Air Compressor Drain Valve
- Thread starter thewoodlands
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smokinj
Minister of Fire
smokinj
Minister of Fire
bogydave
Minister of Fire
I plumbed my drain out to where I can capture the water, & the valve is easier to access.
Remove the drain valve, put in a threaded brass 90°, some air hose, then the valve out where it easy to use. (a small ball valve)
If it's near an outside wall, after the valve, run a piece of hose or pipe thru the wall so it vents outside, (Save a mess)
Remove the drain valve, put in a threaded brass 90°, some air hose, then the valve out where it easy to use. (a small ball valve)
If it's near an outside wall, after the valve, run a piece of hose or pipe thru the wall so it vents outside, (Save a mess)
smokinj
Minister of Fire
'bert
Minister of Fire
Mine has an auto drain when the pressure get down below something like 20 psi, works well and I dont have to remember to drain it. Automatically closes back up when the compressor gets back to 30 psi or so.
A leak significant enough to keep your compressor from shutting off (one greater than cfm produced) you would surely be able to hear. Did you hear any leaks? Any chance your switch is no good?
Pineburner said:
It was working fine,just think when I unscrew this I went to far and the o-ring came off which allows the air to come out but I'll find out when I get the new part. I heard the leak plus had my hand underneath to feel the air coming out.
zap
TreePointer
Minister of Fire
Yeah, you're missing the o-ring on the far end.
I've only seen two different sizes of drain cocks on the popular air compressors. Around here, TSC and Sears keep both the 1/4" and 3/8" in stock. The nice thing is that the new ones come with thread sealer already on the threads.
BTW, I replaced the wing style drain cock with the gnarled round one and have had no issues.
I've only seen two different sizes of drain cocks on the popular air compressors. Around here, TSC and Sears keep both the 1/4" and 3/8" in stock. The nice thing is that the new ones come with thread sealer already on the threads.
BTW, I replaced the wing style drain cock with the gnarled round one and have had no issues.
When you stop using the compressor, and turn it off, the pressure would slowly bleed out, then the auto drain opens. Turn it back on, and it closes the valve when past set pressure. Only works on systems that are allowed to drain every now and then. The compressors and down legs on the system at my work have electric auto bleeds. Every 90 minutes they kick on for 15 seconds.
TreePointer said:
I'll take this drain plug in Monday morning to True Value an grab the o-ring.
Thanks
Zap
TreePointer
Minister of Fire
zapny said:
Good luck. I've been down that road with o-rings, and it's difficult to find an exact match. I tried individual rings and some from an assortment pack. There were rings that fit the groove, but they weren't shaped so as to make them fit into the valve outlet. In the end, I went to Sears and bought the $4.49 drain cock off the shelf. It's was an easy swap onto the compressor.
I would go the 90 degree street elbow, section of brass or galvo, (brass would be first choice for rust resistance), and a ball valve. 300 psi gas valve, not the lower rated water valve. Then run a section of poly tubing out the wall(or whatever) and be done with it. Rust build up in a compressor tank is a bomb waiting to happen.
Interesting. I don't turn my compressor off though. If I let it drain down to no pressure it would take a LONG time to fill (60 gal tank on compressor and then it's tied to a 30 gal tank in the garage.)
Pineburner said:
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