Blaze King OAK Question

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Hiram Maxim

Minister of Fire
Nov 25, 2007
1,065
SE Michigan
I'm confused how the Outside air connection is supposed to hook up to my stove? :roll:

Is there a square adapter that I need to get from BK?

Thank you,Hiram
 
Yes, you'd need to buy an adapter from BK. I ran a 4" line to mine, but I haven't hooked it up yet. I don't really want to pay BK for such a simple adapter, so I was going to fab a piece or see if HD/Lowes carries something that might work.
 
Wet1 said:
Yes, you'd need to buy an adapter from BK. I ran a 4" line to mine, but I haven't hooked it up yet. I don't really want to pay BK for such a simple adapter, so I was going to fab a piece or see if HD/Lowes carries something that might work.

Wet,

As always,I appreciate your reply.

Yeah,That's a little disappointing that its designed that way.

Any idea what the cost from BK is?

Also......I wonder if it will be airtight?

Thank you,Hiram
 
Hiram I just picked up a OAK for my princess from my dealer 75.oo
I looked around first for something at hardware and home improvement places but wasnt able to find anything to satisfy my anal need for things to be just right
The kit is pretty nice... it comes w/adapter to the stove,flex pipe to the floor... a floor flange that goes from 3in to 6in pipe and all the necessary clamps and screens to make it critter proof
I hope to install it in the next week or so and will update on what I learn btw it looks to be a pretty airtight system
 
You guys out west get all the bargains... They want $100 here and that's the cheapest. How much flex pipe do they provide?
 
The flex runs from the stove adapter to the floor collar and therefore is fairly short 2'......... from the floor plate down is 6" rigid and it appears to be close to 2' as well
the kit comes w/clamp,screws etc to do the job to bks credit also comes w/parts for classic and parlor models (mine is the ultra so i dont need them)
parts list includes two back locking brackets and a front locking bracket for the install on the classic( I havent quite figured out what the brackets are for but mabe it makes sense to you having the classic model)btw I paid 83.00 i just looked at my invoice.
 
My kit is on the way so I'll figure it out soon enough. 2ft of 3 inch flex then bumps up to 6 inches WOW.
 
I wouldnt run mine without it. I also made a sorta P-trap to stop the natural convection of cold air dropping right at the bottom near the connector. Make sure you insulate. Enjoy your new stove.
N of 60
 

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North - How high does your OAK go before going outside? I have to go up about 3.5 ft to get above the ground, is that going to be a problem?

What type of insulation do you have around the oak?
 
56" or 4ft 8" to Center of outlet from finished floor. Foil back 1 1/2" insulation (by Knauf) with 3M foil tape. Not the prettiest but an inch of Ice would be uglier. ;-) My stove is also in the basement.

P.S. A fellow could always cover it up with PVC covering that Pipe insulators use and paint it to match whatever.
 

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Gentleman,

Thanks for your reply's and great information.

My oak will go straight down into the basement then about 25' to the nearest wall to exit the outside of the house.

it opens to 6".......holy cow!

Guess I will have to rethink my PVC needs? :eek:hh:

PS: I did my first "break in" yesterday................
 
Sorry for the late reply, but I was also told about $100 from a local dealer and about $75 from a dealer out west. Either way, I'm not paying that. I ran a 4" line to mine, I just need to make an adapter to go from my 4" to the rectangular input... I'm sure I can fab something in a few munites and I know it wont cost me $100 to do it!
 
Thanks North, that's one nice looking stove there....


Hiram - Did you do the break in fire inside or outside? If inside Welcome to the stink yourself out club :-S

You should be able to extend the 3 inch section to what ever length you need then just use the flange at the wall exit. You can pick up a decorative ring of something to dress up the hole in the floor.
 
Wet1 said:
I just need to make an adapter to go from my 4" to the rectangular input...

Have you tried an electrical supply house? Seems like they should have something like that intended for conduit.
 
learnin to burn said:
Thanks North, that's one nice looking stove there....


Hiram - Did you do the break in fire inside or outside? If inside Welcome to the stink yourself out club :-S

You should be able to extend the 3 inch section to what ever length you need then just use the flange at the wall exit. You can pick up a decorative ring of something to dress up the hole in the floor.

I did it outside!

Learned my lesson with the Englander in Dec 07......P U :-S

I'm going to do another this evening.

Looks like I may end up fabricating something myself.

$100 is pretty steep IMHO for a box of sheet metal. I Have a machine shop and access to a tig welder so I'll give it a go. :cheese:
 
Thanks for the idea S&W. No I haven't looked into it yet. The OAK is really at the bottom of my to-do list, but it will have to be addressed. When the time comes I'll check around to see if I can find something that will work, but if it comes down to it I can always knock some tin myself.

Has anyone checked to see if they sell just the rectangular adaptor itself rather that the entire kit (which some of us don't need or want?) I'd pay up to $20 for it, but I just flat out refuse to spend $75+ for that single piece...
 
I found this picture of the Blaze King outside air kit .... Just wanted to share! :cheese:




http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/16196/DSC05226_(Custom).JPG
 
north of 60 said:
I wouldnt run mine without it. I also made a sorta P-trap to stop the natural convection of cold air dropping right at the bottom near the connector. Make sure you insulate. Enjoy your new stove.
N of 60

I had a similar up the wall OAK setup for my basement install but could not keep the cold air pushing into the stove even with a large U and damper in the line. I ended up taking it off cuz it cooled off the stove at the end of the burn.
 
Lanning said:
Why a OAK for the BK.

Do they make one for the BKPI?

Lanning,
Because I just spent the last 5 months sealing up the house and dont want to use inside air for combustion. ;-) Why send heated house air up the chimney? I believe the out side air makes the stove more efficient in every respect.

My buddy 2 streets over just picked up a BK princess insert yesterday and I was going to ask You the same question.lol

Edit: No, insert does not have a direct outside air connection.



Todd,

Yeah my oak will be below the stove.....so I think I will be ok!
 
Here is my OAK setup. I still have to insulate and put a cage on the outside but it works. The hook up to the stove is a flat steal plate that has a 3" connection on it. You should be able to see in the first 2 pics the edges of the plate are bent up to seal it. I then ran the flex line 15' across the floor and through a wall into an unfinished space for utilities, then up a few feet to exit through the cinder block wall. Last pic is the steel plate attached to my outside wall with a short section of 6" pipe. You can see the flex pipe in the center of it. I'm planning on trimming the 6" up a bit to provide a Traffic signal look to protect the 3 inch section from weather and then put a screen on it to keep the varmints out.
 

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Learning,

Do you notice any difference with the OAK installed?

Also, does anyone have a picture of just the plate that attaches the hose to the stove (not installed in/on the stove)?
 
I just got the oak to the outside last night so I don't have any real result aside from there is a lack of cold air rushing past my legs while sitting here reading the forums.
 
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