Englander 30-NC Operation Question

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

leeave96

Minister of Fire
Apr 22, 2010
1,113
Western VA
Quick question - how many of you folks with the Englander 30 load the stove up, get the thing blazing away and then damper all the way down for your long burn?

My present set-up is factory - dog house air not blocked-off. I gather that when you fully damper down, there is still unregulated primary air through the dog house and secondaries to keep the stove from becoming a smoke dragon.

Thanks!
Bill
 
leeave96 said:
Quick question - how many of you folks with the Englander 30 load the stove up, get the thing blazing away and then damper all the way down for your long burn?

My present set-up is factory - dog house air not blocked-off. I gather that when you fully damper down, there is still unregulated primary air through the dog house and secondaries to keep the stove from becoming a smoke dragon.

Thanks!
Bill


I don't own one, but that is the correct thinking. When the air controls are closed as far as the controls allow, EPA stoves do not completely eliminate air flow.
 
Once flames start filling the majority of the firebox I usually, turn it down so that the front edge to middle of the spring on the air control is at the edge of the ash lip. Then I come back when the flames are really rolling again and turn it down so that the outer tip of that spring is flush with the edge of the ash lip.

Depending the the weather or the load, I'll adjust that a tiny bit one way or the other. I almost never run the stove w/ the air control completely closed. But, you have have a stronger drafting system than mine and need to. Time will tell.

pen
 
pen said:
Once flames start filling the majority of the firebox I usually, turn it down so that the front edge to middle of the spring on the air control is at the edge of the ash lip. Then I come back when the flames are really rolling again and turn it down so that the outer tip of that spring is flush with the edge of the ash lip.

Depending the the weather or the load, I'll adjust that a tiny bit one way or the other. I almost never run the stove w/ the air control completely closed. But, you have have a stronger drafting system than mine and need to. Time will tell.

pen

Bill, I have been pretty much doing what pen does with the 30, and I have had really good results. Sometimes I can turn the air lower than other times, but I never close it completely.
Hope you are doing well with the 30.
 
LOVE LOVE LOVE my 30. I give a little and get A LOT. Very different from most other relationships in my life ;-P
 
Thanks everyone - still on the learning curve with this stove.

Bill
 
I would think every installation is a little different. If I left my spring even with the ash lip, I would be in an overfire situation. Normally about a 1/2"-3/4" out from full close.

I am veru intrested in the distance of the tip of the spring at full close to the end of the ash lip. And if they are all about the same distance from stove to stove.. Also have been thinking of attaching somethinh to the primary rod to have a way of measuring (like the numbers the Woodstock and BK guys have).
It would be nice if it was something simple with markings every 1/4"-1/2" and made out of simple supplies that all members could easily find. So that we had a better comparison.

I do it very similar to Pen also. Just the air is full open, for full flame, then 2nd stop is even with ash lip, 3rd and final resting place is 1/2" or so (when full closed, I pull it out a little and it seems to want to stop where I like it). That keeps the stove at 600-700*. After reading where someone said to use the ash lip, I tried it (weeks ago) and found that the flames were to big and the firebox was full.

The secondaries are about the only true flame when its set. Very little on the actual wood. Just in front of the doghouse is there flames. I have thought about the mod for that also and how much longer my burn times would be.

Very good question here... Looking forward to this thread and all the replies. I will measure my distance from spring end to ash lip today ( at full closed) when I get home.
 
DexterDay said:
I would think every installation is a little different. If I left my spring even with the ash lip, I would be in an overfire situation. Normally about a 1/2"-3/4" out from full close.

I am veru intrested in the distance of the tip of the spring at full close to the end of the ash lip. And if they are all about the same distance from stove to stove.. Also have been thinking of attaching somethinh to the primary rod to have a way of measuring (like the numbers the Woodstock and BK guys have).
It would be nice if it was something simple with markings every 1/4"-1/2" and made out of simple supplies that all members could easily find. So that we had a better comparison.

I do it very similar to Pen also. Just the air is full open, for full flame, then 2nd stop is even with ash lip, 3rd and final resting place is 1/2" or so (when full closed, I pull it out a little and it seems to want to stop where I like it). That keeps the stove at 600-700*. After reading where someone said to use the ash lip, I tried it (weeks ago) and found that the flames were to big and the firebox was full.

The secondaries are about the only true flame when its set. Very little on the actual wood. Just in front of the doghouse is there flames. I have thought about the mod for that also and how much longer my burn times would be.

Very good question here... Looking forward to this thread and all the replies. I will measure my distance from spring end to ash lip today ( at full closed) when I get home.

I took a Sharpie Metallic Silver permanent market and made 1/4,1/2 and 3/4 marks on the primary air rod. Simple to find exactly where she sits. The spring could be entirely different from stove to stove. My spring was in a plastic bag when I unpacked the stove, just gave it a twist on
 
I was wondering how far on the rod some people put the spring. I believe Mr Gamma just put it on with one turn. When we had the 13 though, that spring for some reason went pretty far on the rod. It required many turns or it would be loose. So I guess the spring lineup is just a guide. I try to watch how the fire is acting as opposed to where the spring lines up. Many times it is even with the ash lip but not always.
 
PapaDave said:
Gamma, just noticed that "Beulah" is now "Chief".
Waz up w/dat? Your 30's gonna get an inferiority complex or something. %-P

Hope its not of dem "Cross Dressers....."
 
4" from the end of spring to the base of stove, when fully closed. Then 8" from end of spring to the base of stove when fully opened. So there is 4" of travel from Open to Close.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.