Duravent pellet vent question

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nickster

Member
Feb 22, 2014
16
new Hampshire
Hi everyone. I have a Harman Accentra 2 I picked up used last week and am ready to hook it up to my existing 3" vent. I have an 18" section of pipe that leaves the stove and goes outside to a clean out t, then up six feet to a 90 then to a cap. I'm using Duravent pellet vent, the cheaper stuff not the Pro with the gaskets. My question is do I need to silicone every joint, even the ones outside to keep the soot out of the house? I installed a special Harman connector on the back of the stove which replaces the cast exhaust connector that comes on the stove from Harman. This connector twists and locks right into my Duravent pipe system. I am planning on not sealing this joint inside with silicone as I want to be able to undo it to clean. I am planning on taping this joint with aluminum tape. Do you guys think I'll be able to keep the soot from getting in the house? Thanks in advance.
 

Washed-Up

Minister of Fire
Nov 5, 2011
671
Kananaskis,Alberta, Canada
I only siliconed my longest sections, everything else is foil taped
 

tbear853

Feeling the Heat
I'm using Duravent pellet vent, the cheaper stuff not the Pro with the gaskets.
They make Duravent pellet vent that has no sealing?

Every bit I have has some sort of sealing. Even the old stuff without the O-ring sealed up, had a rope seal like wrap in the female end that the male end abuts.. The only place I use the high temp Permatex Red (was orange) RTV sealant is I wipe a good coating on the joints in the 45 angle turn sections before it goes out through a wall thimble. Outside the house, I use it only on the pellet vent exiting the thimble to keep bug types out, and besides, once a tube is open, may as well use it right? (I'm just joking, I place a piece of clear plastic over nozzle and put the cap on to seal the tube, but a few years it'll be useless)

It's hidden behind the stove. I know that often the elbow is said to be fixed but I bought it as adjustable in 1992. Never has leaked. The "glob" is not a hole, I think it's just some in a thumb dent .... as I recall. The outside Vent I just replaced this year as I re-routed slightly and the steel outer shell had rusted in some places like the Tee joints where it was mitered I guess from being exposed to weather.

11-30-20 stove back 640w.jpg 112820 new flu pipes (438x640).jpg 0 Need new flue pipe 25 years later 2 - Copy.jpg
 
Last edited:

tlc1976

Minister of Fire
Oct 7, 2012
846
Northwest Lower Michigan
I siliconed everything on mine. Probably didn’t have to do the outside but I figured might as well not see smoke leaks in the intermediate pipe. Probably wouldn’t anyway but I’m picky.

I also had to silicone the 45 elbow joints and rivets like that because they originally leaked. But I have the same setup. Stove adapter, 45 elbow, an 18 or 24 straight thru the thimble, cleanout tee, 6 ft rise, 90 elbow and hood.

I’ve never had to take mine apart. Stick the brush in the outlet. Then from the cleanout tee, I run the brush up the rise, and it will also go through the inside pipe, even through the 45. I can feel it go through the 45 then feel the end. I run my exhaust fan to blow out the ash from the inside pipe as the brush knocks it loose. Do that maybe 5 times till the ash stops coming out when I retract the brush.

Someday if I ever have to replace the pipe I’ll deal with it, but it’s been 5 years and still looks good.
 
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SidecarFlip

Minister of Fire
I never put RTV on anything, just foil HVAC tape except inside, where the vent engages the exhaust outlet. All Duravent as well as Selkirk has a sealing rings between each section. Only difference between the standard pellet vent and the pro vent is the liner is a higher grade of stainless to resist corrosion from roasting corn. Interestingly however, I've been using the standard pellet vent (Duravent)for 20 years now with corn and have had no issues what so ever.
 

SidecarFlip

Minister of Fire
I'm just joking, I place a piece of clear plastic over nozzle and put the cap on to seal the tube, but a few years it'll be useless
Bear... Little hint on RTV. Put the tapered nozzle on it and leave it on. When you apply the RTV through that nozzle, it fills the nozzle and very effectively seals the tube. When you need some again, remove the nozzle and pull the vulcanized plug out (it comes right out) and use it again. I never put the caps back on and the stuff stays good for years,.

The caps all leak air after the foil end of the tube is pierced. Air+RTV= rubber ducky. :eek: