Bar/chain recommendation for an old 028

[Slow1]

I'm looking to get a new longer bar for my old 028 that I picked up this spring. It has a 16" Stihl bar that I put on it new shortly after buying it. The reason I'm looking to get a new bar is that I have some logs to cut that are closer to 38" diameter so 16" just won't cut it (literally).

I'm thinking a 20" bar. Now the question is this - I see that there are other bars besides the Stihl branded ones out there that claim compatibility. Any thoughts on these? Should I stick to Stihl for everything? How about the chain? I've been using just what the dealer suggested which is the basic green marked safety chain which I expect is for his safety of liability as much as anything.

Any recommendations? Any good places online to purchase that will save me $'s? Any 'gotchas' to look out for here?

Thanks in advance.

 

[kenskip1]

For a 028, I would not use anything longer than an 18 inch bar.This is my own opinion.With a 20 inch you will not only have a longer bar but a lack of oil. A longer bar requires a larger supply of oil. You are pushing it with anything over 18. Remember this saw is only 2.87 cubic inch. I have always used Stihl bars. Never had any reason to switch brands.I have a 16 on mine. Great saw, ken

 

[computeruser]

An 028 can pull a 20" bar OK from what others have said, but it won't be a speedy process. They're reasonably torquey saws, in spite of their size, which helps make the longer bar OK in a pinch, but they are definitely happier with a 16" bar.

Stihl bars can be very good bars (ES - the solid ones with replaceable tips) or good bars (E - the laminated ones which are much lighter). Oregon makes good bars, as does GB (can you still find them?), Total (shiny!), SugiHara, Windsor, Cannon, and others. Carlton likes to rebadge other people's stuff, but the results are usually acceptable. You can't go wrong with the Stihl bars, though, they'll definitely get the job done. My laminated bars are Oregon (well, and one old Carlton)and have held up fine to hard use and a few unplanned dives out of a tree, and my solid bars are a mix of Cannon, Oregon, and Windsor, and all have held up fine to all sorts of use.

For chain, I assume you're running .325" pitch chain on that saw, right? If so, you'll see a nice improvement in performance with something other than the Stihl safety chain (especially if it is the stuff with the bumpers on the tie straps). Stihl RS was my favorite, but I think they finally discontinued that in favor of RSC, which I hear is good. Oregon 20-series is nice and cuts a slightly narrower kerf than the Stihl chain, maximizing efficiency. And the stuff that Bailey's sells as WoodsmanPro is also nice. Whatever you do, though, you will want to get a round filed chisel chain instead of a semi-chisel, assuming your wood is clean. This will cut faster, and put less strain on the saw in the process. I also find it easier to file by hand - you clearly know when you have a sharp chain and when you don't, which I find harder with semi-chisel.

You can't go wrong with Bailey's. They've always treated me square and from what I hear they are great about fixing problems - the rare mistake, the item damaged in shipping, a defective product, etc.

 

['bert]

I debated putting a 20" bar on my 028, but decided a 18" was more within the abilities of the saw. Nice fit as far as power, balance & weight. I just bought the Stilh bar as choices are limited around here. Would do it again in a heartbeat.

 

[Slow1]

Thanks (especially ComputerUser) for the info!

I am still learning the terminology and specs of the chain. Honestly I'll have to go look at the packaging to know what pitch the chain is - I took the saw in and said "what do I need" and he slid a chain across the counter. Well, there was a little more discussion than that but it required about that much input from me. Actually the dealer was very nice as he looked over the saw and asked about the history etc then proceeded to show me the air filter (looked like it had never seen the light of day before, even after he knocked junk off it... he replaced it) so I learned that I should check it once in a while (unlike previous owner apparently). He also inspected the bar when I had the curve issue and quickly diagnosed that one and again, simply handed me a new bar. I asked about going longer then and he discouraged me from doing so saying that 16" was the right length for that saw. I expect he was (correctly) sizing me up as a guy who had never run a real saw who just picked up a really big toy. Thus my assumption is that everything is the 'safety' line of parts.

18" vs 20" - the reason I want the 20" is that I have a specific need today sitting on my lawn. My intent is to put this longer bar on just for these cuts, then put the 16" back on and save the 20" for the next time I need it. I realize this may seem like a lot for just a few cuts but I figure in the long run I will need it again and compared to the cost and trouble of having to go rent a larger saw I hope it will be worth it in the long run. Thus although I MIGHT get away with the 18" this time it would be a struggle on one or two cuts, in the long run the extra couple inches could come in really handy - I don't want to have to go and buy yet another standby bar.

