Breckwell Big E Clearances & Install Tips

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bonesy

Feeling the Heat
Oct 6, 2011
299
NE PA
Looking at the info on the Breckwell site and in the Big E manual, it looks to read that the rear of the Big E only needs one inch clearance. However in the diagram they have, the spacing looks to be more then one inch when compared to where it shows the 3" clearance between the stove pipe and the wall if using vertical venting. Is the drawing not to scale, or do they mean one foot for rear clearance?

Also, I will be installing horizontally directly through the garage wall. Only about 24" of total vent pipe. What is used to connect/seal the 3" vent pipe to the outlet of the stove? Any special adapter?
 
Digging thru some older manuals I see its been like this since 2004(as far as I can go back). So one inch doesn't look like a misprint. AFAIK, you can touch the back of it even on high. Not much heat back there. IMHO 1" would be hard to do anyways. You'll need to add the clearance to the wall and stove for the vent pipe depending on the brand of pipe your using, Plus its overall diameter. Don't be shy here! Give it some room to work on back there. Or every time you need to tinker, you'll have to pull the stove out. A more critical thing is make sure you don't have a seem inside the wall thimble.

There is no rule for how far you can go out, Just that you can't get too close to objects in front of it. Place it where you feel you can easily maintain it and worry more on the front end clearances where it truely gets real hot to touch!
 
You need an appliance adapter and some high temperature sealant, and what ever else the vent manufacturer says to use.

For clearances you need to use a combination of the vent manufacturer's and the stove manufacturer's. In the vertical vent case there is likely to be close to a foot from the wall to the stove, between how far the adapter sticks out, the depth of the clean out T, and the vent clearance to combustibles ( wall in this case).

Much less if a horizontal setup.
 
Thanks for the quick replies, what kind of appliance adapter, I found a DuraVent 3" adapter at HomeDepot.com. I am not worried about room to work, it is in a garage and needs to be as close to the wall as possible without being a safety issue, need all the room I can get in the garage. If I need to work on it i'll just pull it out from the wall. I am planning on using Simpson DuraVent 3" straight out through the garage wall with a cap on the end.
 
You need the adapter made by the vent manufacturer, the vents as a general rule are not interchangeable.
 
jmbones said:
Thanks for the quick replies, what kind of appliance adapter? I am not worried about room to work, it is in a garage and needs to be as close to the wall as possible without being a safety issue, need all the room I can get in the garage. If I need to work on it i'll just pull it out from the wall.

Ah, Solid fuel burning stoves in a garage is a safety issue. Might want to check local building codes before you proceed.

If aproved to keep it as close as possible put the pipe on the outside of the dwelling. Drill hole in wall to match stove outlet. If you plan on a tee put it outside. Connect the length of pipe to stove and Then just slide the stove up to the wall. Go out and install whats planed for the outside. I think what they are saying is you can go down to 1 inch, But thats minimum. So give it an inch or 2 more to be well within spec. If the walls are combustable that is. Masonary isn't combustable so no issues there.
 
j-takeman said:
jmbones said:
Thanks for the quick replies, what kind of appliance adapter? I am not worried about room to work, it is in a garage and needs to be as close to the wall as possible without being a safety issue, need all the room I can get in the garage. If I need to work on it i'll just pull it out from the wall.

Ah, Solid fuel burning stoves in a garage is a safety issue. Might want to check local building codes before you proceed.

If aproved to keep it as close as possible put the pipe on the outside of the dwelling. Drill hole in wall to match stove outlet. If you plan on a tee put it outside. Connect the length of pipe to stove and Then just slide the stove up to the wall. Go out and install whats planed for the outside. I think what they are saying is you can go down to 1 inch, But thats minimum. So give it an inch or 2 more to be well within spec. If the walls are combustable that is. Masonary isn't combustable so no issues there.

Thanks. I will be going directly out of the stove and straight through the wall as you mentioned. No vertical, just a cap on the end with the required distance from the wall on the outside. I am not aware of any codes where I am for this, the garage is attached and up to all other current national building codes when the house was built 2 years ago.
 
Another item you "Must" watch out for is the OAK tube on the back of the bigE sticks out a bit. Don't push the stove up to close as you will block it. The stove will burn for beans if you do!

Also remember no seams in the thimble(I think I said that already) and seal all indoor seams to reduce leaks. Duravent piping has been known to leak at the joints! I recommend to seal both the internal and external to keep the possibility of leaks to a minimum. On the stove adapter, There is a gap between the outer wall and the inner wall. Fill that full of silicon too!
 
Good tips. Is the outside air recommended for a garage? Even though the garage is new and attached to the home, I don't think it is that airtight. Since we're going in and out of it in the morning and afternoon. I guess I'll find out?
 
NFPA 211 12.2.3 Solid fuel appliances shall not be installed in any location where gasoline or any other flammable vapors or gases are present.

NFPA 211 12.2.4 solid fuel appliances shall not be installed in ANY garage.


It does apply

Eric
 
kinsman stoves said:
NFPA 211 12.2.3 Solid fuel appliances shall not be installed in any location where gasoline or any other flammable vapors or gases are present.

NFPA 211 12.2.4 solid fuel appliances shall not be installed in ANY garage.


It does apply

Eric

I really hate to bring this up but unless the controlling code in the OP's jurisdiction incorporates without exception those NFPA sections, those sections mean nothing.

I happen to agree with those sections, but to be truthful, those are not mandatory in all jurisdictions.
 
Yea..we don't have code enforcement here, or codes for that matter. Plus it'd be the same in the basement for about 85% of homes. How else do they expect you to heat a garage? Solar power? lol
 
jmbones said:
Yea..we don't have code enforcement here, or codes for that matter. Plus it'd be the same in the basement for about 85% of homes. How else do they expect you to heat a garage? Solar power? lol

Be careful there, in the absence of local stuff frequently state level rules come into play.

Waste oil or any other liquid fueled means.

The issue with solid fuel is that it can not be extinguished and the unit cooled off fast enough and that they are almost always on and have an open flame.
 
I am going with the Simpson Duravent 3" thimble. When I cut the hole, should it just be open air around the thimble for the entire size of the hole? I think it's 7 or 7.5".

Also, anyone using the Big E, how does the ash fall and/or get cleaned? Do I need to go in there and scrap it all the time or vaccum it or does it flow out?
 
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