Econoburn with storage piping diagram?

[goosegunner]

I ordered an econoburn 200 and I have a 1000 gallon lp tank that I will be getting.

I did have the guy add four ports to the tank. They are 2" top and bottom both ends.

I currently have an OWB that has a Primary/ Secondary manifold in my garage that is 115' from where the boiler house will be. I am trying to grasp how this is all going to lay out and this is what I would like to do.

Run my current Primary/Secondary setup as the load side and connect the econoburn/ storage tank to my underground pipe using something similar to the Simple pressurized storage sticky that Nofossil has posted.

Could you guys look at this basic drawing and tell me if I am headed in the right direction or totally off base?

One thing I am wondering is how to control ghost flow when I am using circulators for my load side instead of zone valves. Can I add a zone valve to open when the call for heat is sent to the load circulator?

gg

 

[goosegunner]

Here is a picture of my current set up in the garage that will distribute the heat on the other end of my underground piping.

gg

 

[Willman]

Check valve to handle ghost flow. Some circs have them built in.

Will

 

[goosegunner]

Check valve to handle ghost flow. Some circs have them built in.

Will

My circs do have the plastic check valves in them.

Just wondering if the boiler pump will pull water through the load side if I don't have a valve to stop flow?

 

[Hunderliggur]

Where is your storage going to be, in the house or at the boiler? I believe in the KISS principle. I would have one loop from the boiler to storage using one set of the ports, with a mixing valve (Danfoss or similar) for return temp protection, and its own circulator with control; and a second loop with circulator for the loads using the other set of ports. The storage acts as a big buffer tank. I do not see any backup heat, do you have any?

 

[goosegunner]

Where is your storage going to be, in the house or at the boiler? I believe in the KISS principle. I would have one loop from the boiler to storage using one set of the ports, with a mixing valve (Danfoss or similar) for return temp protection, and its own circulator with control; and a second loop with circulator for the loads using the other set of ports. The storage acts as a big buffer tank. I do not see any backup heat, do you have any?

The boiler will be in a 12'X16" building, the storage will be directly behind it in a 6'X20' lean to that is attached to the outbuilding.

I could do that because I have many ports. Would you have supply and return on opposite ends of the tank?

When storage temp is low would it take longer to bring the whole system up to temp for heat?


I do not have back up heat for the boiler set up. All heating zones have lp forced air. Underground line is 6' underground and buildings will be insulated.

gg

 

[goosegunner]

Drawing must be way off, many views but little feedback......


gg

 

[Piker]

For starters, it doesn't look like you have return protection on the wood boiler. The near boiler recirculating loop does not provide any cold water return protection whatsoever when the boiler is hooked to a thermal storage tank. Unless they have changed the location of the thermocouple on the boiler, (at the top of the boiler, about as far away from the return line as possible) you can get a couple minutes of cold shock to the boiler before a temperature change is registered. Look into a termovar valve or a termovar loading unit for return protection... this was added to their manual last year sometime...

As far as your drawing goes, place a weighted check valve (flow control valve) on the supply line from the boiler to the storage tank. This should prevent ghost flow through the boiler when the boiler is shut down and the load circ starts. If you remove one of the pumps and place a loading unit or termovar valve on the boiler return, you will have some ghost flow as long as the system is above 165... once the storage supply drops below 165 the termovar will provide restriction... but since your system is outside, I would still probably go with a flow control valve to prevent ghost flow (and unnecessary heat loss) above 165.

Cheers

 

[goosegunner]

Thanks, I will look into the termovar and the check valve. Once I get more details figured out I will get something drawn up with more detail. Just trying to make sure I am headed in the right direction with the basic layout and make sure this thing will actually work with my current setup.


gg

 

[Hunderliggur]

"Drawing must be way off, many views but little feedback…..."

IMHO - Your drawing is pretty close. With the comments above I think you have it. 1 1/2 will handle the 200K BTU suppliesd at decent flow rates. I am assuming your load <200K so 1 1/4 should handle that. Good luck.

 

[goosegunner]

"Drawing must be way off, many views but little feedback…..."

IMHO - Your drawing is pretty close. With the comments above I think you have it. 1 1/2 will handle the 200K BTU suppliesd at decent flow rates. I am assuming your load <200K so 1 1/4 should handle that. Good luck.

Thanks for the feedback.

I need to work in some type of thermal protection, not sure what yet.

My house is on 48K at 15 below zero. Will be adding DHW, and maybe a unit heater in garage but I will set one as a priority on the Taco so the load will easily be less than 200K.

My biggest load is summer pool heating. I was limited this year because of a combination of things.

Taylor OWB
140' of regular 1" underground
360K pool heat exchanger

It heated the pool but I had a 50 degree delta T.

I am hoping the Econoburn 200 will recover faster than the taylor
and 115' of true 1" logstor will provide more flow to the pool exchanger.
I can bypass exchanger a little to lower delta T if needed.


gg