Evil Granberg File n Joint

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Mass. Wine Guy

Feeling the Heat
Nov 23, 2007
313
Northeastern Massachusetts
I ordered the Granberg File n Joint from Bailey's, but need to return it for the sake of my sanity (what's left of it). The thing is impossible to figure out. I spent over an hour trying. Are there any other sharpening devices that are easier?

Also, if I file my chain by hand with a basic file guide, how do you file all the cutter sides (eg: top, side, etc.)? I know how to file the rakers.

I've never felt so defeated by a piece of metal.
 
Wine Guy, About 40 years ago I purchased the same Granberg File 'n Guide. Never could get it set up correctly. It continues to sit in its original box on a shelf in my workshop.

The Pferd file guide shown in the Husqvarna link provided by Nixon is a good tool made by a reputable company. I would be afraid it might reduce the rakers too much. Rakers should be reduced as they wear and they do not wear as fast as the cutters.

After I placed the Granberg back in its box 40 years ago I taught myself to sharpen saw chain using the freehand method - correct size file firmly pounded into its wooden or plastic handle. Freehand sharpening has been fast, convenient, and very successful for me since then.

About six weeks ago I started using the Stihl file guide shown here: http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/acc_grindfiles.html
I compared the sharpening job it provided compared to the freehand method I used for years. Using the Stihl file guide is just as fast and convenient as freehand and it does provide a noticeably sharper cutter. The file guide seems to keep the correct angle better than freehand and it keeps the file in the correct dept relative to the cutter. It has been worth the ten dollars charged by my dealer. To me, the one drawback to the Stihl and similar file guides is that they do not allow the user to slightly twist the file as he is sharpening.

This is just another option for you to consider.

Best, John_M
 
Don't feel bad. I bought my father one of those contraptions and he could never get the hang of it either. Mind you, he could not file by hand either. I've since come to the conclusion that the skills needed to setup those contraptions is about the same skill set needed to hand file. I mean, you need to understand all the angles involved either way.

Study the anatomy of the chain and the cutter angles. That is all you need to know to properly hand file.
 
John_M said:
To me, the one drawback to the Stihl and similar file guides is that they do not allow the user to slightly twist the file as he is sharpening.
HUH! I started out with one of them back in the Carter administration and still have it around. Then Uncle Wayne turned me into a freehand 'twist the file to the points...cause the points do all the cutting guy'.
 
I like the stihl file guides its like free hand but you have your angle mark where you can see it and less chance of running your hands into the cutters.
 
savageactor7 said:
John_M said:
To me, the one drawback to the Stihl and similar file guides is that they do not allow the user to slightly twist the file as he is sharpening.
HUH! I started out with one of them back in the Carter administration and still have it around. Then Uncle Wayne turned me into a freehand 'twist the file to the points...cause the points do all the cutting guy'.
No need to twist the files I use. The factory puts a twist in the file so I won't have to.
 
LLigetfa, :) For years I used only the Oregon brand of file and I believe their files have always had a twist cut into the surface during manufacturing. I always liked to give the file an extra half twist with each stroke for four reasons: 1) I felt more comfortable "doing the twist"; 2) The file seemed to move more smoothly during the forward stroke; 3) I believed, perhaps erroneously, the slight twist helped clear the cuttings from the file; 4) I liked doing it that way.

As you and others are well aware, twisting or not twisting the file during the forward stroke is probably the least important of all the procedures one must perform correctly to achieve a properly sharpened saw chain.

Savageactor, I started filing freehand in about 1970 - probably about the time your Uncle Wayne gave you the advice to "... twist the file to the points...". Back then "twisting the file to the points" may have been one of the most commonly accepted procedures necessary for a really sharp chain. I don't know. My speculation would be the best freehand sharpeners at that time gave this advice to others who wanted to do their own sharpening. Perhaps that is how I learned the trick.

:) Best wishes and good health to all. John_M
 
I have one I purchased from Ebay, looks like an exact copy of the Granburg model.
I like it, It did take a little time to get proficient at using it, but with a bit of practice I think it is just as fast as free hand filing, but more accurate. Don't give up yet.
 

