I want to get a UPS, this product come up a bunch of times...any particular model???? Thanks, Bill
One relay thread. Relay plus socket plus (1) old lamp cord to connect to spare not-battery-backed plug on UPS and (2) piece of single-strand wire to connect relay to thermostat terminal on back of stove after connecting that thermostat wire to the relay ... and kofkorn's diagrams of which screws to connect to, and it's a ten-minute project. Murphy118 spec'd the relay and socket, so thanks to Murphy as well.j-takeman said:There is a thread on the relay here. I think dbcooper was the member that posted the relay info.
whit said:One relay thread. Relay plus socket plus (1) old lamp cord to connect to spare not-battery-backed plug on UPS and (2) piece of single-strand wire to connect relay to thermostat terminal on back of stove after connecting that thermostat wire to the relay ... and kofkorn's diagrams of which screws to connect to, and it's a ten-minute project. Murphy118 spec'd the relay and socket, so thanks to Murphy as well.j-takeman said:There is a thread on the relay here. I think dbcooper was the member that posted the relay info.
Then there's dbcooper's earlier relay thread. The difference with dbcooper's setup is a more expensive relay, that has delays both for shut off and for going back on. His concern is that without the delay it might overfire when turned on again, if that results in adding a full load of pellets on top of a load left when it turned off. I see that happen anyway with my setback thermostat. If the thermostat drops to a lower-temperature setting after pellets have been dropped but before they ignite, then when the thermostat calls again and goes to start a fresh cycle, it starts by dumping a whole second load of pellets in the burn pot. When I've seen this happen, the flame certainly runs high for a couple minutes, but not to a degree that looks threatening. With another stove at other settings or with other pellets, maybe it could be a problem. Note dbcooper's timed solution doesn't completely avoid the possibility either, but should make it less frequent. His solution he said was about $60. Mine was (broken link removed) for the relay, plus $8.64 for the socket, plus sales tax and shipping which put another $10 or so on it. So it's a $25-ish solution.
If you're cheap you don't need the socket; just solder to the relay pins.
Pelleting In NJ said:I bought a Cyberpower CP850PFCLCD for my Ecoteck, to shut it down properly during a power failure. This unit has a high purity sine-wave output to keep the AC stove motors happy. I paid about $113 on Amazon. Works like a champ, gives plenty of run-time for the stove to shut-down.(The stove draws about 120W during shut-down. I am going to put a set of N.O. relay contacts in series with the auger motor, with the low-voltage DC relay coil supplied by a small "wallwart" DC adapter (which) is plugged in before the UPS. Then the stove will run out of fuel when the power drops out, while the UPS keeps the combustion blower running to keep the smoke out of the house. This is a must for me, as I have horizontal flue with no natural draft. I have an OAK too.
If your stove has an igniter on a thermostat, you want to be sure the igniter won't go on too. Those igniters draw a lot of current. Putting a relay on the thermostat line will ensure the igniter isn't turned on with power out. It should also stop the auger from running, since the relay cutting the circuit is the same signal as "it's hot enough already." Looks to the stove like the thermostat is satisfied.Pelleting In NJ said:I am going to put a set of N.O. relay contacts in series with the auger motor, with the low-voltage DC relay coil supplied by a small "wallwart" DC adapter (which) is plugged in before the UPS. Then the stove will run out of fuel when the power drops out, while the UPS keeps the combustion blower running to keep the smoke out of the house.
The differences are (1) more power (the higher number) and (2) that's not a model with a pure sine wave, but rather with an approximation where it steps up and down to approximate a sine wave. That is, however, a great price, about $50 lower than anywhere else.geek said:I saw a CyberPower 1350AVR at Costco for $89.99 plus tax.
Sounds like a good price but not sure what's the big difference with the CP850PFCLCD
whit said:The differences are (1) more power (the higher number) and (2) that's not a model with a pure sine wave, but rather with an approximation where it steps up and down to approximate a sine wave. That is, however, a great price, about $50 lower than anywhere else.geek said:I saw a CyberPower 1350AVR at Costco for $89.99 plus tax.
Sounds like a good price but not sure what's the big difference with the CP850PFCLCD
The CyberPower PFC series has true sine waves. I'm using an AVR-series CyberPower with my Quad Santa Fe, and I've got no complaints. But some here say their fans sound different using the step-type sine wave approximation units as compared to the pure sine wave ones. Generally computers work fine with the approximated sine waves too - except for some newer power supply designs, which are more sensitive to that, and don't (they just refuse to run on 'em). It's possible some stoves are more sensitive to the purity too.
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