Its my understanding that the black nipples on the sides of the boiler are for the cooling coil. It is for over heat protection. I think you supply water to it on one side and run the other side to a drain or outside. My water supply comes from a spring 80' higher than my house so I have pressure at all times without a pump. Any ideas on how or if I should hook this up?
EKO cooling coil
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Eric Johnson
Mod Emeritus
I didn't. But you have the right idea about how it works. You can probably hook a zone valve up to the controller that will open the valve when the temp exceeds some setpoint.
I've never had a problem with my boiler overheating, but it's a good solution for cooling things off in a power outage, if you've got the water pressure. I think leaddog uses his to heat water for his livestock.
I've never had a problem with my boiler overheating, but it's a good solution for cooling things off in a power outage, if you've got the water pressure. I think leaddog uses his to heat water for his livestock.
Redox
Minister of Fire
80 feet of head will give you about 34.6 psi of pressure which should pop your relief valve if it is set at 30 PSI. This might cause more problems than it solves. I'm also not sure it is a good idea to hit an overheated boiler with cold water. I think there are better ways to do this. Those ideas will be along shortly...
Chris
Chris
Eric Johnson
Mod Emeritus
The coil is isolated from the pressure vessel, so there's no concern about external water pressure popping the pressure relief valve. It's basically a black iron DHW coil, as I understand it. So you're not introducing new water to the system.
BrownianHeatingTech
Minister of Fire
I think it would be a good idea. Honeywell makes a mechanical thermally-activated water valve. It's too early in the morning for me to remember the part number, but I know someone has mentioned it on here, so it may be posted before I get back with it later...
Joe
Joe
Redox
Minister of Fire
Oh! I didn't ralize that it had a separate heat exchanger already installed. Good idea on Orlan's part! I want one of those so bad...
What about a regular T&P;valve? They open around 210F and require no power?
Chris
What about a regular T&P;valve? They open around 210F and require no power?
Chris
I wonder? The flow through a regular T&P;valve may not provide enough cooling? Any thoughts on this anyone. The Honeywell TS 130 thermostatic valve is designed for such an application anyone know a source for these?
BrownianHeatingTech
Minister of Fire
Redox said:
If you installed that into the cooling coil, it would pop open, then the cooling water would hit it and make it close, then it would sit and re-heat the water in the heat exchanger and pop open again. Et cetera. So you would not get adequate flow.
WRboiler said:
There's the part number I was looking for.
Joe
Redox
Minister of Fire
Penn Johnson makes a temperature actuated version of the V46 water regulating valve that would work also, but IIRC, it's kinda pricey. Like $250 pricey. They are used to dilute hot process water before it goes down the sewer, among other things.
Chris
Chris
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