BK Stove installation, flooring questions.

[Hass]

I'm installing a BK Chinook shortly.

However, I'm currently placing in the subfloor in my gutted house.
The joists were all rotted, so every one of them was replaced with 2x8x20' PT 16" OC. Supported from below every 5ft.

I am looking at doing a flush hearth, the subfloor is 3/4" (23/32) Ply. There's no underlayment, the flooring is going right on top of the subfloor.
What is the best way to do a flush hearth with this type of set up?

I'm thinking to sister up the joists for saftey, add a ton of blocking... Place 1/2" Ply where the hearth sits, followed by wonderboard, then tile the top of that.
That should get me somewhat flush with the floor.
I'm just using cheap laminate (pergo or similar), for the flooring for the time being. My concern actually, is how do you get the laminate flooring to blend in nicely with the tile?
I was looking at flush mount hearth pictures, and it seems like people just would grout all the way to the laminate floor. Is that the recommended thing to do?


Is 1/2" Ply + wonderboard good enough to hold the weight over the years? I imagine it would be provided I did enough blocking underneath it.
I may have to shrink it down to 1/4" or 3/8" Ply after I crunch some final numbers... But then I would start losing some sleep.

 

[My Oslo heats my home]

couple questions...**the replaced joists, the runs are 20' long and supported every 5', how is this support done? Is there a basement under this floor or a crawlspace? I'm just curious because that long of a run for 2x8 that are PT has me thinking...and why the PT? Pt is supposed to be in contact with concrete, earth or steel to be used within a home.
**Is the 1/2" ply and wonderboard (or tile backer) going to bring your hearth level up to the 3/4" your looking for to meet your rooms finished floor?

As far as weight, my inspector had me put in 2 lolly supports on my install directly under my stove. I have 2x8 (true to size) construction on an 1880 farmhouse.

To blend your hearth to the main floor you may consider a boarder of something that will go well with both and compliment each other, something along the lines that go with the tile your using with the hearth. My hearth is slate with a brick boarder that meets my fir flooring.

 

[Hass]

Support is with piers every 4' below frost, with 6"x6" PT boards running along them.
No basement, it's a "crawlspace" There's no access, there's maybe 8" of air space between the bottom of the joist and dirt. Obviously there's a vapor barrier on the dirt.

PT never hurts, you can use PT to frame your walls as long as you use the recommended fasteners. It's just totally unnecessary.
The joists are PT because the top of the joists are maybe even with grade, maybe slightly under, I really don't know. But I do know it's definitely not 6" above grade (everything 6" above grade or less requires PT, which includes the sill/rim, etc.. (Actually, my rim joists were completely rotted out on one side of the house, I honestly have no idea how the house was still standing as well as it was)

Honestly, I didn't even know inspectors were involved with the framing of the hearth. I figured it was just the final inspection. I probably should call up my town and see what they require. The previous owner used plywood with no ember protection as their hearth... so either they didn't get it inspected, or my town doesn't care lol.


and yes, 1/2" ply + wonderboard + tile should bring it up to level.
I've numbers to crunch once I decide on the flooring, so I may switch to 3/8"

 

[My Oslo heats my home]

My inspection was a typical stove inspection, he checked the entire install against my manufacturers specs. That all was no problem, his concern was the stoves weight on the old (not quite 16" OC framing) 2x8 joists. He asked me to put in a couple lollys to help support the stove weight.

I Gotcha now with the PT and the crawlspace. I'm not sure if you still have access to the crawlspace anymore, if so maybe some additional support if the stove is not going be on an outside wall. Other than that it looks like your in good shape.

 

[nate379]

While flush might sound nice, I would actually make the pad 8-10" tall to lift the stove up off the ground. My pad is only about 3" tall and I end up having to light fires and load it by kneeling down which is kind of a pain.

I almost made mine flush and I'm glad I didnt.

 

[Hass]

I would like it raised up, but the stove is going to be located in the living room/dining room of my house, which is 10'x34'
So if the stove has the hearth sticking out 45-46 of those inches, that's half walkspace, which equals many stubbed toes.
The house was like that with a hearth of maybe 6" or so.

quite painful, and you never seem to stop doing it.
So I choose flush mount ;p

 

[Hass]

https://www.blazeking.com/EN/wood-chinook.html brochure.

It requires an ember protection shield, with no required insulation value and says specifically it is not meant to be a heat protective coating. (page 12)
Does that mean I can just use 1/4" cement board, of whatever brand I choose?
1/4" would make my life many, many times easier!

 

[nate379]

Sounds about right.

My pad is 2 layers of 1/4" cement board and then tile on top of that. The stove installer said it was WAY overkill... which is fine by me. Under the pad is the laminate flooring, but I have concrete under that too so really would be hard to for the floor to burn.