big, cheap non-leaking valves?

[pybyr]

OK, this may be wishful thinking, but with all the collective/combined ingenuity here, I'd be dumb not to ask-

A "thinking ahead" question for when I get back to completing the assembly of my tank (and at this point the tank is taking a deliberate back seat to getting the boiler up and running, as the temperature drops, and so do oil tank’s gauge and the pile of small/ short wood that fits in the cookstove that’s my current sole wood appliance) ...

I realized that there is something that I should anticipate and seek some ideas on so that I can plan ahead for the tank’s final assembly and hook-up phase; here it is:

when I was having the tank fabricated, I had several extra 2" diameter threaded ports added, in addition to/ beyond the locations/ number that I could foresee needing-- because it cost hardly anything to have them thrown in, but would be a big problem to have more added later after the system was in use

I'd originally, until recently, been planning to put pipe plugs in those spare ports

I realized today that those spare ports on the tank could open up some interesting options such as tying in a "drainback" solar or even drainback radiant system (for occasional heat to locations that can be subject to freezing.

but in order to do that, if I ever want to experiment with such things, I need valves, not plugs, on those ports, so that I could tie new things in without needing to drain and refill 1200-1300 gallons of water in order to connect into those ports.

gate valves that size, or even somewhat smaller but non-restrictive sizes will be expensive, and I've heard of too many instances of problems with leaks. Ball valves shouldn't leak, but will be expensive as heck in this sort of diameter

I need a pair of valves to fit this bill; I might be smart to do four if folks here can help me come up with a solution that is unlikely to leak or jam but that won't be cost prohibitive, as that (two on the "known" ports in addition to the "future" ports) might help in circumstances where I may need to work on the plate HX arrangement

the tank will _only_ have the pressure of the weight of the water within the tank itself, so the PSI requirements for the valves will be far less than most applications- but any valve will of course also experience a lot of thermal changes as the tank goes back and forth between 50 and 200+/- degrees F at various points (I hope to eventually push near 200, time will tell whether the rest of my system and a 70-plate HX will cooperate in that)

anyone have any creative suggestions on valves that are unlikely to leak but won’t cost an arm and a leg (or some other device or technique so that I can not have the tank drain out all over if I go to hook new things up to the spare taps)?

Thanks, as always.

 

[sdrobertson]

The 2" ones will be expensive. Depending on the application - could you reduce them down to a smaller size and then put on shut-offs. You may have some on hand and in the event in a couple years you want to do something else, the smaller diameter might work and if not, you will only have to go back to your original plan and drain the tank.

 

[rickh1001]

Pybyr,

I agree with sdrobertson. Even if you are using 2" for the main boiler, the potential future inputs, especially solar, certainly won't be needing such large piping. Why not reduce down towards what the added inputs might require - I would guess no larger than 1" for most, and reduce and plumb up stubs and shut off valves at those diameters?

Also, I did the same as you, and tried to anticipate future expansion. At some point though, my head started to hurt, and I realized some projects, such as the solar panels I plan for next summer, will require their own specifics. I agree 100% to try to think ahead as far as possible. However, at some point, all you can do is add in as much flexibility as possible, but figure you might have to drain the system next summer to add in new stuff you hadn't thought of before. I did add stubs after extending the supply and return pipes, along with shutoff valves, so I can add more zones during the winter, without having to shut down the entire system. Right now, I am seeing that my plenum HX's are a little on the small side (I know you have posted that you had bigger ones made - so you should be fine). However, I think I am going to start to put in radiators (preferred) or baseboard fin/tubes, to better utilize lower water temps and move the heat more accurately to where I need it in the house. Putting in the stubs will let me modify and add to the heat distribution over the winter without a lot of drama. Beyond that, it is impossible to forsee every new thing you are going to want to do down the road. But I sympathize with you, as I felt the same way when building the plumbing for mine. At some point though, you just have to go with what you got, and figure the future out later.

 

[pybyr]

thanks- the 2 inch flanges on the tank weren't any real cost difference from smaller, so, I applied my tendency that anything that is worth doing is worth maybe overdoing, unless there's a reason not to (at moments, that includes thinking ) but you're right, spending time, thought or $ too far out of what you can anticipate with clarity gets into diminishing returns.

 

[Dave T]

I bought Watts 1 1/2 thread full port ball valves(brass) from the local supplier for $25.00 each..Dave

 

[leaddog]

http://stores.ebay.com/Gas-Valves-Plus
I;ve bought valves from here and he has great prices on 1-1/2 in and 1-1/4in ball valves now. He combines shipping so you can get several for one low shipping price. good quality.
leaddog

 

[pybyr]

http://stores.ebay.com/Gas-Valves-Plus
I;ve bought valves from here and he has great prices on 1-1/2 in and 1-1/4in ball valves now. He combines shipping so you can get several for one low shipping price. good quality.
leaddog

thanks- as long as shipping is still reasonable, you just gave me the solution that will save me a pile of cash