Enviro Windsor -- I replaced the ignitor, but she still won't light...

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

benjio

New Member
Nov 23, 2010
11
western Oregon
I've been lurking/reading for awhile now, but I gotta see if I can fix this. I've searched a bunch but haven't read anything that has lead me to a fix.

My ignitor failed so I ordered a new one. Well, that didn't fix the problem. I don't really mind using the fire gel stuff to light it but when I'm at work my wife has trouble with that sometimes. I looked in and can see that the ignitor is not heating up/turning red.

I don't know what it'd be besides a failure in the circuit board maybe??? Those are $250!!!! Yikes. It drives me nuts to pay someone to come out and fix something when I may be able to rectify it myself with a little work and a part or two if possible. Other than the failure to ignite when first turned on, the stove seems to work fine.


Can anyone lay some knowledge and experience on me here? I (and my wife) would really appreciate it.


Thanks, Benji
 
Welocome Benji,

Sorry you had to join because of stove issue's. But we are glad you joined us! On the control board the igniter has its own circuit and its possible when the igniter went south it took out the control boards relay that supplies power to the igniter. If you can solder it is replaceable, But not that easy to do.

It could also be possible the new igniter is not good, So it may need to be checked with an ohm meter. I would also ccheck the old igniter just in case the relay on the board was the problem all along.

If you are interested in trying to repair the board? I try to help you thru the process. The relay if you can find them are less than $10.00 plus shipping.
 
YES! Of course I will solder. I've never soldered on that board, but I've fixed a couple Traeger pellet BBQ's with worn out components on the board at the fire stations I work at. I've soldered lots of stuff over the last 20 years or so.

The stove is running right now cause it's 25 degrees in the willamette valley right now here in Oregon... So I can't dive into it this moment. If I can get some info I may be able to get to it friday.


Thanks a BUNCH! Looking forward to some learnin. :)


cheers, Benji
 
Check the old ignitor first....use an old lamp cord that still has the wall plug, connect it to the ignitor leads with appropriate insulation (electrical tape the connections) and plug it in...it should glow red within a minute or so. If that works, at least you know that's not the issue at all.
 
Benji,

I always start with SAFETY FIRST. Make sure you always unplug the stove while playing in there. No need to get zapped. So when your ready.

1st step is to use a meter and see if the igniter is getting power when you start the stove. Unplug the stove connect the meter to the igniter wires coming from the board and plug the stove in. Hit the on button then measure voltage. If no power is being output to the igniter its the relay on the board. I usually do this with no pellets in the stove or disconnect the feed auger motor wires. Don't forget to reconnect when done testing.


If it is the relay on the board. I will need a couple of digital pictures of the board(componet side) to trace things. Good clear close ups.

Unplug the stove and remove the board to take the pictures. I need some time to reseasrch things. So once you got some pictures you can reinstall the board and run the stove. Post the pictures or PM your email addy. Best not to post your email here. I will forward my email and look over the pistures.

The releys are small and have about 5 solder contacts to the board. Things you will need to get for the project. Solder wicking and electronic solder. A 25 to 40 watt iron with a skinny tip, Solder flux. And contact cleaner. You will also need to order the relay too!
 
I tested the leads which feed the ignitor and there was no voltage showing at all. I will try 'n get the ignitor out right now to test it (carefully) with an old "broken" extension cord.

Here's the board:

(used my iphone to take these cause its super easy to get them to photobucket. If you need higher res I can take more pics later with another camera; but it'll be awhile to get them posted... :) )

photo-22.jpg


photo-23.jpg


photo-21.jpg
 
Benji

You have a bad triac. See photo attached. I can't read the numbers off it so you will have to for me.
 

Attachments

  • photo-21.jpg
    photo-21.jpg
    107 KB · Views: 380
yah, that caught my eye first thing...


reads from the top down:

1835 (maybe it's T835, I can't tell)
600G (could possibly be 6000, but I'm pretty sure it's 600G)
MAR 643



eta: DAAAAAANG! You guys are fast!
 
I just put it back together and turned it on and it fired up on it's own... Go figure.

I still placed the order and will keep those parts. We'll see if it keeps running I guess; only time will tell.


I guess I'm glad I didn't order a $250 board, eh... I've been real tempted lately to try and get rid of this thing and buy a wood stove since the tax credit thing will help out. If I can keep this thing running like it's s'posed to I may just keep it.


Thank you SOOOOOO much for the help, and timely so. This internet age is truly amazing sometimes.


cheers, Benji
 
So the parts came in today. I'm ready to go to town on it... Can you provide any tips or specific instructions on the replacement of the little component in the board?


thanks, Benji
 
Sure benji,

Becareful no to put to much heat to the board. It does melt easy. I make this sound easy but it is tricky. Take your time.

Start with the legs on the triac. Use the solder wicking thread and remove as much solder as you can. Then with something sharp. Hold heat on the leg and try to lift one leg at a time. Once you have the legs lifted. Put heat to the pad area of the triac and try to slide the triac off the board.

With the wicking thread try to remove some of the solder on the area where the new triac will sit. Pre-tin the legs of the new triac and a little bit of the pad area. Align the new triac to the board and apply pressure to hold it in place. Apply heat to the pad to hold the triac in place. Solder the pad first and then the legs to the board.

Keep us posted!
 
Thanks, I need to get some of that thread before I start this.

by "apply heat to the pad" do you mean heat up the top of the triac (where the numbers/letters are) or apply heat to the opposite side of the board?


thanks, Benji
 
benjio said:
copy that. I just ordered a pair of them in case I break one.


thanks a HEAP! Benji

I would have ordered 10,000.... that price break is just too good to ignore!
 
benjio said:
Got it, thanks.


Man, I am seriously impressed and amazed at the speed of ya'll responding with helpful and useful info.


THANKS!!!

Actually we really don't even own pellet stoves... but things here in prison get pretty boring so we try to keep busy just giving advice on things we know nothing about....

Now back to the Nuclear Fusion board.... or is that fission... can never remember.
 
Well, I replaced the triac yesterday morning and she fired right up after that on her own. Same thing this morning. So I'm thinking you were right and saved me a heap of money and hassle on that. I've been lighting it with gel/lighter or a blowtorch now for over a year. Just think if I'd found this great resource earlier...

Anyways, you guys are seriously awesome. Much love for you here.


THANKS!!! Benji and family
 
benjio said:
Well, at least ya'll have microsoft paint in prison. :)

Huh, what's Microsoft Paint? Some of us don't use any Microsoft stuff at all. I guess that Jay didn't get the memo.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.