Hey guys new here just finishing pluming a eko 25 need help wiring the boiler.I have a oil fired hot water tank and radiate floor heat. My electrician wired hot water tank and radiate floor to run boiler pump but not to run ekoster 2 controller.Im alittle wiring impaired. need help ??
ekoster 2 wiring
- Thread starter mexs613
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Nofossil
Moderator Emeritus
mexs613 said:
Probably need a bit more info to figure this one out. Is there an existing oil boiler that provides heat when the EKO isn't running? What is the plumbing that connects the oil hot water tank and the EKO? I'm assuming that's a domestic hot water tank.....
Usually the EKO controller is turned on whenever there's a fire in the boiler, and it controls its own circulator. Are there other circulators?
A plumbing diagram would help, even if it's just scrawled on a napkin and scanned or photographed.
Hey nofossil the electrician wire the domestic hot water tank so that when thermostat call for heat it starts the radaite floor pump and its open 1 zone valve it also starts the pump on eko.he did not wire in the eko controller only the pump.My problem is I don't no how to wire this into the controller any suggestion. trying to send pics thank
Fred61
Minister of Fire
I assume the boiler is running. It came with an electrical cord with a standard 110 volt cord cap. Plug it in and you have power to the boiler. Right? I'm going to assume you want the circulator controlled by the exoster 2. The big problem is that the instruction manual is written in a combination of Polish/English. You will find three symbols on the rear of the controler that indicate a circulator but I found that only one switched the circulator. In order to find the pin that switched the circulator, I stood there with a multimeter until the boiler achieved the temperature to switch the circulator. I could hear it! You will see the connector labeled (PE PE PE x x L L L x N N N). Connect your hot wire to the CENTER (L) position and your neutral to any position labeled (N).
You might want to check that first in case yours is different than mine.
Before you do anything, run over to Radio Shack and get some fuses.
You might want to check that first in case yours is different than mine.
Before you do anything, run over to Radio Shack and get some fuses.
Eric Johnson
Mod Emeritus
The manual is a bit of a problem.
I got the new controller as an upgrade and hooked everything up, including my circ pump to the appropriate connectors (I thought). When I hit the power, I heard a "poof" and that was that. Since the fuse wasn't blown and the controller still had power and a display, I figured everything was OK. But it wouldn't turn on the fans when I hit the "start" button. After taking it apart and inspecting the boards, I noticed that a couple of the printed paths were blown out. I was pretty depressed. After looking at it for awhile, though, I noticed that the blown out sections could be repaired with a little soldering and a couple of wires. I took it to my local computer repair shop, and the kid did the work for $10. I hooked it back up and it works like a charm. I made other arrangements for the pump.
Moral of the story #1: Don't connect any external components to that controller unless you REALLY know what you're doing. Moral #2: If you violate #1, don't expect the fuse to protect you from your own ignorance.
I got the new controller as an upgrade and hooked everything up, including my circ pump to the appropriate connectors (I thought). When I hit the power, I heard a "poof" and that was that. Since the fuse wasn't blown and the controller still had power and a display, I figured everything was OK. But it wouldn't turn on the fans when I hit the "start" button. After taking it apart and inspecting the boards, I noticed that a couple of the printed paths were blown out. I was pretty depressed. After looking at it for awhile, though, I noticed that the blown out sections could be repaired with a little soldering and a couple of wires. I took it to my local computer repair shop, and the kid did the work for $10. I hooked it back up and it works like a charm. I made other arrangements for the pump.
Moral of the story #1: Don't connect any external components to that controller unless you REALLY know what you're doing. Moral #2: If you violate #1, don't expect the fuse to protect you from your own ignorance.
Hey eric hope you can read the pics I posted.I should be able to run all wiring from eko to my hotwater tank and radiate pump to.but my electrician does't under stand the function of the controller. trying to get trough wiring my eko any help will be a great help mexs613
Eric Johnson
Mod Emeritus
Fred61
Minister of Fire
Eric is right? Don't guess on your connections. The fuse will not protect the unit if it is wired to the wrong load, etc. This is why I spent so much time confirming which pin was the circulator switch. don't get me wrong, I didn't blow any fuses during this operation but I did on another occasion while trying to make a connection while the circuit was hot and got a spark. I felt pretty helpless with a firebox full of wood and no spare fuses. Thank you, Reynolds Wrap!
Eric,
Was your old controller an ecoster 2? When you re-installed your repaired "blown" controller had you lost your circulator circuit or did you just give up trying to locate it out of fear? I ask because of your statement that you made other arrangements for your circulator.
Eric,
Was your old controller an ecoster 2? When you re-installed your repaired "blown" controller had you lost your circulator circuit or did you just give up trying to locate it out of fear? I ask because of your statement that you made other arrangements for your circulator.
Eric Johnson
Mod Emeritus
My old controller was the one that came with the EKO 60 in 2007--the RK2001. It read out in centigrade, maxed out at 80 and didn't allow you to control the blower speed settings and other stuff. I did have my low-temp-return pump (Taco 007) connected directly to the controller. But all that did was run the pump when the controller was powered up, instead of shutting it off above 140, which is what I wanted it to do. But as a practical matter, having the pump run continuously worked fine. I was aiming to do the same thing with the new controller that I bought (RK2001UA), just for convenience, since the wire was sitting right there anyway. But I must have got the leads inserted wrong, because "poof."
