Chimney Pipe- heatilator SL300

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I have removed the Heatilator wood fireplace and I'm in the process of building an alcove in its place. Im wanting to install a Vogel Defender.

Here's the question, Can I connect the stove to the Heatilator SL series chimney? I cant find a heat rating on the pipe.

 

[hossthehermit]

Welcome to the forum. Might want to do an introduction, and go to the stove section for your fuel of choice, either wood or pellet. Never heard of the Vogel, so I'm guessing wood??

 

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Hello,
I'm new here, but not to wood stoves. I've been splitting and stacking wood since I was 10.

I find myself replacing an over fired and tired Heatilator. The question I have is regarding the Heatilator SL300 chimney pipe. I haven't been able to find a heat rating for it. I'm replacing the Heatilator with a Vogelzang Defender. Can I use the chimney pipe with the stove?

Thanks for any direction.

 

[shawneyboy]

Unless you can confirm the rating and that it is up to code, the proper pipe for your stove, and up to your insurance companies standard for the new unit, I personally would not use it. Risk/reward ratio just aint worth it.

 

[begreen]

I don't think so. If I recall correctly, SL300 is air-cooled pipe. You will need class A, insulated HT pipe for the Defender, but that does not directly connect to the stove. Is the old stove built into alcove?

 

[n3pro]

bump - no idea but hossthehermit this is what he's talking about.

Volgelzang Defender

 

[DAKSY]

I have removed the Heatilator wood fireplace and I'm in the process of building an alcove in its place. Im wanting to install a Vogel Defender.

Here's the question, Can I connect the stove to the Heatilator SL series chimney? I cant find a heat rating on the pipe.

No. The SL 300 series is not rated to wood stove temperatures.
It's rated at 1500 degrees... You need 2100 degree rated (HT)
Class A chimney for a wood stove

 

[[email protected]]

Thanks for the temp rating on the SL300. I was afraid of that. Its not a huge blow to my plans because the SL300 was not installed properly to begin with.

Now that it is decided, are all insulated chimneys created equal? I'll go out Monday and try to scrounge up what I need.

I'm building an alcove because of tight floor plan.

I'll take some pics here and there so you can see whats going on. I wish I had some pics of the old Heatilator. How we lasted 10+years without a house fire is a miracle.

Thanks again.

 

[wkpoor]

If you think the SL300 is a shoddy install then by all means replace. Otherwise a lined 8" air cooled IMO should give you a super duty chimney pipe.

 

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wkpoor,
Are you talking about running a 6" stainless steel liner inside of the Heatilator SL300? I considered something along those lines, but I don't know anything about connection possibilities to the double wall black and also whats needed at the chimney cap end. One more thing, does the 6" SS liner need to be spaced somehow inside the 8" chimney already in place?
I'm happy to go talk to someone at a fireplace retailer, but I don't want to be sold something that I don't need.

 

[wkpoor]

My thoughts were to send a 6"wrapped flex liner down the 8" . I'm reading here though that won't pass code. Theory was if the liner burnt through then the SL300 would fail too. My question is if the class A burns through then what. I mean what the heck I could just drop a well casing down then, you know it just might fail if the fire gets hot enough.

 

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I understand the thought. I know the engineers have crunched the numbers and they have to approve SOMETHING, so what we have to choose from is just best case scenario.
The Heatilator I took out was shot. I mean over fired. The screens were warped, and the firebox liners were burnt out. I expected to find the framed chase to be half burnt and still smoldering. The fireplace was not installed correctly and the chimney was not installed correctly either. I still need to deal with the chimney. I haven't gone into the attic yet and I already know that the pipe is in direct contact with drywall, there is insulation blown in with direct contact, and I think that I can see where the outer pipe is partially apart about 16-20 inches.
Anything can get hot enough to fail. When I was a kid my folks left for a few hours one night. We were young teenagers and with an Atari blasting away the five of us forgot about the door left open on the first floor wood stove. My parents came home to find the top of the stove cherry red and the steel plate on top had sunk about half an inch. The chimney pipe was inspected and it was fine.
Regarding my chimney pipe, six inch stainless steel liner would be fine inside the SL300, if the SL300 was installed correctly. Unfortunately the engineers most likely have not worked their calculators enough for my insurance company to smile favorably upon going that rout.
Thanks for looking at the numbers for me regarding the liner.
I'll pull the chimney pipe out tomorrow and see if any damage is waiting for me up in the attic.