Please do not follow the advice in that video he asked lots of questions then argued against the answers and proceeded to ignore advice and codeI’ve seen those burner baffles and they look cool! I don’t have a welder or good fabrication equipment so I went this route. Everything inside the fire box is stainless including the burners, which were manufactured for gas fireplaces. The 1” main pipe is sch 40, and the burners are probably sch 10. So far they’ve held up quite well. The pipe outside the stove is sch 40 black steel to cut down on costs. It should hold up fine since it will never have contact with flames.
Here are the burners I bought. There’s no wood fume/air mixture happening in the pipes - they get preheated by the fire and spit out hot air into the firebox, igniting the gasses.
As mentioned before I plan to put a chimney liner on it later to increase draft. I’ll seal up around the top of the masonry fireplace with sheet metal and ceramic fiber insulation or rock wool since I know the 2” insulation behind the trim panels won’t seal perfectly, although it’s so far doing a decent job - plenty of suction once the chimney heats up after 25-30 min. Start the next video around 5:45 for a good demonstration of what I intend. I’d have to cut out the old damper and remove some bricks to get a 6” liner installed. Has anyone here done something similar? I’d still use the trim panels with 2” fiberglass insulation behind them as they’re installed now.
It was noted earlier that the fire looks just like any other fire in an old stove. I’ve done burns in this stove without using the pipes and it’s obvious to me there’s a lot of combustion from these tubes. The burns last longer and provide more heat (admittedly anecdotal). The space between the burners typically has flames fed by the main intake, which is why I’d like to add a 3rd burner so I can reduce the primary draft even more and have the entire underside of the baffle covered by burners.
I appreciate all the ideas! Good to hear other routes people have taken. This was a budget build and so far I’m happy with the results.
The best way is by fabricating a sheet metal plate with insulation above it. But many just use insulation. But the is for performance not safety. The fact he insists insulation isn't needed on the liner even though he has been shown it clearly is needed is a safety issue. The fact his stove is to far back and he can't completely close the air is another issueHow would one seal off the chimney stack? I’m open to advice.
Ok, so insulated liner and a sheet metal plate with insulation. Thanks.The best way is by fabricating a sheet metal plate with insulation above it. But many just use insulation. But the is for performance not safety. The fact he insists insulation isn't needed on the liner even though he has been shown it clearly is needed is a safety issue. The fact his stove is to far back and he can't completely close the air is another issue
I was referring to the video you posted as a reference which is a very poorly done install.Not sure to whom you’re referring by “everyone“ or how one would install this so that the controls aren’t reachable. I can’t imagine how one would install it sideways. Controls are all on the front of the stove. I installed it per the manual from the manufacturer. The only additional thing is the ball valve for the burn pipes, and that is out front as well. It’s all pretty clear from earlier posts, including pictures...
Fireplace manual for reference I’m retrofitting my old Lopi FL from the 80s and want to add a secondary burn and chimney liner. Any comments from the forum are most welcome. Outside surfaces will be painted with fireplace paint after modifications. So far I’ve used a wire wheel to get the rust...www.hearth.com
I've built secondary combustion tubes with half inch black iron, but you could use stainless if you want. Schedule 40 is the minimum gauge I would use. If you have a welder, my best attempt was with a double steel baffle plate. 2 plate steel baffles with about 1/2 inch space between them. Welded to spacer around perimeter. A flange on top for air inlet connection and holes drilled in rows in the bottom plate. I used the number and size of holes that was on the floor model at Home Depot. It was a top vent stove and I ran the black iron up the stack and out the side of pipe without modifying the stove. Took care of the baffle, preheating air and admitting air.
Pictures, no. This was well before I had a digital camera. I was traveling through Amish country in a '99 Land Rover I got in 2000, so that's about the time I came home and built it. I didn't have a phone until 2018!Do you have any pics of this?
Did you base this on another design you saw?
Did you use something to insulate above the baffle plate?
Any issues with running the airpipe out the exhaust pipe? I would think by narrowing the exhaust opening it speeds the gas past it up the pipe, but that may be contrary to the manufacturers specs. Is that a good idea?
I saw the new one you had drawings for. I may play with the unit I have to add more air. I have heard of people adding outside air so Im not pulling air out of the house.Yes, this adds more air into the firebox, or at least a new way for air to be fed in. There are primary air inlets below the door, airwash above it, and now the burn tubes. Most Lopi wood stoves follow the same design, but they combine the air controls into one handle. Because this was a retrofit I thought the easiest way to get it to work was to just add another inlet. I don't mind - it makes the stove look a little steampunk
When I turned on the reburn tubes I typically turned down the primary and secondary air inlets so most of what was burned was the smoke coming off the charred wood. I imagine adding a liner would have dramatically helped the way it operated, but honestly it did pretty well as it was. Once the masonry chimney got warm it drafted decently.
This system has been decommissioned, though. Sold it on Craigslist along with the liner kit I had purchased to improve draft, but we decided to remove the entire masonry stack to get back some more room in our living room upstairs (this stove was installed in the finished basement fireplace, which shared the same masonry stack as the upstairs fireplace; different flues). A 3'x5' open fireplace that was never used was just a waste of space. We're planning to build an alcove downstairs for a new Lopi Evergreen II and install a Class A chimney through the opening the old masonry left. Still get wood heat, but in a smaller, more efficient package with less floor real estate taken up in the house. I figure if I can heat the entire house in January on an inefficient draft in a slammer, the Evergreen II should do just as well.
Thread detailing the alcove build is here.
When you hook it up to a liner you probably won't need more air anymore. It will operate very differently when it actually has decent draft. I would hold off on any additional modifications untill it is installed properlyWinter is fast approaching an I should of been thinking of this months ago but I did not. I have been running the stove for years without a liner. I will be adding one. I have a lot of draft problems and the smoke backs up in the house. I will weld up a box to install over top of the damper so I can attach the liner to it. I am so curious about the pipe you installed in yours. Is that adding more air into the box? I always seen to have a need for more air in mine. sometimes I leave the door open just a little.
I am just wondering how you know you were getting a better secondary burn from the vermiculite board over the bricks. How could you tell the difference? I put bricks in my Country Striker but have the board and insulation in my shop but have not used it?awesome! any pics of it in operation?
I tried the firebrick baffle, then bought 1.5" thick vermiculite board and got a better secondary burn in my old Suburban.
Great job on this stove. I have been looking at all the pictures and noticed you nice welds on the stainless. It is always nice to put new life into an old wood stove.