When I got the controller fixed, I decided to leave well enough alone, and wired the pump directly into the boiler power circuit. So it runs continuously, but not through the controller.
I'm thinking about using the old controller to run that pump, which simply pumps water from the top of the boiler into the return. I think that I can put the probe at the return, wire the pump into one of the fan connections, and then dial it down to 140. This would presumably shut the pump off when the return gets above the setpoint. I could do the same with an aquastat, but it seems like a good way to use the old controller. I'm not sure whether or not the automatic modulation that the controller puts on the blowers at temps near the setpoint would damage the pump, however.
BTW, even though I've done minimal fooling around with the new controller, I seem to be getting longer, hotter burns. I suspect it has better blower modulation and control. Plus, I'm running at about 190, and for some reason I think that's more efficient than 175.
In doing a little research, I notice that the Ekoster 2 is different from what I have. I like the freeze-protection feature--it turns on the pump when the system temp goes below 4 degrees C. Hopefully your piping hasn't already frozen by that point. Is the Ekoster what the new EKOs are being shipped with these days? I thought it was the RK2001UA, but it's been awhile since I've seen a new EKO.
When I got the controller fixed, I decided to leave well enough alone, and wired the pump directly into the boiler power circuit. So it runs continuously, but not through the controller.
I'm thinking about using the old controller to run that pump, which simply pumps water from the top of the boiler into the return. I think that I can put the probe at the return, wire the pump into one of the fan connections, and then dial it down to 140. This would presumably shut the pump off when the return gets above the setpoint. I could do the same with an aquastat, but it seems like a good way to use the old controller. I'm not sure whether or not the automatic modulation that the controller puts on the blowers at temps near the setpoint would damage the pump, however.
BTW, even though I've done minimal fooling around with the new controller, I seem to be getting longer, hotter burns. I suspect it has better blower modulation and control. Plus, I'm running at about 190, and for some reason I think that's more efficient than 175.
In doing a little research, I notice that the Ekoster 2 is different from what I have. I like the freeze-protection feature--it turns on the pump when the system temp goes below 4 degrees C. Hopefully your piping hasn't already frozen by that point. Is the Ekoster what the new EKOs are being shipped with these days? I thought it was the RK2001UA, but it's been awhile since I've seen a new EKO.
Nofossil
Moderator Emeritus
This seems like a really bizarre system. Does your oil-fired DHW heater also heat the house by circulating potable water through the radiant zone? I'm missing something.
I also can't read the wiring picture. Can you blow it up a bit?
Thanks....
I also can't read the wiring picture. Can you blow it up a bit?
Thanks....
Fred61
Minister of Fire
I get the impression, after reading posts on this forum that the Ekoster 2 has been replaced with another but I do not know what the number is. My ekoster displays in *C but when talking to Mark over at AHONA in the early Fall he gave me the impression that I could get an upgrade that displayed in *F. I assumed that he was talking about a unit that was the same as the ekoster 2 but with the degree F scale. I could be wrong.
I picked up the Eko 25 this Spring after a home show in Keene N.H. so it may not be the latest design. I'll have to check the high limit. If I remember correctly, 80*C was the high limit
I picked up the Eko 25 this Spring after a home show in Keene N.H. so it may not be the latest design. I'll have to check the high limit. If I remember correctly, 80*C was the high limit
Fred61
Minister of Fire
Eric,
Just went back and re-read your post. What I did is wire the Ekoster 2 controller circulator switch to a Johnson controls A419 control which is sensing my storage temp. This allowed me to control the circ. on temp with the controller and control the circ. off temp. with the A419. There are many ways I could have done the same thing but the A419 was sitting there from another project.
Just went back and re-read your post. What I did is wire the Ekoster 2 controller circulator switch to a Johnson controls A419 control which is sensing my storage temp. This allowed me to control the circ. on temp with the controller and control the circ. off temp. with the A419. There are many ways I could have done the same thing but the A419 was sitting there from another project.
Eric Johnson
Mod Emeritus
Mark may be talking about the RK2001UA, which is designed for the U.S. market. It allows higher temps than most European codes permit, and it reads out in F.
The older RK2001 reads out in Centigrade and maxes out at 80C (around 175).
The new RK2001UA reads out in Fahrenheit and tops out at 195F.
Here's the manual for the 2001UA. According to New Horizon, that's what the EKOs are being shipped with.
http://www.newhorizoncorp.com/PDF/RK-2001UA-ENG1.pdf
I don't know anything about the Ekoster2, except what can be gleaned from this link:
http://www.eko-vimar.com.pl/2008/do_pobrania/ekoster2_a.pdf
The older RK2001 reads out in Centigrade and maxes out at 80C (around 175).
The new RK2001UA reads out in Fahrenheit and tops out at 195F.
Here's the manual for the 2001UA. According to New Horizon, that's what the EKOs are being shipped with.
http://www.newhorizoncorp.com/PDF/RK-2001UA-ENG1.pdf
I don't know anything about the Ekoster2, except what can be gleaned from this link:
http://www.eko-vimar.com.pl/2008/do_pobrania/ekoster2_a.pdf
Here is the new EKO manual with ekoster2 control
http://www.bgtherm.com/products/heating/cauldrons/solid_fuel/d/instrukcja_en.pdf
http://www.bgtherm.com/products/heating/cauldrons/solid_fuel/d/instrukcja_en.pdf
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