Bar maintenance.............

[WoodMann]

I guess more appropriately would be bar resurection; how ro re- even the guides where the chain runs so ya don't get a cut off to the left or right. I understand there are tools out there to do this. Any info is appreciated, as it would be nice not to have to get a new bar after over working the saw and bar on occasin.............................

 

[Henz]

I jsut bought a new bar for my Husky 357XP. 20"..Cost close to $60 I beleive.

 

[LLigetfa]

I put the bar in my bench vise and lay a coin or balance my raker file on it to see if it's perpendicular. If it isn't, I hold my raker file perpendicular against the edge and even them out. Before I set the file in motion, I run a few light passes at 45 degrees to chamfer the outside edges to remove any sharp wire burrs that could slice through leather gloves.

File away from the nose so you don't hit the sprocket and when you clean the filings out of the groove, watch you don't shove any into the sprocket. After you get it squared up, run a few light passes at 45 degrees to chamfer the outside edges again. It's just that easy.

 

[WoodMann]

Cool, getfa- sounds easy enough. Yeah, Adirondack- although I paid a less damaging $36 for my bar, it'd be easier on the pocket book of I could salvage the bar..............

 

[Gooserider]

Baileys makes two tools that are useful... From their home page, go to "chainsaw tools" and then "bar maintainance tools" and look near the bottom of the page... Other places may carry similar items, but these are the ones I know about...

Pferd edge sharpener dresses the rails so that they are even

Bar Rail Closer Closes the gap between the rails (they tend to spread apart and wear to more of a "V" shape, this closes them back up to a "U" shape)

Cost for both is about $35 plus shipping, or about one low cost bar... On the low cost bars, the nose sprocket may be one of the first thing to go, so they may or may not help extend your bar life all that much, but if you use the more expensive replaceable tip bars, they will definitely save you some money...

Gooserider

 

[jebatty]

I use both the edge sharpener and rail closer. Every change of chain, or when I notice burrs on the bar, the edge sharpener smooths the edges and files the top at the same time. Every change of chain I wiggle the chain on the bar, and if there is much side to side movement, time to use the rail closer. With a lot of sawing, the bar takes a pretty good beating.

EDIT: good idea to flip the bar over with ever change of chain, evens out the wear.

 

[WoodMann]

Thanks, goose. $35 is worth a trip into town; my time my gas, etc................

 

[Bigg_Redd]

I guess more appropriately would be bar resurection; how ro re- even the guides where the chain runs so ya don't get a cut off to the left or right. I understand there are tools out there to do this. Any info is appreciated, as it would be nice not to have to get a new bar after over working the saw and bar on occasin.............................

My local saw shop charges about $2.50 to true a bar, so I have no idea what one might need to do it oneself.

 

[Tony H]

I guess more appropriately would be bar resurection; how ro re- even the guides where the chain runs so ya don't get a cut off to the left or right. I understand there are tools out there to do this. Any info is appreciated, as it would be nice not to have to get a new bar after over working the saw and bar on occasin.............................

My local saw shop charges about $2.50 to true a bar, so I have no idea what one might need to do it oneself.

At that price and assuming they do a good job that would be my choice

 

[Kenster]

I guess more appropriately would be bar resurection; how ro re- even the guides where the chain runs so ya don't get a cut off to the left or right. I understand there are tools out there to do this. Any info is appreciated, as it would be nice not to have to get a new bar after over working the saw and bar on occasin.............................

My local saw shop charges about $2.50 to true a bar, so I have no idea what one might need to do it oneself.

At that price and assuming they do a good job that would be my choice

Tony, this is VERY old post. Not sure it does much good to respond to posts that are eight months old. I like to read old posts but never respond to them, myself.
You can see the date of the original post in the top line of box.

 

[southbound]

I guess more appropriately would be bar resurection; how ro re- even the guides where the chain runs so ya don't get a cut off to the left or right. I understand there are tools out there to do this. Any info is appreciated, as it would be nice not to have to get a new bar after over working the saw and bar on occasin.............................

My local saw shop charges about $2.50 to true a bar, so I have no idea what one might need to do it oneself.

Same here........