Econoburn Turbulator Linkage Mod

[willworkforwood]

Here is one way to modify the Econoburn turbulator linkage, in order to allow cleaning of the heat tubes via the top plate only. These are specs for an EBW 150 manufactured in September, 2008 - other models and build years may, or may not work exactly as described here, depending on any differences in dimensions and/or construction. The first picture below shows essentially everything involved in this modification. All of the rigid factory linkage pieces are removed, except for the turbulator lifter bar. Short lengths of chain are attached to the turbulator holes, and the other end of the chain is connected in pairs to 2 short bolts, which in turn are connected to the existing holes in the turb lifter rod flanges. The chain in the first picture is thin decorative chain, and was used in the prototype only. I actually ended up using a heavier (1/4") chain (picture #2), having links 1"x1 5/8". I used 8 links on the outside 2 turbs and 9 links on the inside 2. Other sizes of chain would require a different number of links. The bolts are 3/8" x 3 1/2" grade 8 (Lowes). One key point is that the 2 pair of of turbs are installed and removed via the inside nuts. Everything else in the rod assemblies (other nut, washers, and chain) remain on the rod. The washers on the rod keep the chain pushed inward, cutting down on any tendency for the chain to wander. So, the turb/chain/rod pairs move in and out of the boiler as a single unit. In the picture, it appears that the damper door is resting on the chain, but that's an optical illusion. With the turbs in the down position, no part of the chain touches the damper door - there is at least 1/2" clearance at all points. When everything is installed as shown in the picture, the inside nuts can be undone quite easily with the turb lever in full up position. When the nut is off, the rod detaches in the opposite direction, allowing the turb pair to be lifted out. Installation is the reverse procedure. Removal and installation is best accomplished by alternately holding the turbs, and the bolt/chain. When the turbulator lever is operated, the turbs should always move freely and easily up and down. If not, there is something wrong that needs to be fixed - the turbs should never hang up. It's also very important to understand that this mod requires that the tubes be cleaned regularly, and not allowed to have heavy ash or creosote deposits form. Without the rigid linkage, the turbs cannot be forced to move against deposits blocking their travel, so the tubes need to be clean enough to allow the turbs to float (as they should). Once this mod is done, it will be unnecessary to remove the boiler back plate. I also leave the top rear blue skin panel unbolted to allow faster access, and find it easier to use ASJ tape to create a hinge/panel of insulation above the top plate - flipping up that section via a tape hinge makes it easier than removing it completely.

 

[pybyr]

Very intriguing idea- I want to develop something similar, except that my situation is constrained by the fact that I have limited overhead clearance, which meant that I ordered my EBW-150 with 2-piece turbulators hinged in the center... which means that they may not necessarily drop entirely just based on their own weight. Have some ideas in mind but have lacked the time to fabricate/ try them.

Pulling and cleaning the turbs is one of the truly (and only) loathsome things I find about my EBW-150- it's a skinned-knuckle-fest accompanied by a soundtrack similar to the YouTube video of "Winnebago Man" outtakes. The limited overhead working room in my old house cellar adds to the difficulty, but this is something on which I believe EB could stand to do better.