Chainsaw won't disengage.

[sapratt]

I was given a chainsaw it runs good but the chain won't disengage. I start it up and the chainsaw starts to
rattle then engages. If I lock the bar the chainsaw stalls. The chain is not to tight and it doesn't idle to fast
Anybody have an idea on whats wrong?

 

[ANeat]

Just a wild guess without looking but sounds like the centrifical clutch is stuck, broken spring or springs perhaps

 

[smokinj]

What saw you have?

 

[sapratt]

It's a Homelite d3850b with an 18in bar. Is that what causes the clutch to stick is broken springs?

 

[smokinj]

It's a Homelite d3850b with an 18in bar. Is that what causes the clutch to stick is broken springs?

Cant find that model# any wighting on it like "super ez" "EZ" It probably is the clutch trying to get a blow up pic of it.

 

[sapratt]

I'll try to get a picture. It may not be up until tomorrow because I do not know how to put pictures on to the computer with our new
camera. I tried doing research on that saw and I can't find much info on it.

 

[smokinj]

I'll try to get a picture. It may not be up until tomorrow because I do not know how to put pictures on to the computer with our new
camera. I tried doing research on that saw and I can't find much info on it.

I was talking about giving you a blow up pic of the clutch with part#'s just need to know if here is any wrighting on the saw like EZ or super EZ or Super ez ao....

 

[sapratt]

Sorry about that I thought you wanted a picture. No there is no other writing on the saw just d3850b it has a 38cc engine.

 

[smokinj]

Wow this is a tough one very limited info anywhere on this saw....What I could find here not worth much...Good news is pop the thing apart and is if anything jumps out at you. Clutch should be right there. (outboard clutch) post some pic's of it

 

[jtakeman]

Could just be over idling. Try turning down the idle(its free). I bought a tach for my saws when I did my cutting. Good tuning tool to set the max RPM as well. If the saw stalls and the chain is still engaged its most likely the clutch. And I would say broken or week springs is the cause.

I had to think about this one, Been a long time since I had the pleasure of tuning a saw.

 

[smokinj]

Could just be over idling. Try turning down the idle(its free). I bought a tach for my saws when I did my cutting. Good tuning tool to set the max RPM as well. If the saw stalls and the chain is still engaged its most likely the clutch. And I would say broken or week springs is the cause.

I had to think about this one, Been a long time since I had the pleasure of tuning a saw.

First post "The chain is not to tight and it doesn’t idle to fast"

 

[jtakeman]

Could just be over idling. Try turning down the idle(its free). I bought a tach for my saws when I did my cutting. Good tuning tool to set the max RPM as well. If the saw stalls and the chain is still engaged its most likely the clutch. And I would say broken or week springs is the cause.

I had to think about this one, Been a long time since I had the pleasure of tuning a saw.

First post "The chain is not to tight and it doesn’t idle to fast"

Notice the it's free. Some people think it's not to fast, When maybe it's just a bit hi. I will guarantee most can't tell the difference of 1000 rpms on a saw. That's enough to engage the clutch sometimes. The Homelite's have been know to have low rpm engagement. Get a tach and check it out. But its an outboard clutch so he can see if the clutch is broke anyway.

I spent a long time with these saw's. Used to be my living. Stihls anyway. But I got to play with the other Orange brands once in a while.

 

[smokinj]

Could just be over idling. Try turning down the idle(its free). I bought a tach for my saws when I did my cutting. Good tuning tool to set the max RPM as well. If the saw stalls and the chain is still engaged its most likely the clutch. And I would say broken or week springs is the cause.

I had to think about this one, Been a long time since I had the pleasure of tuning a saw.

First post "The chain is not to tight and it doesn’t idle to fast"

Notice the it's free. Some people think it's not to fast, When maybe it's just a bit hi. I will guarantee most can't tell the difference of 1000 rpms on a saw. That's enough to engage the clutch sometimes. The Homelite's have been know to have low rpm engagement. Get a tach and check it out. But its an outboard clutch so he can see if the clutch is broke anyway.

I spent a long time with these saw's. Used to be my living. Stihls anyway. But I got to play with the other Orange brands once in a while.

Best I can find on this saw if it has adjustments it probably not going make much difference..kinda reminds me of a mac 3216 once you get it adjusted to run right it will for a few then another issue will pop up...over and over.

 

[Cowboy Billy]

I would be looking for a broken clutch spring or some forien object stuck in the clutch. Or maybe even a rusted up or siezed needle bearings on the clutch.

Billy

 

[sapratt]

When I start it everything is fine then the saw starts making a bunch of noise and running kinda rough. Then the chain engages and the saw runs fine. When
I first got the saw it ran good then I cut a bunch of wood up a while back and thats when it started. I thought maybe the clutch was hot because I ran it for
so long and thats why it was doing it. I used it the other day and before I started cutting the chain engaged. I'll take a look at the clutch today and see it anything
it broke.
Thats the wierd thing about this saw I've tried finding info on the saw and its like it doesn't exist.

 

[smokinj]

When I start it everything is fine then the saw starts making a bunch of noise and running kinda rough. Then the chain engages and the saw runs fine. When
I first got the saw it ran good then I cut a bunch of wood up a while back and thats when it started. I thought maybe the clutch was hot because I ran it for
so long and thats why it was doing it. I used it the other day and before I started cutting the chain engaged. I'll take a look at the clutch today and see it anything
it broke.
Thats the wierd thing about this saw I've tried finding info on the saw and its like it doesn't exist.

Your right "no man" very little out there, I have manuls on almost evey saw 1998 and before, so I know it was built after that. Ebay has very few items on this saw. May be a good idea to post a few pic's of the saw and the clutch and it maybe a copy of another saw made. (cross reference) It could be a simply fix.

 

[YZF1R]

If not a broken spring then maybe a bad needle bearing or plain bearing or whatever your saw has. I'm not saying you don't, but do you lube the clutch bearing?

Steve

 

[ANeat]

Thats the wierd thing about this saw I've tried finding info on the saw and its like it doesn't exist.

Just put "Homelite d3850b" into Google and plenty of info comes up

Its a flippin chainsaw, and it was given to you, take it apart and explore

 

[smokinj]

Thats the wierd thing about this saw I've tried finding info on the saw and its like it doesn't exist.

Just put "Homelite d3850b" into Google and plenty of info comes up

Its a flippin chainsaw, and it was given to you, take it apart and explore

Good call much better hit than yahoo

 

[LLigetfa]

If it is a weak/broken spring, the chain should still be able to move by hand with the engine off (and plug wire removed). If it is a seized clutch, moving the chain by hand would turn over the engine. Either way, like Aneat said, take it apart. It won't fix itself by just talking about it.

 

[sapratt]

Well I tore it apart and the spring is not broke. I did notice the bearing that was mentioned. That was dry I'm going to try lubing that and that doesn't fix it.

 

[smokinj]

Looks like you need some ne clutch parts.

 

[sapratt]

I lubed the bearing it seamed to help a little. Now when I lock the bar the saw doesn't stall like it did before.
Maybe if I keep messing with that bearing I can get it loosened up more, If that doesn't ork I'm going to look ing replacing it or that cover
not sure if just the bearing can be replaceed.

 

[smokinj]

I lubed the bearing it seamed to help a little. Now when I lock the bar the saw doesn't stall like it did before.
Maybe if I keep messing with that bearing I can get it loosened up more, If that doesn't ork I'm going to look ing replacing it or that cover
not sure if just the bearing can be replaceed.

The parts list and #'s are listed looks like you can just repalce the bearings.

 

[sapratt]

I looked at the list you put up but I couldn't zoom in close enough to get a good look at it.