Hi all, I was wondering if there was any other reliable way to check moisture levels than a store bought moisture meter. I know of a way to check forage moisture levels using a scale and microwave, could this work on wood? Any other methods?
Different ways to check moisture?
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jdinspector
Feeling the Heat
You could put a log in a sealed plastic bag and see if any moisture condensates on the interior of the bag. This is often done on floors or walls (plastic taped to the floor or wall) to determine if moisture entry is occurring at specific locations. This method won't tell you how much moisture there is- only that there is excessive moisture in the wood. Not sure what you would do with this information, except to let your wood season longer.
Woody Stover
Minister of Fire
Yes. If you read the "Moisture content of wood" section at this link, it gives the formula for calculating the dry-basis MC of wood which is the same thing a moisture meter would give you.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood_drying
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood_drying
Do you hear that?? That was BK fumbling with his keyboard and mouse. PREPARE THY SELF for an education.... (in my best announcer voice).
onetracker
Minister of Fire
bluedogz
Minister of Fire
Here comes the procedure using a digital scale, two microwaves, a dial caliper, a slide rule, a quart of motor oil, and a dead rat.
The Morso user's manuals used to describe a method where you put your mouth against one end of a split and blow hard. If bubbles come out of the other end it isn't ready to burn. It is advisable to hide behind the woodpile so nobody sees you do it. But it actually works.
And yes, all of the jokes about blowing your own wood were used up here years ago.
And yes, all of the jokes about blowing your own wood were used up here years ago.
Some body posted that a while back and I thought they were kidding until I read it on the chimney sweep site, are you supposed to put soapy water on the end.BrotherBart said:
The truth is BK should be along and tell you about drying the wood and weighing it.Dairyman said:
Thistle
Minister of Fire
Thistle
Minister of Fire
Most all Red/Black Oak is porous enough for that to work.Even kiln-dried lumber scraps.Wont work with White or Bur Oaks however,being their pores are plugged with tyloses.
oldspark said:
I can just see my wife coming home to a piece of wood in the oven. Time to take me off to the looney bin!
Jags said:
Whoa there, Big Paint. Looks like another rodeo's a' brewin'. Anybody know which bull I'm on? Jest keep me away from that dang Brother Bart, I heerd he's a rank one.
Joking aside BK, I really do think that many would benefit if you could do the wiki write up from one (or several) of your prior posts. The long winded thread from a week or two ago should not vaporize into the digital wind. Waaay too much good info. Maybe even a crib sheet version and then the full blown version for those who would like to geek out.
If I had to guess it would either be Red Bull or something that resembles Bull Durham.
Battenkiller said:
If I had to guess it would either be Red Bull or something that resembles Bull Durham.
Dairyman said:
Yup, if you already know how to do it correctly, it'll work fine with wood. Takes a lot more cycles in the MW is all. Just watch out you don't set the wood in your microwave on fire (first time you probably will anyway). And if you're gonna be weighing stuff anyway, you might as well use the wet-basis calculation as. No sense in any wood burner using dry-basis unless he's comparing his results with those from a meter. You use dry-basis and you just have to convert it back to wet-basis for stove use. I wish the damn things read in wet-basis so I'd never again have the urge to point out the difference between the two methods.
Other than that, you can just clunk two splits together. A C# indicates wood at 35%, a C natural is 30%, B is 25%, Bb is 20% and right on down the chromatic scale. :coolsmirk:
"I wish the damn things read in wet-basis so I’d never again have the urge to point out the difference between the two methods."
Be strong BK be strong.
Be strong BK be strong.
[quote author="Jags" date="1322699722"]Joking aside BK, I really do think that many would benefit if you could do the wiki write up from one (or several) of your prior posts. The long winded thread from a week or two ago should not vaporize into the digital wind. Waaay too much good info. Maybe even a crib sheet version and then the full blown version for those who would like to geek out.
Can't do that. I'm currently under contract with "Hearth & Home" for a six-part series. %-P
Jags, I'd be only too happy to oblige, but I'll want to do it right and I don't have the time, patience, or sanity to do it justice until we get settled in again. My reference books are all packed away and they have some crucial info I'd like to cite. Won't help any new burners this year, but if they don't have dry wood already, nothing I write is gonna get it any drier. Hopefully, an article in the early spring would help a few of these young whippersnappers get a fair start with good wood without having to guess at all the variables.
Can't do that. I'm currently under contract with "Hearth & Home" for a six-part series. %-P
Jags, I'd be only too happy to oblige, but I'll want to do it right and I don't have the time, patience, or sanity to do it justice until we get settled in again. My reference books are all packed away and they have some crucial info I'd like to cite. Won't help any new burners this year, but if they don't have dry wood already, nothing I write is gonna get it any drier. Hopefully, an article in the early spring would help a few of these young whippersnappers get a fair start with good wood without having to guess at all the variables.
B flat, now I wish I would've paid attention in band. How chopped up do u like to see the sample?
Backwoods Savage
Minister of Fire
Dairyman said:
Yes Dairyman, there is a very easy way. Split and stack your wood and don't touch it for 2-3 more years. Then burn it. It is a no-fail method and no instruments are needed except the normal saw and splitter.
Backwoods Savage said:
Your right on with that, that's what I'm working on right now. Just curiosity got the best of me, the Manny can tell a difference in my 1 year vs 2 year and I was wondering how far off it was. Bad news is I'm 2 years behind. Thanks.
Backwoods Savage
Minister of Fire
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