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Twisting is just showboating. There are enough things to keep straight and the additional dexterity required to maintain the angles and pressure while twisting does nothing but make a poor job out of what could be a good job. Go ahead and twist if you really think it helps. Keep a lucky rabbit's foot in your pocket too if that helps.

What really does help is to hold your tongue just so. %-P
 
John_M said:
LLigetfa, :) For years I used only the Oregon brand of file and I believe their files have always had a twist cut into the surface during manufacturing. I always liked to give the file an extra half twist with each stroke for four reasons: 1) I felt more comfortable "doing the twist"; 2) The file seemed to move more smoothly during the forward stroke; 3) I believed, perhaps erroneously, the slight twist helped clear the cuttings from the file; 4) I liked doing it that way.

As you and others are well aware, twisting or not twisting the file during the forward stroke is probably the least important of all the procedures one must perform correctly to achieve a properly sharpened saw chain.

Savageactor, I started filing freehand in about 1970 - probably about the time your Uncle Wayne gave you the advice to "... twist the file to the points...". Back then "twisting the file to the points" may have been one of the most commonly accepted procedures necessary for a really sharp chain. I don't know. My speculation would be the best freehand sharpeners at that time gave this advice to others who wanted to do their own sharpening. Perhaps that is how I learned the trick.

:) Best wishes and good health to all. John_M

John Thats a lot of hand file to even know your twisting or not twisting makes sense like a lot of things you may already be doing it and don't even realise it. Cant see any big advantage but little details its what makes a pro.
 
I tried using the Granberg file and to be honest I too found it to be less than useful . . . I may still try to get it to work since a fellow firefighter has one and said he gets a nice sharpening with it . . . but to tell the truth it seems to file really well one way . . . but when I attempt to file the other opposing teeth of the chain it barely does anything in terms of filing. For now it's mostly hand filing . . . although I'm not all that great at this skill either.
 
I do so so in hand filing , I decided to try one of the attachments that go on my dremmel tool. It works pretty good and is way faster than hand filing , think it cost about 13.00 .
 
I had the same experience with the Granberg.......just couldn't get it set up right. Drove me crazy. I now use a File-O-Plate (available from Bailey's) and have had very good luck with it. The Granberg is just collecting dust.
 
If the price is right, I'd buy someone's evil Granberg...
 
precaud said:
If the price is right, I'd buy someone's evil Granberg...

Too late , I gave mine to My BIL ,who in turn gave it to someone He doesn't like :)
 
I have a Granberg, my dad most have bought it, found it the other day. Used it a few times since, the saw cut ok afterwards so....
 
I have had one for ever and for the life of me I can not figure out why some people can not figure out how to run it, fairly straight forward IMHO.
 
Agreed, oldspark, it's a very precise tool and gives the best results to anything I've used. The only tricky thing is setting the height in the tooth, especially on chains with 10º tilt. The rest is a no-brainer.

Last week I got one of the Husky roller-type file guides to use with my Dolmar 5100. It's quick and easy to use but the saw definitely doesn't cut as fast after using it, compared to the Granberg. Yesterday I was out in the woods and it was immediately obvious that it lost that "hungry in the cut" feel. I do like the Husky guide for setting the rakers, though.
 
precaud said:
Agreed, oldspark, it's a very precise tool and gives the best results to anything I've used. The only tricky thing is setting the height in the tooth, especially on chains with 10º tilt. The rest is a no-brainer.

Last week I got one of the Husky roller-type file guides to use with my Dolmar 5100. It's quick and easy to use but the saw definitely doesn't cut as fast after using it, compared to the Granberg. Yesterday I was out in the woods and it was immediately obvious that it lost that "hungry in the cut" feel. I do like the Husky guide for setting the rakers, though.

Is there any chance that You ,or some others that have had success with the Granberg could make a video ,or pictorial of how to set it up and use it ? I gave up on mine ,as have others . It's quite possible that it was due to operator error .
 
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