EKO 40 - New Style is Here!!

[DMX_512]

Finally got the big beast into the basement.
I still have to get it off of the metal skid...oh boy. We had a limited amount of rigging and only a tractor with a bucket My friend / helper also had to get some things done today other than help me muscle this thing around.

Now on to the details.
This is apparently the "new" style. All black doors and fan shroud/cover, metallic gray body, and a green face where the controller is. The controller is the 2001u, The Literature says that it will allow 195 deg temps. right now it is not readily apparent how to remove the fan/blower cover in order to get to the primary / secondary adjustments. I will, of course, investigate further.

What have other EKO40 owners done with the "cooling loop" fittings?

 

[DMX_512]

And here is the controller

 

[Eric Johnson]

Nice.

I had to cut my cooling coil pipes off to get my boiler into the boiler room. Very few people do anything with them. You might want to cap them off just to protect the threads, or leave the plastic thread covers on in case you ever want to use it for something. That's the current controller. Very nice. I like the look of the new model. It has the hx cleaning handle, right?

 

[DMX_512]

Yes, the hx cleaning handle and the vent bypass handle are on the other side.
It came with a manual for the Ekoster(sp) controller..but alas the 2001u is what is installed.

 

[Eric Johnson]

I think you're ahead with the 2001U. I believe the Ekoster reads out in Centigrade and I doubt that the max temp is as high as 195, though that's just a guess.

The 2001U is solid. It would be even nicer if you could control the fan speed with a dial, instead of having to hit the menu every time. But it's a lot better than the controller it replaced, the 2001E, IMO.

 

[stee6043]

Cool! Looks like you got the same skid and the same controller but everything in between is different. Enjoy and have fun installing her!

 

[leaddog]

What have other EKO40 owners done with the "cooling loop" fittings?

I use mine for hot water to water the donkeys. They like warm water when it's -20*
My boiler is out by my barn and work shed and it's handy to have a source of hot water. I just piped water to it and have a ball valve so I can get the hot water. You have to control the valve to adj how hot you want.
leaddog

 

[DMX_512]

leaddog,
Where is your 2200 gals of storage located??

 

[leaddog]

leaddog,
Where is your 2200 gals of storage located??

My boiler is 100ft from my house and my propane storage is located on the end of my house standing upright in an insulated enclosure.
leaddog

 

[Medman]

The new design sure looks nice. The blower cover should just pull off - mounted on friction-fit studs like some of the other panels. Screws to take off the front panel will be behind the cover. The controller just pulls straight out - again, friction-fit. I capped the cooling loop fittings with 3/4 caps with holes drilled in them to vent any pressure buildup, just like the manual says to do. I have only had my boiler since September - too bad I didn't know about the redesign. Is the door seal any different, or still 1" rope set into the channel on the door?

Also, a lot of us have left the boiler on the skid, to give it that extra bit of height when loading and to have a fire barrier around/under the unit. That being said, I found the boiler 'wobbles' slightly on the skid and I had to shim it a lot to get it level, even with a level cement floor. The wobbling lessens once the boiler is connected to the pipes, but when gasifying hard the whole near boiler loop vibrates, the boiler rumbles and I feel like I'm in the engine room on a locomotive. I have wondered if I would lessen the vibration ifthe boiler was mounted on concrete piers instead.

 

[stee6043]

The new design sure looks nice. The blower cover should just pull off - mounted on friction-fit studs like some of the other panels. Screws to take off the front panel will be behind the cover. The controller just pulls straight out - again, friction-fit. I capped the cooling loop fittings with 3/4 caps with holes drilled in them to vent any pressure buildup, just like the manual says to do. I have only had my boiler since September - too bad I didn't know about the redesign. Is the door seal any different, or still 1" rope set into the channel on the door?

Also, a lot of us have left the boiler on the skid, to give it that extra bit of height when loading and to have a fire barrier around/under the unit. That being said, I found the boiler 'wobbles' slightly on the skid and I had to shim it a lot to get it level, even with a level cement floor. The wobbling lessens once the boiler is connected to the pipes, but when gasifying hard the whole near boiler loop vibrates, the boiler rumbles and I feel like I'm in the engine room on a locomotive. I have wondered if I would lessen the vibration ifthe boiler was mounted on concrete piers instead.

I removed my EKO from the skid and I can't say that I notice any kind of movement whatsoever. That skid ate up too much floor space for my situation...

 

[markpee]

DMX - when you get a chance, can you post some pics with the doors open and the fac cover off? I'm just curious to see what else has changed. Thanks!

 

[DMX_512]

I am going to take it off of the skid as soon as I figure out how. I am thinking about running pipe through the holes in the stand and using a couple of pallet jacks or floor jacks.

There is now a question on the homefront about putting this out on the back patio. Roughly 12 feet behind where it sits now and build a small shed. This raises freezing questions etc... the offset cost of not having to core drill/install 24ft of chimney would pay for the extra plumbing and shed.

Here are more photos

 

[88rxn/a]

so wait, you didnt ask for the 2001u controller?
i really like this unit and wonder of all the changes made to it?
i would much rather have the 2001u controller and not deal with the Centigrade.

 

[DMX_512]

I did not specify anything.
I ordered from Cozy and a few days after placing my order they called and asked if I wanted the "new style" gray, or the "old style" green.
I figured that the new style would be the way to go. I was told that the major difference was more insulation and a more user friendly bypass handle.

 

[stee6043]

I am going to take it off of the skid as soon as I figure out how. I am thinking about running pipe through the holes in the stand and using a couple of pallet jacks or floor jacks.

There is now a question on the homefront about putting this out on the back patio. Roughly 12 feet behind where it sits now and build a small shed. This raises freezing questions etc... the offset cost of not having to core drill/install 24ft of chimney would pay for the extra plumbing and shed.

Here are more photos

Looks like you got the same door seal as the existing units. You might want to throw some caulk on there now while you're not burning. Once you start heating with it you won't want to give it 24 hours to cure!

I'm extremely happy that my unit is inside in spite of having to do exactly what you mention above with a chimney. I built a fire this morning in my flip-flops with my cup of coffee in hand. My utility room is directly below my kitchen and when the EKO is really cranking it feels like I have in-floor heating in the kitchen. Love it - no heat lost to the outside...

 

[DMX_512]

The guys at Cozy Heat said that the door gaskets need to be oiled (something lite...like 3 in 1) and kept oiled ie; moist with oil all the time.
In your experience does this not work??