conifer trees

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

leoibb

Member
Dec 29, 2010
84
uk
hello all. come across loads of very large conifer trees today , been cut down some time, i managed a couple of van loads, very easy to cut. a sod to split
I had read that conifer was a bad wood to burn, but i gave it a go and it burns very well, just wandering the thoughts of conifer wood..
im assuming it is conifer it may not be it may be something similar i dont know.
i also managed to fit a stainless tube at the back of stove just below the baffle plate , drilled a few holes an inch roughly apart and wow i am amazed the difference it has made, blue /purple flames all along the top of the fire,i can now close it down totally and all i have is the top section burning without flames going up from the fire , my friend inversted in a stove very recently , it is a hunter herald, i popped down to view while it was burning and not impressed at all, nice looking stove but i think he regrets buying the model of stove now
 
Conifer is an evergreen tree that bears its fruit in (pine) cones.
There are many varieties & you can burn all of SAFELY,
if they're split & dried to under 20% moisture content.
Sounds like you added a secondary burn tube, but unless
it's got combustion air feeding thru it, it's probably not doing much...
Enjoy your conifer & stay warm!
 
Conifers are generally pretty easy to split, EXCEPT where there are knots. Often these knots are not visible from the outside. Available heat from wood is per pound, dry weight.
Don't know anything about your stove, but it's possible that you can't fully close down the primary air. Proper secondary combustion can greatly reduce carcinogens and other nasties in the exhaust- good thing. If you can't close down the air, a damper in the flue may be a good idea. Happy bucking & splitting.
 
it is a secondary tube i added, hollow tube from the side along the back of the stove , i put in tiny air holes in and i get jets of blue flames now very nice. im goin to figure how to do pics, as they are far better than words
 
leoibb said:
it is a secondary tube i added, hollow tube from the side along the back of the stove , i put in tiny air holes in and i get jets of blue flames now very nice. im goin to figure how to do pics, as they are far better than words

i think what everyone is wondering is does your "secondary tube with the tiny air holes" have an air source, from the outside of the firebox, for those tiny air holes?
 
sorry my poor explanation,, ok yes i drilled the hole in the side of the stove to allow an inch diameter stainless steel tube to enter. it travels along the back just under the baffle plate. the steel tube has a series of holes drilled in it , so before i added this tube i used to close the stove down and it would basically die out or smoulder as it is airtight. now i have added this tube it creates blue and variations of blue flames just under the baffle plate, its quite amazing to watch really, there is very little fire were the wood is, wood just smoulders away and seems to last a lot longer but with the blue flames above its much hotter..
 
I think those conifer trees will burn a lot better if you split the wood and stack it to season until next fall. It is probably quite wet right now.
 
Any of your conifers, whether spruce, pine, fir or one of the deciduous conifers like larch will burn just fine.

You will still need to let it dry to get the most heat from it though.

Matt
 
thanks all for the replies you have sent, most of it is bone dry and very light so i guess i am lucky in that respect, just a lot of lifting and work getting them
 
Status
Not open for further replies.