I have Heatilator Caliber Series gas fireplace. This fireplace was installed when I purchased my home new 10 years ago. For the past two years I have had to turn the gas off to the fireplace after each use. Why, because I have been awakened in the morning or have come home from work with fire burning in the fireplace, while the wall switch is in the off position. Well, I used the fireplace a few nights ago and when I turned the wall switch off, I forgot to turn the gas off. Six o'clock this morning, I son woke up to the smell of the fireplace and it had been on for quite some time. The thought of my family flashed before my eyes. I need this thing fixed now and I don't know where to turn. I had someone come out when this initially started happening and was told we had to replace the wall switch, so we did and had the fireplace cleaned as well. Well, this didn't resolve the problem so we called the company back and was told what he thought may be the problem ($600 to fix), but that still may not be the problem. At this point, I lost all confidence in this company so I did not allow them to come back to my home. Does anyone have any ideas on what I can do or who I can turn to get this fixed? I am certain I need a professional, but I can't seem to find anyone in southern MD that service Heatilators. In the mean time, the gas to the fireplace stays off.
Fireplace Comes on While Wall Switch is Off
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That's really weird, something is not right at all. You need a qualified gas appliance mechanic. But why the concern about it being on? Is it overheating, or are there other problems? If it's functioning normally other than turning on when you intend it to be off, I wouldn't freak too much. Best of luck.
Gibbonboy, it does not overheat, but it does get pretty warm in the family room. I guess my concern is that, if I happen to be gone for an extended period of time, how hot could this thing really get? Hot enough to do some type of damage? I don't know. Thanks for responding though, I had been looking for fireplace technicians, maybe I'll start looking for a gas appliance mechanic.
If it was installed properly, it should be able to run indefinitely. That is assuming that you haven't placed items in the room too close to it.
-SF
-SF
I'd find a local gas company that services what they sell. They usually service all kinds of gas equipment, from outside BBQ's to commercial kitchen equipment and furnaces. I'd ask your gas supplier for a referral. As SF said, it shouldn't be any concern about overheating if it's properly installed.
thats what i was thinking.
my mom has on of those dimplex fireplaces w/remote and often it goes on and off via some other signal.
but hers is just electric, not a health issue.
my mom has on of those dimplex fireplaces w/remote and often it goes on and off via some other signal.
but hers is just electric, not a health issue.
My wife and I had this house built 10 years ago and we did not elect to pay for the remote control option, nor was a remote supplied. I could buy into the theory about a signal igniting the fireplace, but it happens when everyone is sleep or no one is home, no signals being transmitted. I am assuming the fireplace was instaled properly since it had worked flawlessly for the first 8 years. Also, a firend of mines mentioned it may be an electrical issue since I have no control of the wall switch when it ignites by itself. Do I need to find a gas technician and an electrician?
Is is an electronic ignition fireplace? If so it may be a fault in the terminal block etc. If it's standing pilot I would look at the switch circuit as the culprit. Possibly the valve but definatly check the switch wires first. From the sounds of it you'd be well served simply calling out a NFI gas tech or your local gas company.
It would be pretty impossible for a standing pilot to turn on with the wall switch off and no other controls hooked up to call for the burner to come on. I would say that what you have said it is electronic ignition so it could be the module. $600 is way to much to replace anything in that fireplace unless they are replacing the whole guts
If you get me the exact model number and tell me if it is electronic ignition or not I can think of some things to check or try. A "standing pilot" unit would have a pilot burning all the time and after you turned the gas off you would have to re-light it. Tell me... when you turn it on does it make a "thunk" sound followed by rapid clicking until it ignites?
In the wall switch, make sure they are switching the hot on the switch and not the neutral. It must be getting a 120v leg from somewhere if its electronic ignition and coming on by itself.
Ok, according to the owners manual I have a standing pilot light. Also, the model number is GCDC36 NAT.
Well, to do any troubleshooting we would need a PDF of the manual.
Taking a quick look at Heatilators web site and a manual (same series, but different) shows a non-standard type of pilot - intermittent, using 110 volts. This is a 100% different thing than the usual gas valves, most of which all work the same and are easy to troubleshoot.
But the more complicated 110-120 volt systems do have expensive controls and components. Heck if I know why these use these - maybe some building codes do not allow standing pilots any more.
From the Heatilator site:
"All Heatilator gas burning fireplaces are available with an energy-saving IntelliFire ignition system."
translated, that means a non-standard thingy which may have to be gotten from only them and replaced......
Only other thing to try first is to take the wiring to the switch out of the equation by (if possible) just dangling a temp switch off the unit and wiring it in - that is only, of course, if the switch leg is not the 110 v feed. But it is always good to eliminate everything else before you spend the big $$$.
Also, if possible see if Heatilator takes customer phone calls. They may have had a recall, upgrade or some other program...perhaps they are as concerned (or more) than you are!
Taking a quick look at Heatilators web site and a manual (same series, but different) shows a non-standard type of pilot - intermittent, using 110 volts. This is a 100% different thing than the usual gas valves, most of which all work the same and are easy to troubleshoot.
But the more complicated 110-120 volt systems do have expensive controls and components. Heck if I know why these use these - maybe some building codes do not allow standing pilots any more.
From the Heatilator site:
"All Heatilator gas burning fireplaces are available with an energy-saving IntelliFire ignition system."
translated, that means a non-standard thingy which may have to be gotten from only them and replaced......
Only other thing to try first is to take the wiring to the switch out of the equation by (if possible) just dangling a temp switch off the unit and wiring it in - that is only, of course, if the switch leg is not the 110 v feed. But it is always good to eliminate everything else before you spend the big $$$.
Also, if possible see if Heatilator takes customer phone calls. They may have had a recall, upgrade or some other program...perhaps they are as concerned (or more) than you are!
It is likely your fireplace switch wiring is only completing a circuit to an already energized gas valve via the standing pilot with a millivolt system. It sounds like you may have a short in the wiring somewhere completing the switch circuit. Many gas fireplaces also have a manual on/off switch inside the access panel-if you have one check that it is fully off. I agree $600 is high to correct your problem. If it is the main gas valve contol then it could be costly. You should have a professional gas tech/firplace tech troubleshoot your problem to insure safety.
Gasman, did you look at the manual for the similar models......looks like it may have 110 v fancy intermittent ignition. Do these still use millivolt for switching?
I'll have to study up....
I only sold a few units in the early days with this type of ignition (and one went bad!)......after that, I stayed with millivolts and pilots.
I'll have to study up....
I only sold a few units in the early days with this type of ignition (and one went bad!)......after that, I stayed with millivolts and pilots.
Craig-no I did not look at the manual, I was just going by one of MDX42's post: "Ok, according to the owners manual I have a standing pilot light. Also, the model number is GCDC36 NAT". If it does have the 110/120v intermittent ignition then the millivolt system would not apply.
They just recently started using the intellifire system within the last 4-5 years. Prior to that they used the stanard pilot safety system we're all familiar with. Like Gasman I was leaning towards a short in the switch wires. Since it's intermittent he might be well served just to pull new wires.
if it is running on a wall switch the most likely thing is that the thermostat wire has a break in it or a stapel nail threw it if it is on a remote it is the conetion between the reciver and the valve
If millivolt, I would agree and disconnect the wall switch wires and use either the one in the unit, or hook up a temp one on a short wire....then you will take the wiring and switch out of the loop.....if that works fine, you know the problem is less likely to be at the fireplace itself - although cleaning and adjusting pilot, etc. will get a little more juice coming out of the mv system...so that is always something worth doing. The more mv being sent to the thermostat wires, the less likely little things and wire length will screw it up.
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