Fire Chief FC1500 install (replacing the FC 1000) New Stove Install

Mrpelletburner Posted By Mrpelletburner, Nov 4, 2018 at 8:44 PM

  1. maple1

    maple1
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    Yes, but. If that 3/8 hole means it is supplying proper amount of air when the chimney is pulling too much draft, it also means it would be supplying not enough air when the chimney is pulling the right amount of draft.

    These guys are way off base in their thinking. There is a reason fossil burners spec chimney dampers tuned to present certain chimney draft - efficient safe combustion in all conditions with no manual intervention.
     
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  2. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu
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    Maple speaks truth!
    Look at the OM on any one of the "premium" wood furnaces out there...they all say you MUST control the draft to XYZ level (usually 0-06") and most require a baro to be installed. Kuumas even come with one...
     
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  3. JRHAWK9

    JRHAWK9
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    I understand what you are saying, however, the results you are seeing are kinda scary. When it's 30/40 outside you should be able to have enough control over it so it doesn't burn it's entire load in 3-4 hours causing the house drastically overheat. The way it sits right now, you have zero control, besides the amount of wood you put in. A BD would help you gain some control. It's like having a car with on on/off switch for a throttle. It's either nothing or full throttle.

    I think you are burning "cleaner" because it is burning so hot. It's MUCH easier to get cleaner burns when you run things wide open.
     
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  4. Mrpelletburner

    Mrpelletburner
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    Side question.. how exact plumb does the baro have to be?
     
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  5. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu
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    Perfect. Plumb too...although the side to side level is probably more important.
    I came up with a nifty little tool to level them. A short piece of 2x4 with 3" or 4" legs attached to each side (legs to be EXACTLY the same length) the same width as the pivot pins on the baro door. The legs set on the pins and allow a level to be used...
     
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  6. JRHAWK9

    JRHAWK9
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    dead nuts level both horizontally and vertically.
     
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  7. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu
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    And just to be clear...the baro itself needs to be level...but the tee will follow the stove pipe angle, you rotate the baro in the tee to get level, then clamp it down.
     
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  8. maple1

    maple1
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    If it is a tiny bit out of level, that might be able to be compensated for in the weight adjustment. Depending which way it is out of level. You do want the flapper to close itself tightly when there is no draft pulling it shut though - so you don't want it out of level that way. Which I guess maybe technically wouldn't be levelness, rather plumbness. Hard to explain exactly. And you don't want it to hang up or catch in its motion - which out of level could also cause. Some dampers worse than others.
     
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  9. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu
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    I don't think there is a better baro out there than a Fields...and I've had problems with mine sticking when it was initially installed by eye instead of using a level...no problems after leveling though. (and it wasn't that far off)
     
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  10. maple1

    maple1
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    Ya that post was a bit risky - even with 'tiny' and 'might' in there. Sometimes those words get overlooked by some readers. I guess my point was if one is already installed and is a TINY bit out of level, you MIGHT be able to get it to work properly with some adjustment, rather than taking things all apart again & reinstalling. Although depending how it is out of whack, might not be a big deal anyway.
     
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  11. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu
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    No need to disassemble...just loosen the clamp and rotate as needed...or if the tee needs to be moved to adjust the plumb, just pull the 6 screws out (should be 3 in each side) rotate as needed, re-install the screws in a slightly different spot since the holes no longer line up.
     
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  12. Mrpelletburner

    Mrpelletburner
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    The crimped end goes into the non stove side right?
     
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  13. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu
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    No, the male end always goes toward the stove...that way if creosote runs down the inside of the pipe, it stays on the inside rather than running out the joint and causing a fire outside the pipe!
     
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  14. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu
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    Here's an idea...put the tee in, install the baro and try it...if you don't like it then you can always cover it with some heavy duty aluminum foil (I have done this in warmer weather when I didn't want the baro to open) or you can remove the baro and put a cap on the tee.
     
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  15. Mrpelletburner

    Mrpelletburner
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    I must have something wrong as the t-snout appears to be the same diameter as the female end of the baro tee. The rest of my piping is from Woodland Direct is is the premium pipe without a crimped end.
     
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  16. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu
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    Hmm, not familiar with that brand, can't say I've ran into that. Did you get this kit?
    https://www.supplyhouse.com/Field-Controls-6-RC-6-Draft-Regulator-for-Wood-Oil-or-Coal?utm_source=bingad&utm_medium=dsa&msclkid=8c95)8aa03a011320224735a4fdeafd9
    If so I'd maybe try to use the pipe adapter piece as a band clamp around the baro and the tee...or you could cut a 6" wide strip of sheet metal, x 24" long (or so) (maybe some left over ductwork metal?)
    Or you could always cut into the pipe and install it the way the kit instructions say to...although I like the tee install better...seems more "quality" to me, plus it gives you the option of capping it off like I mentioned above.
    Also, you could get a double male stove pipe adapter...can't remember what they are called exactly...crimped male on both ends, about 6" long...adapt it to your tee that way.
    EDIT: Drawband would work too...basically what you would be doing with the strip of 6x24 sheet metal 015drawbandblack.jpg
     
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  17. maple1

    maple1
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    Yes, you have a point there also.
     
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  18. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu
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    Does your tee have two "female" connections, the one on the side and on one end?
     
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  19. maple1

    maple1
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    Thinking a pic may help here - I can't quite figure out post 90.
     
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  20. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu
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    Guess its just called a male to male adapter...https://www.efireplacestore.com/cpf-73695.html
     
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  21. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu
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    3-2-1...
     
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  22. Mrpelletburner

    Mrpelletburner
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    The other day I had cut the excess pipe and added an inner sleeve. But the T for the baro still does not quite fit. Will have to look at it later.

    IMG_0505.jpg
     
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  23. brenndatomu

    brenndatomu
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    Why not install the tee in the 4' section of stove pipe?
     
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  24. Mrpelletburner

    Mrpelletburner
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    That section is telescoping stove pipe and to allow the stove pipe to be removed, that straight run can be collapsed ~3". Also, because of how that section is angled, it might be a pain to relevel each time the pipe is removed.

    Honestly, it is always a pain to remove the stove pipe as I have 2 adjustable 45-degree angles. Anyone that works with aligning up ductwork does not get paid enough.

    I will have to post a photo later to better illustrate.
     
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  25. maple1

    maple1
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    I know every setup is a bit different, but will you be needing to take your stack down? Much? I haven't had mine apart since I put my boiler in 6 years ago. Except to replace a rusty T. If I need to, I can slip a shop vac hose inside my pipe thru the baro flap and vacuum each way from that. I have a T on the back of my boiler I can also pop a cover off to clean ash out if needed.
     
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