Drolet heatmax 2

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Secondaryburns

New Member
Nov 25, 2021
19
Canada
Go get a warm drink, get comfy, and click on the link in my sig line, it will take you to the huge T1 thread...lots of great operational info there...the T1 and the T2 are very similar, so most of the info applies.
I like the way u think thank u for all the help:)Exactly how do i click on the link?
 

brenndatomu

Minister of Fire
Aug 21, 2013
6,753
NE Ohio
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Highbeam

Minister of Fire
Dec 28, 2006
19,529
Mt. Rainier Foothills, WA
The temperature readout on the back of the furnace is from the thermal probe located in the plenum,i understand as the temp rises in the plenum the blower increases in speed to compensate,until once reaching 200 then shuts down damper and blower runs on high until plenum temp gradually decreases.Correct me if im wrong please,but would this not protect the stove from damage regardless of whether i have a barometric draft or not?

Some funny things happen when a wood burner is supplied with too much draft. Often, the actual stove runs cool due to the excess of cold air running through the stove and there are complaints of low heat output. This would be a reason that a plenum overtemp switch would not notice the blast furnace occuring inside the firebox melting the important little bits in there.

Correct draft strength can make a stove burn hotter and more efficiently by keeping the heat from blowing up the stack.
 

Secondaryburns

New Member
Nov 25, 2021
19
Canada
Some funny things happen when a wood burner is supplied with too much draft. Often, the actual stove runs cool due to the excess of cold air running through the stove and there are complaints of low heat output. This would be a reason that a plenum overtemp switch would not notice the blast furnace occuring inside the firebox melting the important little bits in there.

Correct draft strength can make a stove burn hotter and more efficiently by keeping the heat from blowing up the stack.
Thank u for that info,appreciate it.Going to talk to insurance regarding baro draft.Cheers
 

trx250r87

Burning Hunk
Nov 30, 2012
201
NE Wisconsin
If anything like the original Tundra a "spa timer" connected to the furnace helps so you don't have to babysit. Load, turn the dial to 20-30 minutes and walk away knowing that the wood will char but not burn on high the whole time. I used the timer in place of the thermostat.

Eric
 
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brenndatomu

Minister of Fire
Aug 21, 2013
6,753
NE Ohio
If anything like the original Tundra a "spa timer" connected to the furnace helps so you don't have to babysit. Load, turn the dial to 20-30 minutes and walk away knowing that the wood will char but not burn on high the whole time. I used the timer in place of the thermostat.

Eric
I personally wouldn't use that if the draft is high, unless maybe if the temp controller mod was installed...but even then the draft needs to be controlled
 

blades

Minister of Fire
Nov 23, 2008
3,694
WI, Leroy
them ins co are a bit persnikity up there in canuk land. not to mention some of the other gov regs. not that it all that much better here state side, with the E & W coast states being somewhat anal as compared to the mid areas.
 

Secondaryburns

New Member
Nov 25, 2021
19
Canada
them ins co are a bit persnikity up there in canuk land. not to mention some of the other gov regs. not that it all that much better here state side, with the E & W coast states being somewhat anal as compared to the mid areas.
Have to please insurance company,otherwise if something happens and its not up to code,well you know what happens.As far as return air not being enough,could i not remove one of the blower box sides to increase return air flow?
I read thru the thread breddatomu sent me some great info thank u, most foccuses on the temp control mod...which unfortuanetly i cannot do,nor can i install a chimney draft...manual or baro.It does state in the manual a baro is not needed.And that flu temps can be used to help monitor heat loss via chimney.
So i have figured out the basics of this furnace needs.Burning high quality dry hardwood i lite fire with draft open(almost full load of wood)once it reaches 500degrees(in my application this achieves proper secondary burns)internal stovepipe temp i shut the draft.It then runs around 450/500 on secondary burn.Can anyone tell me what their internal stovepipe tenps are roughly?i know im loosing some heat up chimney but be nice to compare temps with another owner.If i cover the hole in the draft door the fire slows once again,wondering of anyone has taped off some of the draft holes to achieve less heat loss up chimney?Thinking that may be an option for my situation.Thanks