Durock on wall

[Vanskills]

I'm putting up a temp hearth that will be torn down in summer and some fancy brick will be built

For now the floor hearth is 3 inch stone, no hear even goes to the bottom so overkill.

The walls are about 24 inches away in all directions (wood walls, not drywall) and get really hot when stove fired up( can barely hold hand on wall) question is can I just put durock on the wall section of hearth for now or do I have to go through the trouble of tiling on top, really don't want to cause I'm just going to rip it town in summer

Thanks for any input

 

[ScotO]

It sounds to me like you got some clearance issues....your wood shouldn't be getting that hot. Check with your stove manufacturers' requirements for clearances to the floor, sides and top.....make sure you clearly understand those clearances are NOT there as an option, they are REQUIRED.....

 

[KodiakII]

Either adhere to the manufacturer's requirements for minimum clearances or install a heat shield on your stove or on the wall with durock, also keeping in mind their respective reductions. On the wall you will need non combustible spacers with a sheet of 18 gauge tin which can be covered with durock.

 

[Vanskills]

Thanks kodiak

If I understand correctly, I put one inch spacers, than durock, the durock doesn't need tile? It can be exposed like that?

 

[KodiakII]

I don't know for certain, other will correct me if I am wrong, but I think you could even go with tin on the spacers (min 28 gauge up here). I think the durock or whatever product does give you some R value but its main purpose is to provide a suitable substrate to adhere tile, stone or brick veneer to. I have bare durock right now until I can afford whatever cultured stone product my superior settles on.

 

[Vanskills]

What would you use for spacers 2x4's or Does it need to be something non combustible, I have no clue what to use for spacers

 

[ScotO]

strips of 5/8" drywall should be OK for spacers, better yet use hardibacker or something like that....

 

[begreen]

Thanks kodiak

If I understand correctly, I put one inch spacers, than durock, the durock doesn't need tile? It can be exposed like that?

The Joutl 4 is highly radiant. If you want to put up some temporary protection, you plan is fine. The Durock can be unfinished. Snap off some 3" x 36" sections from the end of the sheet and double them up to create 1" spacer shim strips. Leave a 1" air gap at the bottom and top for good ventilation behind the wall shield.

 

[Vanskills]

Thank guys, on my way to depot to get this going

 

[begreen]

Remember to get some long screws. 2.5" would be about right.

 

[KodiakII]

I used steel furring strips fastened to the wall for the 1 inch air space, sheet metal riveted to the furring strips, and short drywall screws that just punctured the sheet metal and furring strips. You do not want screws going from the durock into your under laying combustible. I know this is a Canadian guide but I used it for my install and it was most helpful.
http://www.cmhc-schl.gc.ca/en/co/maho/enefcosa/upload/wood_heating_EN_W.pdf

 

[SteveKG]

No need to cover up or tile over the Durock unless you don't like looking at it. Since it will be temporary, then that's up to you.

It just needs the one inch or more air space between it and the wall, plus an air space at the bottom so air can move in there and travel up behind the Durock. I used one-inch pieces of some scrap metal elec. conduit I had around, stuck them in the vice and cut with a hack saw as spacers to fit over the screws. Raise the Durock piece with something like scrap 2 X lumber to hold it up off the floor and screw it to the wall with the spacers. Then pull out the 2 X and toss into the stove.

 

[SlyFerret]

If you can hold your hand on the wall, even just barely... it ain't that hot. Hot to skin is not hot as far as combustion is concerned.

Do you worry about the dash of your car bursting into flames on a hot day? Probably not.

Measure the temp with a thermometer and see what you are actually dealing with instead of speculating about how hot it feels.

-SF

 

[Vanskills]

Wl the paint on the wood started bubbling, guessing that's too hot

I bought the durock, it was cheap, putting it up tommorowvwith 1 inch space, thanks fellas

 

[begreen]

Do you have a thermometer on the Jotul? Does the fire respond when you turn down the air control. If not, it may need new gaskets. Be careful not to overfire it.

 

[Vanskills]

Ya I hot therms on stove and flue, been running the stove at 450 average but it really doesn't push out the heat I need till around 500-600, when it was at 600 the paint on my wood walls starting bubbling a tiny bit

It has about 24 inch clearance to the wood wall, hopefully this durock works

 

[Seasoned Oak]

Ya I hot therms on stove and flue, been running the stove at 450 average but it really doesn't push out the heat I need till around 500-600, when it was at 600 the paint on my wood walls starting bubbling a tiny bit

It has about 24 inch clearance to the wood wall, hopefully this durock works

Iv done it this way for temp installs,when you do you the wall behind will barely get warm and you create a good air flow on both sides of the durock.

 

[Beetle-Kill]

Vanskills- 1" clearance for the Durock is minimal. Go more than that if you have the room. More air space= better heat disapation.

 

[begreen]

How much improvement? I've measured a 80F drop behind an NFPA wall shield with just a 1" airspace. There comes a point where overkill returns minimal gains.