Englander 25-PFS - This 20 year old stove is the same but the new part has changed?

[Don2222]

Hello

Well, I am working on a 25-PFS with the 6" top flue near the front of the stove. Reminds me of a rhinoceros! LOL

Anyway, the Posative draft blower is dead, but both the left and right 140 CFM convection fans work great after removing a layer of dust off the dust screens!

So I though the directional tube on the original blower, that pulls burn air in from the bottom of the inside of the stove should be removed and put on the new blower?

This tube attached to the original draft blower goes straight down when the blower is mounted to the left side of the air tube going into the burn pot.

However the new blower does not have mounting holes. The new blower has a swing away cover! The swing away cover is mounted with a rivet. Should it be open or closed?

Not a big deal but a little confusing?

Any ideas? See yellow arrows in pics. New blower is clean and shinny. Original blower is Heavier and Dusty!
I can check with Englander in the AM also.

Click on pic to enlarge:

 

[smoke show]

How about a pic of that old stove.

 

[smoke show]

nevermind. found a pic here.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/need-help-with-a-wood-pellet-stove.27299/

 

[DexterDay]

That cover is a draft cover Don. Its pretty apparent that when that cover is closed, the blower gets NO air.

If... If that OAK tube came factory, then remove and simply bolt to the new blower. Because it sure does look like a Mod part to me. But that stove is pretty old.

But please remove the sliding cover on the new one. The owner doesn't need something that will cease all air from entering stove.

 

[smoke show]

oh yeah about the cover. I agree with Kenis.

 

[DexterDay]

oh yeah about the cover. I agree with Ken.

Fixed

 

[Don2222]

Hello

Well if I remove the cover by drilling out the rivet then there will be a hole there. The original tube does not have a bolt hole in that same spot.

 

[stoveguy2esw]

when we used to get those blowers the little covers were installed we just drilled the rivit and disposed of them

 

[imacman]

Hello

Well if I remove the cover by drilling out the rivet then there will be a hole there. The original tube does not have a bolt hole in that same spot.

If you have access to a rivet gun & rivets, just put a rivet back in the hole to seal it off. otherwise, use a blob of silicone.

As for the elbow that needs to be attached to the new blower, you'll need a set of taps to drill & tap the holes. Looks like a pretty simple job.

 

[Don2222]

Thanks Guys

 

[hoverfly]

Boy a lot of heat goes up the pipe. I wonder if you could use one of those Magic Heat™ Reclaimers.

 

[Don2222]

Boy a lot of heat goes up the pipe. I wonder if you could use one of those Magic Heat™ Reclaimers.

Maybe it could use one! Well I will see how it works when I put the new draft blower in.

 

[smoke show]

Use a magic heat only if you want to reduce your flue temps and cause creosote problems.

 

[stoveguy2esw]

i would not suggest it. the stove while it does dump some heat into the flue , it needs proper draft to operate and the heat dumped into the flue would be a good deal less than a typical woodstove would dump up there so reducing stack temps would possibly harm performance

 

[hoverfly]

If the fire burns hot and complete enough, there will be no creosote. Just make sure you seal all the pipe seams with high temp silicone since the it’s regular stove pipe. The main question is what its efficiency rating? Is it much lower than the modern pellet stove? Pellets were 100 dollars a ton back in 1995 so efficiency was not that important back then. I mean really the dam thing has a 6" dia flue!! I am looking at a whole lot of heat leaving up through the pipe when on high!

Use a magic heat only if you want to reduce your flue temps and cause creosote problems.

 

[hoverfly]

That’s something to keep in mind, but since the combustion is forced air I am thinking it's not going to be a major issue. Best way is to take flue temps, with and without the magic heat; the results should be quickly obvious so you could return the unit if it does not work out. Or could do things like controling the air flow through the exchanger?

i would not suggest it. the stove while it does dump some heat into the flue , it needs proper draft to operate and the heat dumped into the flue would be a good deal less than a typical woodstove would dump up there so reducing stack temps would possibly harm performance

 

[Don2222]

That’s something to keep in mind, but since the combustion is forced air I am thinking it's not going to be a major issue. Best way is to take flue temps, with and without the magic heat; the results should be quickly obvious so you could return the unit if it does not work out.

True and not much creosote in pellet ash. However, not my stove to play with.

Looks like a big FUNGAS growing in there to block the draft. LOL It may work a tad better now! See pics!

Anyway, As Imacman said the fix is a piece of cake! See pics. Just 2 - 5/32" holes in the right spot! Missed the squirrel cage by that much! LOL

Click to Enlarge!
How does it look Mike?

 

[hoverfly]

Bummer! However if the pipe needs 14 inches of clearance, I wonder?

True and not much creosote in pellet ash. However, not my stove to play with.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

True and not much creosote in pellet ash. However, not my stove to play with.

Looks like a big FUNGAS growing in there to block the draft. LOL It may work a tad better now! See pics!

Anyway, As Imacman said the fix is a piece of cake! See pics. Just 2 - 5/32" holes in the right spot! Missed the squirrel cage by that much! LOL

Click to Enlarge!
How does it look Mike?

Hey you found fluffy.