Experienced wood cutters please explain "Kick Back"?

[BobUrban]

Regarding chainsaw use with a "Full Chisel" chain can someone explain kick back, what to expect, how to avoid(Safety tips) ect...

I am cutting with a Husky 350 and want to go with a more agressive chain but also want to remain safe and keep safety paramount. I have chaps and think I need to buy a full face helmet as well. Currently just wearing hearing and eye protection but need to upgrade my face and head protection.

For the record I am an iron worker and welder by trade and not a virgin to a chainsaw or power tools and the respect they command. I just have a deep, deep respect for chainsaws and feel preparation prior to opperation is best. I hae been cutting for years with safety chains so I am not a first time user - just never used a full chisel chain on my saw.

Thanks for any help

 

[smokinj]

If you have ever ran a cicular saw and felt that kick back when the lumbar got pinched its the same thing.

 

[kettensäge]

I actually feel safer using non-safety chain.
I have only experienced kick back a few times over many years of cutting. If you have any chainsaw experience (and it seems you do) you will be fine.

 

[turbocruiser]

I actually feel safer using non-safety chain.
I have only experienced kick back a few times over many years of cutting. If you have any chainsaw experience (and it seems you do) you will be fine.

I'm not arguing at all, just asking about what you wrote but why would you feel safer using non-safety chains?

 

[BobUrban]

Thanks everyone - I assumed what you have responded but just want to be safe.

 

[CTYank]

Kickback happens when moving chain contacts wood on the "upper quadrant" (the upper half of the the tip) or the chain gets pinched on the upper edge of the bar.

In the first case, with non-safety chain, the cutters penetrate the wood deeply with a reaction force that causes them to go deeper yet, propelling the bar (and saw) towards the operator, and kicking the tip up.

In the second case, the bar and saw are kicked backwards toward the operator. Neither is good, and can happen almost instantly.

To prevent kickback injury, keep your body parts out of the plane of the chain, keep chain sharp, test chain brake regularly, keep the upper quadrant from jamming itself into wood, especially smaller-diameter pieces where the chain can really dig in and get a grip.

Kickback will happen, when you least expect it, and you can suffer grievous (or mortal) injury in milliseconds. Always be prepared.

 

[mywaynow]

Something I feel helps is when you are cutting something larger than the bar length, use the forks on the front of the saw body to help hold the body in a consistent position. This will help the bar to follow a consistent radius and limit tip contact with uncut wood.

 

[mayhem]

Think if the chain as a car's tire or maybe a tnak tread. Its slipping against the road surface, which is how it cuts the wood. Imagine now that the chain suddently gets a perfect grip on the wood and instead of slipping on the wood, the cutters grab and the chain stops instantly. All the intertia and power output from the motor running at WOT is suddenly transferred to the bar instead of the chain and that thing is going to move that 12-15 lb saw in the opposite direction of the path the chain links that are grabbing were moving. The action happens basically without warning and is for all intents and purposes to the human brain and nervous system, INSTANTANEOUS. You have no time to even register that something is wrong, let alone do something about it...by the time you know you have a problem, the situation is already over.

Traditionally, kickback occurs when the upper half of the rounded nose of the chain is the part that grabs, it tosses the saw back and up, right at your head and right shoulder. Keep the tip out of the wood and you're going to significantly reduce your risk. The straight parts of the bar cam grab and kick too, but the risk of serious hard to you are orders of magnitude lower because the saw body will be moving linearly and likely the worst thing that'll happen is you're going to bang your knee with the back of the saw body.

Make sure your saw has a working intertial chainbrake (test it by running it at WOT and hit the brake handle while keeping on the throttle...thats what its designed to do...test the inertia activation by simply dropping the tip of the bar onto a log or stump from a foot or so (while holding the rear handle still so the saw pivots on the rear handle), when the tip its the stump and stops the intertia of the brake lever should pop it forward and activate the brake...you cna do this wiht the saw off or idling, do not do it at WOT since you'll be letting go of the top handle and losing the ability to control it. Know how to read your cuts and don't put yourself into a situation where kickback is likely to occur and you're going to be good. Proper PPE is also important. Good boots, and a logging helmet with a face shield are the minimum I like to cut with. Keep a firm 2 handed grip on both handles of the saw while the chain is moving and think about your stance when cutting so you can keep the center of your torso and head out of the line of fire. I'd rather get a couple dozen stitches in my right bicep or sholder than across the bridge of my nose.

Upgrading to a full chisel is a good move, you're going to be amazed at how much faster you cna go through some logs. The risk of kickback I think gets significantly greater as the chains dull, so keep it sharp.

 

[firefighterjake]

I honestly cannot remember any time I have had kickback . . . then again I think my Dad trained me pretty well . . . it is a rare thing for me to have the nose of the chainsaw bar tipped into the wood . . . usually I tend to work the wood closer to the engine side of the bar.

 

[Jags]

Well, kickback has been explained so I will throw in my thoughts.

In every cut, hold the saw like it wants to jump up and get you. If you do this, you will accomplish a few things. You will be braced and have proper stance, you will stay out of the plane of the chain, and will be conscious of what you are doing (not spacing out).

Have chain break set when repositioning for next cut and be very aware of a still moving chain when in the brush.

 

[Lumber-Jack]

Here is a demo of a guy deliberately inducing some kickback with his saw. Pretty tame really, but if you have never worked with a chainsaw before and get yourself in the wrong position at the wrong time it could inflict a nasty gash.
I think anybody who works with chainsaw should do what this guy is doing, deliberately inducing kickback in a controled manner, with full safety gear, so they can get a feel what kickback feels like, and understand the dynamics of of it.

 

[BobUrban]

Video is exactly what I assumed and I have felt it at times while cutting but have not used a Full Chisel chain so just getting prepared. Thank you all again for the responses and discriptions of what and how to practice safe sawing. Other than the helmet the duder in the vid is dressed like me when cutting(although I always have on leather gloves) I will buy a helmet when I pick up some new chains for sure.

 

[Jags]

... when I pick up some new chains for sure.

You won't be sorry. AND you will reserve the safety chain for dirty, questionable cutting. I get good performance from the Stihl and the woodland pro - if that matters to you.

 

[maple1]

Get yourself some saw boots too.

 

[mecreature]

You can feel kickback when you put the chain back into the cut sometimes.

 

[smokinj]

First saw lots of kick back but manageable once your use to it:
second saw very little kick back but very hard if it does:
Thrid saw no kick back or if it does its just a push.

 

[mayhem]

When that second saw cuts through that cable you're gonna feel a kick alright.