]

I was a little dismayed when I realized my Heritage was not burning to specs this fall. The beginning of my third winter using this stove. Telling signs were the faster speed at which logs were being consumed and difficulty getting the good, low recirculating burn from low settings. I had been through this once before at the end of my first season with the Heritage. I got a light and looked up at the baffle. A one inch hole was visible in the ceramic plate.

There ya go, thousands of dollars upgrading my stove to this real beauty and it broke down already, after one winter! Oh sure, it was probably my fault. I probably 'shanked' the baffle with my poker or 'rammed' in too much wood. Maybe it was all those times I started the stove by leaving the ash door open that weakened the baffle? So off to the hardware to get a tub of furnace cement. A temporary solution at best. Don't bother is my advice, because this ceramic baffle is a 1/4 inch of, to put it politely, pith and nonsense. To top it off, I found out that it costs $65+ to get a new baffle. Typical, really great, expensive stove, that requires a replacement part every season or two. The ridiculous thing is that Hearthstone would bother with a baffle made of this ceramic stuff because it is too delicate for service in a stove. Of course you're going to 'prang' your stove baffle every so often. I don't care for 'feline-footing' around delicate parts that I need to put to daily use. I read about a fella that got three years out of his Heritage baffle. When I remove mine, it fell apart like pie crust. Oh! oh! Winters comin'!

It is obvious that the part makes sense for the service techs at the stove shop because sooner or later your gonna need baffle replacement and that means $$$$ for them. Go look in your Hearthstone right now, I bet you got a hole in your stock baffle. I wasn't going to roll over for these guys down at the shop so easily and they are probably wondering why I haven't been in yet to get a new baffle? I tried a few materials such as heavy ceramic tiles and a piece of asbestos board. Don't bother. Then I found these fire bricks in my old stove that I hadn't taken in for the scrape money yet. They are 4 1/2 x 9 x 1/2 inches and can be purchased at the Home Depot, inexpensively if you don't have any in an old stove. They are durable to heat but a little brittle so careful not to ding or torsion them when handling. The bricks form my old stove are 18 years old.

http://www.homedepot.com/buy/buildi...rts-accessories/6-pack-firebrick-154421.htmlk

For the modification I used a cannister filter mask, safety glasses, a pencil, square and a grinder with a small metal / diamond, cutting / grinding wheel for masonry work available, at the hardware store. Just do a good job smoothing the sides of the bricks that you'll have to cut. After you fit the bricks in, you get a nice row of 1 1/2 inch thick firebrick for a baffle that is much more durable then the 'wafer' that the Heritage comes with. Stove works well again and I not so worried about paying for a stock, junk, baffle material that doesn't appear to be up to the job.

I'd be interested in details of other effective solutions to this Heritage baffle problem but, so far, the stove works well again. Also be interested in reasons why I shouldn't do this type of mod.

Does anyone realize that this thread has over 10,000 views? Wow! That a lot of burners. Hearthstone must have sold a lot of these stoves. I have wrecked a baffle too. I repaired it with stove cement. Seems to be fine now. I learned to just be more careful with my hearthstone.

 

[Handsonautotech]

Does anyone realize that this thread has over 10,000 views? Wow! That a lot of burners. Hearthstone must have sold a lot of these stoves. I have wrecked a baffle too. I repaired it with stove cement. Seems to be fine now.

============

You are not alone in having trouble with the very expensive, flimsy baffle, on an otherwise wonderful stove.

After digging around on various forums, I've concluded that Hearthstone used to make the baffles WAY thicker. They were just sturdier back then, as far as I can tell. Now, they're expensive garbage, in my opinion. Despite my best efforts, I broke 2 of them. And, as you surmised, quality control on the new baffles is poor (as evidenced by the gap in your picture).

The fire brick modification works perfectly. I measured the area (and checked the dimensions of the old baffle). I used several fire bricks and had to cut a bit off the last one with a wet saw. Put them in place (they rest on front & back ledges). Make sure there are no gaps at all. My first effort left a gap on the edge. My second was a perfect fit.

The bricks do sit a little higher than the baffle, but I've detected no drop in performance. In fact, my stove operates BETTER than before because the fire bricks actually fit snugly, and the poorly-cut baffles always left a small gap on the edge.

In theory, the slightly smaller airway would slow down airflow, but, practically speaking, the hot air slips right up the chimney, like it's supposed to.

If you have any questions, I'll answer them if I can.

I am glad to hear the bricks work. I have a box of them in the basement just need to make the time to install them.

For now we have the replacement baffle installed from Hearthstone. I did not tie it down so when I hit it with wood or a tool it just moves out of place and I have to reposition it when the stove is cold. This seems to have prevented it from breaking so far.

Do you do anything to hold the stones in place or just gravity amd friction?

 

[GTA MS]

Just gravity & friction. My first attempt left a tiny gap in one side, which leaked too much heat. When I cut a slightly wider brick, there was no leak, and the bricks were quite snug across the width of the stove. They've held in place ever since.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

[VirginiaIron]

My baffle looked like this prior to installing it. If the throat of the baffle opening is large enough to accommodate a 1/2 inch ceramic blanket, why cant the blanket be installed above these baffles?

 

[GTA MS]

My baffle looked like this prior to installing it. If the throat of the baffle opening is large enough to accommodate a 1/2 inch ceramic blanket, why cant the blanket be installed above these baffles?

I don't see why it couldn't. The bricks I installed fit together flush (no gap), so I didn't need a blanket.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

[VirginiaIron]

My baffle looked like this prior to installing it. If the throat of the baffle opening is large enough to accommodate a 1/2 inch ceramic blanket, why cant the blanket be installed above these baffles?

When I say large enough, I mean equal to or greater square inches than the square inch diameter of the vent pipe.