 

[Gooserider]

I do a similar thing with my bigger Dolmar - 20" bar for normal use, 28" for those few jumbo logs that need it, so nothing wrong with that idea. At the same time I'm not sure it would be worth spending extra for a bar that probably won't see a lot of use, and it is a reasonably safe bet that if the bar maker says it will fit then it is OK with that saw.

Definitely go with the round file, full chisel chain, not the safety chain, it makes a BIG difference.... (and again, not a real need to pay a big premium for the Stihl name)

I have had really good luck dealing with Amicks, but also have heard lots of good things about Baileys. OTOH, he may be more expensive, but you might also do OK to support your local guy who sounds like he has been doing pretty well on getting you up to speed on chainsaw care and feeding...

Gooserider

 

[Danno77]

I threw a 20" on mine. I'll never look back, but I sure can see the value of keeping it smaller and only switching to the longer when it's needed.

Do I cut through a limb faster? nope. i'd call it just as fast as the shorter bar
Do i cut through an 18" log faster? yes, cause it takes one swipe
Do i cut through 18-32" any faster? nope, either bar requires coming at it from more than one side.
Do I cut through >32 any faster? well, i don't even need to answer this, lol.

Do I feel cooler when I'm using it? Heck yeah.

as a side note. if you buy a stihl chain, the labeling system can be confusing My Stihl dealer only carries a couple of the chains in the 20" bar. They tried to sell me the RSC chain as an aggressive kind of chain, it is, but the package said "oilomatic 3" and down below the number says 26RSC which matches the RSC in the book (and on the website) the one with Oilomatic 3 on the box really corresponds to the RSC3 on the website and in their book, which is a safety kinda chain. I haven't compared the two in actual cutting, but it cuts way better than the oregon chains I've used when i had an 18" bar on it.

(looks good with that 20" on there, doesn't it?)

 

[Danno77]

BTW, I should mention that the RSC that I got is a "comfort" chain (Rapid Super Comfort). Can anyone with experience tell me if it would be a significantly better cut to move to the RS chain? I didn't have that option in the store and this one cuts so fast that I'm not dying to have something better, but should I ever need another chain (I like to have a spare out with me) I might order one online.

I'm assuming that since I'm a weekend warrior and am only cutting and bucking about 3-4 cords a year that I don't need to get into skip chains? I'll take any advice I can get on this.

I'm not new to saws, but I've always just used the saw, cleaned it, bought a new oregon chain at Lowes if mine got dull, the basic really, so I'm only just getting into sharpening, understanding the differences in the bars, chains and understanding how much of a difference it can make for a saw. I used to think my BILs newer farm boss cut wayyy better than my 028 does, but now that i've got this new chain on there his doesn't even hold a candle to mine.

 

[Gooserider]

BTW, I should mention that the RSC that I got is a "comfort" chain (Rapid Super Comfort). Can anyone with experience tell me if it would be a significantly better cut to move to the RS chain? I didn't have that option in the store and this one cuts so fast that I'm not dying to have something better, but should I ever need another chain (I like to have a spare out with me) I might order one online.

I'm assuming that since I'm a weekend warrior and am only cutting and bucking about 3-4 cords a year that I don't need to get into skip chains? I'll take any advice I can get on this.

I'm not new to saws, but I've always just used the saw, cleaned it, bought a new oregon chain at Lowes if mine got dull, the basic really, so I'm only just getting into sharpening, understanding the differences in the bars, chains and understanding how much of a difference it can make for a saw. I used to think my BILs newer farm boss cut wayyy better than my 028 does, but now that i've got this new chain on there his doesn't even hold a candle to mine.

Skip chain is mostly for folks that are cutting really big rounds, and / or using bars that are longer than optimal for the given saw. If you are using an appropriate sized bar (3-4cc of engine per inch of bar) then you probably wouldn't have a need to use skip chain.

I'm not a Stihl expert, but what I've gathered the difference between RSC and RS chain is that RSC is supposed to be lower vibration, but it isn't a "safety chain" and should cut about equally as well as the RS. Seems most of the discussion I've seen had people liking the RSC, so I probably wouldn't switch.

And yes, doing proper chain selection and maintainence is the key to happiness with a chainsaw...

Gooserider