Commercial Heat Pump Water Heater

[gpcollen1]

I am opening a Beer Bar/Restaurant in Schenectady, NY. We have walk in coolers in the basement and i expect the basement to get pretty warm. I figure the best way to combat the heat and/or use it is to install an Air source Heat Pump Water Heater down there along with some hot water storage. Not sure if this will be enough or I can plumb the tank in line with the current electric water heater. I should be able to do the complete install too, maybe Ill leave the electric to someone else.

Anyone have any experience or model advice. It appears AO Smith has some interesting units.

http://etechbyaosmith.com/wh.html

I guess I'll fill out there worksheet and go from there. I'd leave to hear some other opinions though. I contacted 2 HVAC guys and they know next to nothing about this stuff. I do have a heat pump water heater in my garage that works rather well [Nyle unit].

 

[250psd]

I'm a licensed plumber here in PA. My biggest concern would be the recovery rate and what dishwasher you are using. Inspectors like a certain temperature of water depending on what dishwasher you are going to use. If you can't get the temp. he likes with an electric or heat pump type water heater, you may have to supplement chemicals to clean dishes. Weigh you options. Chemicals verse price or type of water heater.

 

[heat seeker]

I've seen "boosters" installed just before the dishwasher. They are really just dedicated electric water heaters, increasing the water temp to the required level for dishwashing.

 

[mepellet]

I've seen "boosters" installed just before the dishwasher. They are really just dedicated electric water heaters, increasing the water temp to the required level for dishwashing.

very common in commercial kitchens....

 

[gpcollen1]

The water temp is not a problem. The dishwasher has it's own heater and has a low temp and high temp setting. At high temps, sanitizer is optional, though it is used.

As for recovery time for other things, from what I understand the real issue is sizing the Heat Pump WH with the storage tank to make sure that it runs long enough. That water feeding the Electric Hot Water Heater should keep the electric off.

Any other thoughts?

 

[gtjp]

Any other thoughts?[/quote]
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Hi :
1qpm raised 60-degrees x 500 is a constant 30,000 btuh requirement...<<~ 25000 btuh/2-NET COOLING tons

in 1981 TETCO of Ohio had a 40-gal water heater "blue bomb" of 1-ton compressor, r-12 and r-22, that BOTH set to 125
did that , some for over 20 years (!) on just 1.2 to 1.3 gpm 50-deg water. (any water-cooled coolers or ice machines?
Trick was a 12000 btuh compressor at loaded pressures did less "chillin' " ... a cold tank of water starting used over 1.7gpm...
www.Hydro-Temp.com of AR, patented Demand HW in 1981 with just 1.1/2 ton units (to 75-tons)
TETCO Heating Only also had demand HW and Hot air from a "chiller" Geo-thermal unit that used 5 gpm to make HW from a 36000 btuh 3-ton compressor... (32000 BTU, loaded at 122 degrees output) through the 1990's.

A standard off the shelf A/W you describe , will have a BTUH ari/AHRI label-rated compressor... figure a 10,000 btuh might average (CLEAN) only 8500 btuh Hot Water (HW) while only chilling the air ~ 7000 to 7500 btuh...
MFR Tech can tell you more.
so if your 1hp cooler heats that air at (xx) btuh... your able to see the chill vs the heat exchanged~
RECOVERY?
Without formulae:

Air-water equal to like a couple 5kw electrics (2x17 or 34,000 btuh, of 10kwh, like a dirty 45.000 btuh gas water heater) air-water Heat Pumps would be nearer 3 tons/ ~ 2,1.2 hp... (like the old TETCO's now made by GEOCOMFORT) (over 4000, but with some kind of official ground-loop (minimal) and HW tanks and labor and fittings, on a geothermal contract: 10% comm tax credits ... then you can also toss hot air in the winter after heating water... etc (several useful situations from one unit, already proven)
see www.geopros.org (rough) for pictorials

at using r410a refrigerant is like 10,000 /ton in btuh, unless plenty of warm air (yielding more) with air-water.
estimate work as 1 hp roughly...
?What refrigerant?
or
OFF-SHELF
you buy Hydro-Temps or GEOCOMFORT 100% HW gt units that DO NOT NEED A GT LOOP in the ground if all you do is run warm-air,
dining area cool air also,
that will get DEHUMIDIFIED, and cooled depending on air speeds used WHILE 100% HW is made for common use... unit can mount horizontal too and divert intake/exhaust air where you want cooling or DeHum....
the better the filters, the less the cleanup at the air exchanger:

1-ton, fig 10,000 HW at load recovery or ~ 12000 at cool water entry to heat...
but chills7500 to 8500 usually (net) btuhs/. HEAT-RECLAIM is SOOOOOOOO GREEEEEN.
1qpm raised 60-degrees x 500 is a constant 30,000 btuh requirement...<<~ 25000 btuh/2-NET COOLING tons-

MUST HAVE FLOW-CONTROLLED IF A LOT OF COLD WATER-TANK START-UPS, NEW REFG's. 'HATE' BEING UNDER 85-DEG, AT THE HOT-CONDENSER-HW SIDE (!)(tank appreciated mixing)
Just like a water-cooled ice machine or running an air conditioner on 40-deg days... they use limits t'd into rfg fittings to pinch off flows and fan switches on roof top units.

Even console gt units can WITHOUT LOOPS preheat water while cooling to ~ make105-deg HW, flow controlled, or mixed in 40-50 gal pre-tank... as needed just used as Air-Water-Heat-Pumps... "P-Tac" on up...
used in air-conditioning-cooling modes.

 

[gpcollen1]

Thanks for that info...much to digest for me but good stuff. Both those sites look old ad some drawings are quite old = more than 10 yrs old. Still good info.