Englander 30NC fails dollar test badly - what do I do ?
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Give a small description of your findings, it will help out alot more by the folks here with your stove.
gdk84 said:
i did the dollar test - slipped a dollar bill halfway into the door at top of window and locked the door shut.
The bill slid out easily.
Supposedly this means you are not tight enough and are leaking air at the gasket seal around the door.
How do I fix this on the 30NC ?
gdk84 said:
no - ill do it after this load burns out in AM before work
but I saw this test done in a BK King video and the guy only tested it in the middle of the top.
I assumed the same test is valid for my 30.
Check the rest of the door to see if it is this loose all the way around or just in a particular area. Operation and temps of your stove normal or are you getting shorter burns/ hotter stove or flue?
gdk84 said:
I haven't noticed anything different but Im supposing that loss of efficiency can occur w/out me seeing it
if your door handle were the hour hand on a clock, what time does it read when fully latched?
pen
pen
homebrewz
Minister of Fire
You know I went through about $10 in singles before I realized you have to do that with the stove cool.
OK, I'm joking.. it was more like $5.
Anyway, if your not sure you can check for leaks around the door with a lit punk/incense stick and see if it draws in the smoke.
OK, I'm joking.. it was more like $5.
Anyway, if your not sure you can check for leaks around the door with a lit punk/incense stick and see if it draws in the smoke.
Mrs. Krabappel
Minister of Fire
When the stove is cooled down, lay a straight edge, like a yard stick or something, on the four flat surfaces on the door opening on the front of the stove and see if they are flat. If they are, then do it to the door too.
5:30 seems a bit late in the day to me.
If you put some pressure on the handle does it turn right around? If so, the latch is too loose. If not, then BB has it.
pen
If you put some pressure on the handle does it turn right around? If so, the latch is too loose. If not, then BB has it.
pen
Thats about the same spot my Magnolia started to gap. It turned out to be the stove face itself was not flat. I fixed it pretty good with a new rope seal fatty as I could get in the door groove. Still when it got hot it tried to open up in the same spot. I'll admit I had er real hot several hundred times but I'm seriously thinking it wasn't all that good to start with. Just over time the seal flattens out naturally exposing an existing problem spot.
I ended up replacing the stove any how so problem gone.
I ended up replacing the stove any how so problem gone.
North of 60
Minister of Fire
FROM one of your 1st threads.
north of 60 - 06 March 2011 05:01 PM
Pictures tell me over fire or chimney fire has existed.
SmokeyCity
over fire LOL how about every day
I burn this thing at MAX unless Im drying out wood stacked beside it. Other than that it is loaded full and burning as hot as I can and still get 2ndary burn.
Well what did you find out?
north of 60 - 06 March 2011 05:01 PM
Pictures tell me over fire or chimney fire has existed.
SmokeyCity
over fire LOL how about every day
I burn this thing at MAX unless Im drying out wood stacked beside it. Other than that it is loaded full and burning as hot as I can and still get 2ndary burn.
Well what did you find out?
north of 60 said:
ah i have not checked the straightness of the front of the stove yet
waiting until im not burning anything in it so I can put a straightedge on it with the door open and do the same with the door
North of 60
Minister of Fire
Just take a metal straight edge. I did mine while it was hot. In fact I wanted to see if it changed when it got hot. If the door is cast and it isn't straight then it had to be made that way. Heat won't change cast iron.
North of 60
Minister of Fire
I think it depends on the nickle content. A skillet is more like cast steel isn't it. Pure cast shouldn't change. I work on antique tractors and those that have been through a fire show no cast damage. If it will bend cold than yes heat will affect. But if it will only break cold then I doubt fire will hurt.
since it took 12 seconds to do, I just ran the straight edge across my 30 (yes it's hot)
The mating surface for the gasket on the stove itself is perfectly flat all the way around.
I couldn't figure a good way to find the flatness of the inside of the door w/out removing the gasket. Putting the straight edge across the outside of the door mine actually bows in a bit in the top center. To me though, I think the casting may just be 1/32 thicker on the sides than the top as I have no symptoms of an air leak (dirty glass in spots, short burns, iffy secondary action, etc)
Also did the dollar bill test and mine pulls through the top center easier than anywhere else. I'm not going to mess with it because as I said, I have clean glass and good burn times and no reason to fix something that isn't broke.
I've gone back through this thread again and can't find why you think you have a gasket problem other than the dollar bill test?
pen
The mating surface for the gasket on the stove itself is perfectly flat all the way around.
I couldn't figure a good way to find the flatness of the inside of the door w/out removing the gasket. Putting the straight edge across the outside of the door mine actually bows in a bit in the top center. To me though, I think the casting may just be 1/32 thicker on the sides than the top as I have no symptoms of an air leak (dirty glass in spots, short burns, iffy secondary action, etc)
Also did the dollar bill test and mine pulls through the top center easier than anywhere else. I'm not going to mess with it because as I said, I have clean glass and good burn times and no reason to fix something that isn't broke.
I've gone back through this thread again and can't find why you think you have a gasket problem other than the dollar bill test?
pen
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