Advice Needed... Liner installation

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Horsinaround

New Member
Jan 25, 2009
3
SW OH
Long time reader, first time poster...

I have read a ton on this site about the merrits of having a well insulated liner and have come to the conclusion that installing one in my chimney will improve performance and safety. I have a HighValley 2500 insert that is "slammed" into a stone fireplace that then vents up a 11" X 11" (inside dimension) terracotta flue. From the top of the insert to the top of the chimney is 33 feet. The stove outlet is a round 8 inch hole. The chimney runs up the outside of the house.

The chimney has two flues, one for the upstairs fireplace, and one for the one downstairs where the insert is.... with two flues in the chimney, there is a dog leg right above the damper that makes a hard right then goes straight up for about 15 feet then gradually moves back left and then straight up again so that both flues come out the top pretty close together.

I am inclined to do it myself, as it will save a mess of money and I will know what I have but have a couple questions that I am sure someone here can help with. I think that to have this done "professionally" (pay someone to do it) would be about $2000. From what I can see there is less than $1000 in material and several hours of labor. If I can get the advice I need here, then I am ahead.


An 8 inch liner with insullation will fit itn the existing chimney.... but how can I tell that the liner will make it down the dog legs in the chimney and to the top of the stove. I don't want to order $800 worth of stuff to then find out I can't get it down the chimney. I have searched and searched and not found anything to help me determine if the liner can make it through or not.

I will have to break/cut out the existing damper plate frame to allow the liner to fit up through. I understand that there are merrits of blocking off the remainder of the opening. Most say a block off plate is the way to go.... Some stuff the area with insulation. What about the castable refractory stuff. Any chance of that working? I think that by the time I have a hole busted for the liner to get through, a block of plate wouldn't end up being very effective as the hole won't be nice and square and getting it to stay in could be a pain.

What is the best source for the materials? Any watchouts?

Thoughts and advice appreciated. Please don't bash the previous slammed installation as that is what I am correcting.
 
Hey, Horsinaround...
Why not visit a local hearth shop & see if you can buy a short length of 8" ss liner fom them...
2' maybe...
They've probably got some left over from other installs...
If you can get THAT down the flue, then you should be able to get the full length liner down...
Just MY $.02, but it'll save you the big nut for the full 8" liner...
If it won't go, you may hafta downsize...
 
Good Idea. Maybe I could even go cheeper and get a the PVC drain pipe and see if I can pull that through. I don't really want to bust out all the damper until I know I can get something down to it.
 
Good Idea. Maybe I could even go cheeper and get a short section of the PVC drain pipe and see if I can pull that through. I don't really want to bust out all the damper until I know I can get something down to it.
 
An old adage will always be true...

"Measure twice, cut once."

One reline and insert I did had a front to rear offset, as usual... plus it went left to line up with the straight flu serving the oil burner in the basement. Used an 8 inch piece of flex that was ovalized... except for a little hang in the side to side transition it dropped right in.

But, before I cut or busted anything, I'd try it...

I might try one of the pulling cones on the end of a three/four foot piece of flex. Doesn't have to be the most expensive piece of flex made either... junk they ripped out to replace would work fine as long as it will hold together long enough to try it. If you can pull a piece of that brittle and eroded tinfoil down through there you can do it with a new one.


Horsinaround said:
Good Idea. Maybe I could even go cheeper and get a short section of the PVC drain pipe and see if I can pull that through. I don't really want to bust out all the damper until I know I can get something down to it.
 
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