Enviro EF2 Question?
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MountainSean
Credo Quia Absurdum
The stove works for 15 minutes before it turns off on startup if you don't switch it to auto. With an EF2 you hit the start button and wait for a fire to start and switch it to Auto once the green light has come on. The Igniter itself should start up immediately though it can take a couple of minutes to reach it's top temperature and it should stay hot until 15 minutes has finished or you have switched the stove to auto.
MountainSean
Credo Quia Absurdum
It is from the Enviro tech manual
http://www.enviro.com/images/manuals-brochures/owners-manuals/C-12145 Instruction PELLET Service Manual.pdf
http://www.enviro.com/images/manuals-brochures/owners-manuals/C-12145 Instruction PELLET Service Manual.pdf
MountainSean said:
All I get is "Page Not Found" Does it work for you?
So I shorten it with the MakeTinyURL and now it works!!
http://tinyurl.com/43jw7ly
MountainSean
Credo Quia Absurdum
My link works for me and yours doesn't. Must be a browser cookie thing. The important thing is that you found the tech manual. It does assume you are decent at fixing things and have some stove knowledge being geared towards techs but it isn't hard to figure things out since it walks you right through it.
MountainSean said:
Thanks, I wish I found this manual sooner.
I just finished painting, cleaning the Convection Blower and the exhaust blower with a new gasket. Then Installed a new ignitor and changed the Ignitor Temperature Switch!!
Nice to have the manual, I will be looking at it in case I missed something. Thanks
Do you think the upgraded Stainless Steel Burn pot is worth the extra money?
http://woodheatstoves.com/ss-burn-pot-liner-standard-ef23winmer-p-9803.html
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MountainSean
Credo Quia Absurdum
I am not generally a fan of replacing anything before it needs to be replaced. But the Stainless steel burn pot is nice but if I was going to upgrade I might go with the high ash 50-587 instead.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
Don2222 said:
The forum's software mangles links with spaces in them if you let the forum do an autolink.
jtakeman
Minister of Fire
Don2222 said:
Also doesn't like % and 20 put together. ( ) I put % and 20 in between the ( ). I just doesn't show up and breaks hyperlinks to sites
By the way Don, The EF-2 and 3's can be upgraded to the digital controls down the road(if the dial a fire starts having issues). Simple to do and it gives stat ability plus hi/lo mode. Also will have variable blowers. But will set you back $350 to $500 clams.
charger1966
Member
My EF2 won't burn with the heat controls set lower then halfway. I have tried several different brands of pellets with the same results. I have cleaned the stove extensively by taking out all the foe brick and the insulating panels. Blew high pressure air through every port and it still will not burn below halfway. Any ideas out there? Thanks in advance, Lance
jtakeman
Minister of Fire
First EF2 guy- On the Ef2- auto/manual toggle needs to be in manual for startup- turn on power, comb motor will run, auger will rotate if vac achieved. Turn feed rate to desired setting. Wait for feed to start, ignition to occur. Conv blower cont to at least where feed rate dial is at. After ignition occurs, takes about 12-15 mins typically the green light above the man/auto toggle will light. This is letting you know POF occurred and acknowledged. The ignitor will turn off, via an ignition cutoff switch You can then go to the auto position with the toggle switch. This allows auto shutting off of the conv blower after you turn off feed rate dial (CCW till it clicks.) Unit stops feeding and will shutdown after cooldown. If man/auto toggle left in manual, stove will still ignite and run, but when you secure feed rate, comb and conv blowers will not secure automatically. Hope this helps adjust air shutter for proper flame but magnehelic gage for vacuum is best.
For EF2 that will not feed past 11AM and CCW, the dial is a not a linear scale, otherwise 9AM is not always low, 12 is mid burn, and 3PM is high. It is a relative potentiometer. If the stove achieves normal burns and heat output, then adjust it how you like to run it. If you replace the dial-a-fire, that will prob cure your not feeding below 11AM on the dial. I think the correct resistance readings for the dial a fire is in the manual, make sure power is off if you do a resistance check. Make sure the burn pot is in proper place, the ashpan housing is secure, the top baffle is properly affixed, and the air shutter is set right (for most EF2/EF3s, thats about 1-1.5 inches out (plus the black knob). Good luck, the EF2 and EF3 are wonderful stoves, right up there with the Quad 1200 CB, the Whitfield Advantage 2T.
Stovelark
Enviro EF3
Enviro Empress FPI
Enviro Kodiak 1700 wood FS
Go Enviro, great stoves for the money.
