EAB - Homeowner treatment for Eastern Ash Borer…?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
Drifthopper

Drifthopper

Member
Apr 12, 2007
106
www.drifthoppers.net
Well,,,,, we got ‘em here in Western NY, and my main shade trees along the side of the house and in the backyard are ash trees.

Cutting them down for firewood is not an option.

What kind of “over-the-counter†/ homeowner treatments are out there?

I was reading on different sites, the NYS Dept. of Conservation site..etc… about the ash borer, but none of the sites say…. “Here…Use this to kill’em†.

What’s out there to treat these things?

Any input is greatly appreciated. My trees thank you.

.
 
fortunateLEE said:
Bayer makes a treatment product but I can't remember the name.
Click to expand...


Page five, bottom of that page. I see after I posted it was already up I'll take it down.




zap
 
We had a recommendation from a landscaper to put "Merit" into our trees at work that were experiencing borers. They were not EAB. He said it would take care of any boring insect going into the tree. We did not use the treatment, so I can't tell you the results.
 
If there was a viable treatment, word would be wide spread. If I were you, I would plant a fast growing tree right now. Dawn Redwood is a very fast growing deciduous tree that is pretty cool...
 
Onion…Thanks for that link to the article… I printed it out and saved it. I’ll search the stuff that listed in there.

As of last summer / fall, My trees are still healthy, Full canopy, plenty of leaves. But , the bugs have been found all around us, as reported in the news and in the papers, so it is just a matter of time before they find these.

I’m just looking to get a head start, hopefully it won’t cost a ton of money.

CT.. the article is pretty good, it lists the pesticides they tried with the success percentages. And if I planted new trees, I would not want them in any other places.

.
 
I have had excellent results with the Bayer Tree and Shrub Protect and Feed.

We picked the most desirable trees on our property and have been treating them once per year for the last four years. All of the ones we have treated have survived. 20+ untreated trees have become firewood in the same timeframe.

The stuff is easy to use and apply, but it is very expensive. $15-$18 per bottle. A sizable tree can take 2+ bottles to protect for one year. I am treating 8 trees for a total of about $250 per year. I am doing this while some of my transplanted maples and nursery bought trees get better established.

Good luck, the EAB is a bad deal.
 
There are three homeowner treatments available that are labeled and treated by universities for prevention of EAB. Two use an insecticide named imidacloprid with is a systemic insecticide on the neonicotinoid family. Be aware of the differences in concentration of the active ingredient when selecting the product. The commonly found product is Bayer advance, bonide, etc. and had 1.47% AI. This can be used to treat trees under 15 inches under LOW EAB pressure (dead trees are 2-3+ miles away). Some products like Xytect have concentrations of 14.7% and can be dosed at twice the concentration. Xytect can be used for trees over 15 inches and closer to infested areas. Imidaclorpid last for 12 months but applying in the spring (just after frost lifts) is the best.

The Second insecticide is called Safari or Greenlight and had an active ingredient called dinotefuron, it is highly systemic but last 3-4 months so timing is important. This must be applied in the spring to cover the summer months were EAB larvae are feeding.

All homeowner products must be used prior to seeing any canopy decline in the tree. For those concerned about bees - Ash are wind pollinated and flower in April so they are not part of the bees normal food source.

The professional insecticide in Restricted Use and must be injected into the stem. This can be used if the tree is displaying some canopy decline.
 
Fm31... that's what i'm afraid of....$$$$$... i like the trees, they add propety value, but at what cost ..??? the papers are saying the professionals will come out and treat your tree (s) for $100 to $150 each....and that's every yr. Ouch.
I'll look into that Bayer tree and feed, see what i can get for around here.

Norsk... ya... with the way this winters going , i want to treat the trees like in early April.....

And , ya ,,, that bug is bad. :(
 
Searched it on Amazon.... 4LB. container for $26

this is what it treats...what do you think they mean EAB 1 ???? what's the one for?

Kills insects and prevents new infestations for 12 months
Plus provides slow-release fertilizer; fertilizer analysis 2.0-1.0-1.0
Kills adelgids, borers, emerald ash borers1, leafminers, japanese beetles (adult) and many others; systemic rainproof protection won?t wash off
Also use for on containerized plants; prevents Japanese Beetle damage
4-pounds bottle
 
All I know is that our state did much searching and researching. Any "fix" they came up with failed. Ash is one of the trees that are now in Michigan's past. You ought to see our woods. Just sickening to see how bare it is now. Good firewood though.
 
I’m not sure what EAB 1 is but it takes many beetles if not hundreds (depends on tree size) to terminate the tree. The EPA focuses on environmental fate and not specifically product efficacy. Insecticide manufactures do submit data to EAP when adding target insects on the label but that does not mean the EPA insures they actually work as tested. Buyers beware. The efficacy is not always related to the active ingredient, inert ingredients that comprise the formulation can alter performance.

Michigan first discovered EAB 5-7 years prior to it actually arriving and the strategy was to remove all ash in 1 mile areas to contain the beetle. Sanitation of infested trees and removal of host trees is a typical approach for dealing with invasive insects. In this case EAB moves in stealth fashion and can not be contained.

Most of the insecticide research was done by the University of Ohio (D. Herms) and by the time the research could be done it was too late for Michigan. Nevertheless, a few insecticides work very well to prevent EAB but due to cost ($100 per year) they are most practical for large trees in landscapes or just that one biggy you want to keep.
 
Backwoods.... even yrs ago, reading on here, and seeing other articles on the bug... i was saying that it will devastate our woods here, woods , parks , neighborhoods....
I want to save these here in the yard, but out at camp i've been cutting a lot of ash in recent yrs.... big ones too, probably money trees, but easy for me to get to, Dad's like ... why you cuttin' them trees,,, i just say " they're gonna be dead aways in a few yrs. "

Norsk.. within reason....$$$$$.. :( i'll read up, and do what i can to treat these, hopefully it'll be enough. i got nine in the general back yard, a few of them are on my neighbors, but i get more shade and satisfaction of having them there then him, and most , if not all of 'em are over 15" , they're old.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom
Back