Connector required from 6 inch stainless flex liner to flue collar?

[Eaglecraft]

I have purchased a Hearthstone Clydesdale fireplace insert and am about ready to install the unit. I am using 6 inch SS flex liner (insulated). The Hearthstone instructions indicated that the flex liner can be placed directly into the flue collar and secured with screws. Is any intermediate connector that could be placed in the collar be desired or necessary? Thanks in advance for answering my question.

Volemeister

 

[cmonSTART]

The maker of your liner will probably have an appliance adapter, which can be added to the bottom of the liner and basically plugs right into the flue collar. Depending on your liner it may not be necessary, but is worth the effort IMO.

 

[DAKSY]

We ALWAYS use a flex-to-rigid connector when installing a liner into an insert.
Heat Fab model 4656SS is what we use., & it gets zip-screwed to the liner.
We also use small "L-shaped" brackets which get zip-screwed to the top of the insert
& to the adapter for rigidity

 

[theheatelement]

Generally if you don't use one you will end up getting creosote on the outside of the collar.

 

[Eaglecraft]

Ok then. After reading the replies to my question, (and I thank you all for those replies) I ordered a "flex liner appliance/stove connector". Thinking about securing the flex liner (which has an irregular outside surface) to the flue collar using only screws just didn't seem right. I'm sure it can be done, but I worry about vibration working the whole thing loose. And, this Clydesdale unit is a heavy beast and moving it around to complete repairs... Well let's just say that I can't physically do now what I used to do as a 20 year old.

Many thanks again for your collective advice.

 

[cmonSTART]

We ALWAYS use a flex-to-rigid connector when installing a liner into an insert.
Heat Fab model 4656SS is what we use., & it gets zip-screwed to the liner.
We also use small "L-shaped" brackets which get zip-screwed to the top of the insert
& to the adapter for rigidity

ForeverFlex has incorporated some L brackets into the design of their Connector now. I haven't used it yet but it looks like a good idea.

 

[BrotherBart]

I have always wondered why anybody would build an insert that required you to drill holes in the top of the firebox to go do a good liner installation. Just makes me scratch my head.

 

[overnight burn]

do your self a favor and buy your self an ajustable adaptor . most of the time the liner doesnt line up with the flue opening. it'll save you a big headache

 

[BrotherBart]

do your self a favor and buy your self an ajustable adaptor . most of the time the liner doesnt line up with the flue opening. it'll save you a big headache

Maybe why the liner flexes? No way there is going to be an "adjustable" leaky elbow on on top of a stove in this house.

 

[overnight burn]

I dont know how many installs you have done or how much you know about wood burning appliances, but when you install a liner or when you install stove pipe the male end is always facing down on all your connections as if liquid would be running down the pipe like a leader from your gutter. In reality it is done that way so that if the creasote liquifies it would run back into the unit rather than the out side of the pipe. what im getting at, is that you never have a perfectly sealed pipe unless you siliconed it. You could have a hole the size of a baseball in your flue pipe and it wouldnt leak out as long as you have draft and if you dont have draft the smoke will be coming out of your stove through the air opening that your draft control rod opens and closes, as well as your connection on top of the stove. Also your draft control rod is never completely shut even in the closed position , you always need a little air. So whether you connector adjustable or not you will have the same tiny spaces that you think might leak. If you check your installation manual it'll show you the same direction of pipe and connectios. Also just because the pipe flexes it doesnt mean that you could make tight bends in a short space such as the space between your fireplace damper and the top of your unit. They wouldnt make adjustables if they leaked. The hearth industry has some of the tightest standards of all industries.
About drilling into the top of an insert it's ok, because an insert it built with a steel shell about two inches around the main body of the unit to create the convection that most units these days are designed to do, rather than just radiate the the heat it convects and radiates allowing it disperse more evenly and not blow you out of the room that it is in. Some units come with holes already drilled into the top so that you could use the L brackets.