For EF2 that will not feed past 11AM and CCW, the dial is a not a linear scale, otherwise 9AM is not always low, 12 is mid burn, and 3PM is high. It is a relative potentiometer. If the stove achieves normal burns and heat output, then adjust it how you like to run it. If you replace the dial-a-fire, that will prob cure your not feeding below 11AM on the dial. I think the correct resistance readings for the dial a fire is in the manual, make sure power is off if you do a resistance check. Make sure the burn pot is in proper place, the ashpan housing is secure, the top baffle is properly affixed, and the air shutter is set right (for most EF2/EF3s, thats about 1-1.5 inches out (plus the black knob). Good luck, the EF2 and EF3 are wonderful stoves, right up there with the Quad 1200 CB, the Whitfield Advantage 2T.
Stovelark
Enviro EF3
Enviro Empress FPI
Enviro Kodiak 1700 wood FS
Go Enviro, great stoves for the money.
jtakeman
Minister of Fire
charger1966
Member
[/quote] For EF2 that will not feed past 11AM and CCW, the dial is a not a linear scale, otherwise 9AM is not always low, 12 is mid burn, and 3PM is high. It is a relative potentiometer. If the stove achieves normal burns and heat output, then adjust it how you like to run it. If you replace the dial-a-fire, that will prob cure your not feeding below 11AM on the dial. I think the correct resistance readings for the dial a fire is in the manual, make sure power is off if you do a resistance check. Make sure the burn pot is in proper place, the ashpan housing is secure, the top baffle is properly affixed, and the air shutter is set right (for most EF2/EF3s, thats about 1-1.5 inches out (plus the black knob). Good luck, the EF2 and EF3 are wonderful stoves, right up there with the Quad 1200 CB, the Whitfield Advantage 2T.
Stovelark
Enviro EF3
Enviro Empress FPI
Enviro Kodiak 1700 wood FS
Go Enviro, great stoves for the money.[/quote]
Hey Stovelark, Thanks for the great reply. I am in the process of getting a new Dial-a-fire switch. I did test the old one and it failed the resistance miserably. Again thanks for the help. Sorry it took so long to replay, I was in the hospital for a while.
Stovelark
Enviro EF3
Enviro Empress FPI
Enviro Kodiak 1700 wood FS
Go Enviro, great stoves for the money.[/quote]
Hey Stovelark, Thanks for the great reply. I am in the process of getting a new Dial-a-fire switch. I did test the old one and it failed the resistance miserably. Again thanks for the help. Sorry it took so long to replay, I was in the hospital for a while.
charger1966
Member
OK I have a new Dial a fire on order and will install it when I get, I'll keep you all posted with the results. Thanks
charger1966
Member
Hey Everyone, I have now installed the new Dial A Fire Switch and the damper is fully closed. The stove now stays lit with the dial turned to the lowest setting. Thank you everyone for the help. Comparing the old switch to the new one with my Multi Meter I can see the difference in the resistance.
Evi Morrison
New Member
- Dec 21, 2012
- 27
this seems like the ef2 forum. i just posted a thread for my convection blower is stuck in one spot but im not fully convinced its the fan control switch ive done the test that are in the manuel but still not ready to just start throwing parts is there any way i can test the control switch to know for sure?
Hi Evi- yeah if convection blower is running at one speed, its the rheostat. Not real expensive and pretty easy to replace.
Stovelark
Enviro EF3 pellet FS (running)
Enviro Empress FPI AC pellet (running)
Enviro Kodiak 1700 FS wood (taking the night off)
Stovelark
Enviro EF3 pellet FS (running)
Enviro Empress FPI AC pellet (running)
Enviro Kodiak 1700 FS wood (taking the night off)
Evi Morrison
New Member
- Dec 21, 2012
- 27
ok so just go ahead and replace it. ive tested what goes in and what comes out of the wires on the rheostat its 115-117 both ends. the manuel says black and purple wires mine are white and black just curious about that. also is there anyway my convection blower could be weak i am thinking its stuck on a setting but i wired 115 direct to it and it did not blow any faster. i was at a stove place yesterday and the convection fan out of there stove was really pumping some heat out. my fan seems to be at a low setting. just looking for some answers from people that have more experince with this. thanks
Hi Evi yes sounds like the rheostat. Ideally if you take your blower out, make a test cord and have another rheostat to add in line to it, (as stove techs like myself have) thats the best way to test it. I'm looking for smoothness with the motor removed and of course to clean it. Be careful if you do any wiring testing, 115V hurts... I know that too unfortunately.....
Stovelark
Stovelark
Evi Morrison
New Member
- Dec 21, 2012
- 27
Ok sounds good I hooked it up direct to an outlet to see if I would be getting any more kick out of the blower and it was the same as it is now. Curious if that's just the way the stove is or could I have a weak blower motor just not really kicking heat out. not like some stovse I have seen lately.
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