Best way to waterproof....

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lukem

Minister of Fire
Jan 12, 2010
3,668
Indiana
OK, here goes:

I have a small concrete room that is completely underground next to the house. This concrete room is accessible from the outside as well as the basement. I have a septic riser collar that sits around the outside access hole, currently covered with a PT 3/4" lid. I use this room for firewood storage as my stove is in the basement.

I had a helluva time getting the outside access hole sealed where the riser meets the roof of the room, but 5 tubes (joking) of silicon later it is now 100% waterproof. My next problem came when we had 3-4 days of steady rain and the wooden lid became saturated and began leaking.

Looking for some ideas on the best way to waterproof the lid, inexpensively. Lid is approx 30" (same as septic lid). First though was a piece of rubber roofing, but I'm having a hard time finding a scrap piece.

I'm sick and tired of the leaks and rework...want to do it right and be done with it forever.
 
Is the access hole flush with the ground, below, or above it?
 
Grace ice and weather shield. If it is above grade that is. If below grade ugl paint. or masonary sealer.
 
The lid sits about 2-3" above grade....the top of the riser is 1" above grade.
 
Fifelaker said:
Grace ice and weather shield. If it is above grade that is. If below grade ugl paint. or masonary sealer.

Being an underlayment, would that hold up to UV and whatnot?
 
lukem said:
The lid sits about 2-3" above grade....the top of the riser is 1" above grade.

So is it falling rain that's getting in or is it surface flow, or both?
 
maple1 said:
Can you build a new cover with a peak or slope on it?

Not really...it is round....and to get a slop the lid would get pretty big to easily remove to load wood.
 
Aluminum flashing?
 
Semipro said:
lukem said:
The lid sits about 2-3" above grade....the top of the riser is 1" above grade.

So is it falling rain that's getting in or is it surface flow, or both?

The lid lips over the riser, so it keeps the falling rain out. I think my problem is that with heavy rain the wood gets saturated and leaks through the wood (i.e. the bottom of the lid is wet).
 
I guess I'll go wander around Menards and see what comes to me...every once in while I'll get a good idea.

Rain coming tomorrow, so I'll just tarp it for now.

Still open to ideas.
 
You could try the shower section at a home improvement
store & get some of the heavy grade vinyl that is used between the
concrete layers in shower bases.
It comes 36" wide on a roll...If you need wider, they sell an adhesive
for the overlap. It's not too expensive, but I don't know how it'll hold
up exposed to the elements...
 
Dog house or even a decorative wishing well. Sounds like some sort of bomb shelter.
 
I use cool seal one gallon on mine. Still holding up fine 2006.
 
If you have any comercial roofers around look for sarnafil see if they would sell you a scrap piece.
 
I ended up buying a bucket of roofing compound for a few bucks. If that doesn't work i'll glue something on top of it. I think it will work because it is rated for roofs and foundations.
 
If a little is good a lots better does not always apply to liquid roof it is great when it works but sucks when it don't.
 
Highbeam said:
Dog house or even a decorative wishing well. Sounds like some sort of bomb shelter.

It was a room for pool heater and filter....pool is long gone now. Works great for storing firewood....just drive up and drop it in...holds about a cord tossed in....and since it is 100% concrete i don't have to worry about bugs.
 
Fifelaker said:
If a little is good a lots better does not always apply to liquid roof it is great when it works but sucks when it don't.

Yea, The first two coats where very thin. Once I got a coat on there it was easy and holding up very well. It comes in white thats why I used it.
 
A few coats of poly would work just fine.
 
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